Looking for more hp

SHIFTYBUSINESS said:

For sure a billet crank gear and oil pump gear, remove cats and go e85 then smaller supercharger pulley. The e85 will need a fuel system upgrade at about $1500-2000 depending on what parts. The gen 1 is really maxed at 650rwhp in my opinion.


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usafimj said:

Not sure what your budget is but billet crank/oil pump gears, long tube Headers and fuel upgrades.

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Mustang talk said:

Do longtube headers make much difference and what is the best longtube headers for a supercharged mustang

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Mustang talk said:

I have 2012 mustang gt with stage 3 roush supercharger. The car is bone stock except for the supercharger. I would like to get around 700 rwhp if it's possible without blowing up the engine. Can anyone give me some ideas on what I should do. I would like to get the most out of the car without blowing up the engine.

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5.0Black said:

I am assuming this is a 12 GT and not a Boss or something that comes with wider rubber in the rear from the factory. If you are 100% stock outside of the Roush Phase 3 kit contents then adding more power is not the way. Having a high hp/tq engine is cool, but you need a supporting cast of parts to help make use of that power. Your Mustang GT has a 245 or 255 low profile tire on its rear (pending the equipment). 700rwhp, or even the ~575rhwp is not something you want on an at best 255 low profile rear tire. If it was me I would do the below in the order written (or all at once if you can swing it) as opposed to tossing more power at your Mustang. The below will make your Mustang faster, drive better, not sacrifice ride quality and be safer to push to its limits.

1. Tires & Wheels: IMO this is the most important mod that you should do to a SC'd Mustang. There is a 0% chance that you aren't experiencing traction issues at your power level at a dig, slow roll...shoot even getting on it in 3rd gear could cause some spinning or some unsettled squirrely moments on your shift from 3rd to 4th. Traction issues will only get worse with the more power you add. You should be on a minimum of a 305 tire in the rear, and try to get some sidewall with the width. OEM wheels on your GT won't handle anything wider than a 255 safely so you will want wider wheels to accommodate a wider tire. I would recommend looking at an 11in wide rim.

Product recommendations: I personally run Michelin PS4S tires on Vorshlag Momo RF 20 wheels (10 front and 11 rear). Vorshlag is well respected in the S197 racing community and they have an undisclosed offset built into all of their wheels that truly works. No poking outside the wheel well or rubbing. For 11's in the rears you need an adjustable rear panhard bar (commonly found in suspension kits), 10's require nothing.

2. Suspension: There are a wide variety of suspension kits out there that will range from very OEM like to very aggressive (in terms of ride and looks). Many of these kits replace most everything under your car minus the UCA and LCA, which you should look into as well to help with the wheel hop you are most likely experiencing. Pick up an adjustable suspension kit and some control arms. You'll find you can get noticeable improvements in traction and handling without sacrificing hardly anything in ride.

Product recommendations: Suspension kit wise Ford Racing Adjustable Suspension kit is a great place to start. It lets you adjust the softness/harshness of your suspensions quickly and easily, which makes a difference in terms of ride quality as well as adjusting for better transfer under load. The drop is ~1 inch drop so you don't have to worry about bottoming out any more than stock really. For control arms I would look into BMR if you aren't too concerned with added NVH, if you are worried about NVH I would say the GT500 control arms are about as stiff as you can go without giving anything up in terms of NVH.

3. Clutch + Flywheel: Your clutch is already on its way to doing its best impression of Apollo Creed in Rocky IV. You should upgrade your clutch as it is not rated to handle your power level. Whenever you are doing clutch work it is recommended to get the matching lightweight flywheel and replace your TB.

Product recommendations: Exedy makes a great array of clutches as well as McLeod, but if you have money to spend you can't beat Mantic. If going Exedy please note that they do underrate their clutches in terms of tq pretty decently.

4. Tune: You didn't say if you were using Roush's calibrated phase 3 tune or not, but if you are, a tune from a very respectable tuner will go along way. These tuners can help your car drive better, become more powerful and will keep your tire size/other supporting mods in mind when writing your tune.

Product recommendations: AED, Lund, VMP, Brenspeed are all reputable companies.

Click to expand...

5.0Black said:

I am assuming this is a 12 GT and not a Boss or something that comes with wider rubber in the rear from the factory. If you are 100% stock outside of the Roush Phase 3 kit contents then adding more power is not the way. Having a high hp/tq engine is cool, but you need a supporting cast of parts to help make use of that power. Your Mustang GT has a 245 or 255 low profile tire on its rear (pending the equipment). 700rwhp, or even the ~575rhwp is not something you want on an at best 255 low profile rear tire. If it was me I would do the below in the order written (or all at once if you can swing it) as opposed to tossing more power at your Mustang. The below will make your Mustang faster, drive better, not sacrifice ride quality and be safer to push to its limits.

1. Tires & Wheels: IMO this is the most important mod that you should do to a SC'd Mustang. There is a 0% chance that you aren't experiencing traction issues at your power level at a dig, slow roll...shoot even getting on it in 3rd gear could cause some spinning or some unsettled squirrely moments on your shift from 3rd to 4th. Traction issues will only get worse with the more power you add. You should be on a minimum of a 305 tire in the rear, and try to get some sidewall with the width. OEM wheels on your GT won't handle anything wider than a 255 safely so you will want wider wheels to accommodate a wider tire. I would recommend looking at an 11in wide rim.

Product recommendations: I personally run Michelin PS4S tires on Vorshlag Momo RF 20 wheels (10 front and 11 rear). Vorshlag is well respected in the S197 racing community and they have an undisclosed offset built into all of their wheels that truly works. No poking outside the wheel well or rubbing. For 11's in the rears you need an adjustable rear panhard bar (commonly found in suspension kits), 10's require nothing.

2. Suspension: There are a wide variety of suspension kits out there that will range from very OEM like to very aggressive (in terms of ride and looks). Many of these kits replace most everything under your car minus the UCA and LCA, which you should look into as well to help with the wheel hop you are most likely experiencing. Pick up an adjustable suspension kit and some control arms. You'll find you can get noticeable improvements in traction and handling without sacrificing hardly anything in ride.

Product recommendations: Suspension kit wise Ford Racing Adjustable Suspension kit is a great place to start. It lets you adjust the softness/harshness of your suspensions quickly and easily, which makes a difference in terms of ride quality as well as adjusting for better transfer under load. The drop is ~1 inch drop so you don't have to worry about bottoming out any more than stock really. For control arms I would look into BMR if you aren't too concerned with added NVH, if you are worried about NVH I would say the GT500 control arms are about as stiff as you can go without giving anything up in terms of NVH.

3. Clutch + Flywheel: Your clutch is already on its way to doing its best impression of Apollo Creed in Rocky IV. You should upgrade your clutch as it is not rated to handle your power level. Whenever you are doing clutch work it is recommended to get the matching lightweight flywheel and replace your TB.

Product recommendations: Exedy makes a great array of clutches as well as McLeod, but if you have money to spend you can't beat Mantic. If going Exedy please note that they do underrate their clutches in terms of tq pretty decently.

4. Tune: You didn't say if you were using Roush's calibrated phase 3 tune or not, but if you are, a tune from a very respectable tuner will go along way. These tuners can help your car drive better, become more powerful and will keep your tire size/other supporting mods in mind when writing your tune.

Product recommendations: AED, Lund, VMP, Brenspeed are all reputable companies.

Click to expand...