When to Buy Car Trailer

Deceptive

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Is there any time during the year that trailer’s go on sale?

Looking for a 20’ open trailer. Would like brakes on both axle shut I guess one is fine. Yes, no? I’d like a winch shelf. And can I get a blocker/guard made later?


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rotor_powerd

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I've had several open trailers, my advice is definitely go 20' and 10k lb with as many flush mount D rings as they offer. Dual braking axles are a must. I've never seen a 'sale' on trailers but there are countless manufacturers out there in roughly the same price range. The big names Bri Mar, Big Tex, etc. will be more spendy but some of the more generic names are built well too.
 

oldstv

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If you can spend the money Featherlite will get you most of your money back when/should you decide to sell it and I agree with the above, 20' is a must with brakes on both.
Never really see "real sales" on trailers.
Beat on them they will move on the price.
 

Deceptive

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I've had several open trailers, my advice is definitely go 20' and 10k lb with as many flush mount D rings as they offer. Dual braking axles are a must. I've never seen a 'sale' on trailers but there are countless manufacturers out there in roughly the same price range. The big names Bri Mar, Big Tex, etc. will be more spendy but some of the more generic names are built well too.

Is 10k really needed?

I am towing with a 2105 EB F150 with Max tow.

Heaviest car on the trailer will be my 02 GT Convertible.

20’ is what I am set on.


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Blk91stang

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No, 10K isn't needed unless you need the extra capacity. Especially with an aluminum trailer which you gain vs. a steel trailer.

I bought one this summer, 18' for easier maneuverability and storage, aluminum frame, wood top, dual brakes, 7K, 15" steel wheels, 7' ramps, and stabilizer jacks. Do confirm the deck width (78-1/2" min for a car) and deck height is what you expect and want. I have a higher deck height so both my doors clear the fenders with ease and both are non removable and can support standing on no problem. Make sure the jack is set back so your tailgate doesn't hit it when it's down.

Mine also have stake pockets so I can (and have) build walls on it however I like to move more than just a car. I purchased 8 USA made stake pocket holder D rings to my spec and can tie down anything, anywhere on the trailer.

Tongue weight is important for stability and I don't know how most guys determine it but I got a hitch with a dial on it to show me the tongue weight so there's no question.

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DSG2003Mach1

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No, 10K isn't needed unless you need the extra capacity. Especially with an aluminum trailer which you gain vs. a steel trailer.

I bought one this summer, 18' for easier maneuverability and storage, aluminum frame, wood top, dual brakes, 7K, 15" steel wheels, 7' ramps, and stabilizer jacks. Do confirm the deck width (78-1/2" min for a car) and deck height is what you expect and want. I have a higher deck height so both my doors clear the fenders with ease and both are non removable and can support standing on no problem. Make sure the jack is set back so your tailgate doesn't hit it when it's down.

Mine also have stake pockets so I can (and have) build walls on it however I like to move more than just a car. I purchased 8 USA made stake pocket holder D rings to my spec and can tie down anything, anywhere on the trailer.

View attachment 1670844
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View attachment 1670846

the drings that drop in the stake pockets are cool, nice set up
 

Deceptive

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I am going to get a steel deck. I’d love to get aluminum but can not justify the doubles cost and I am not a fan of wood decks for car trailers. Just a preference thing.


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Corbic

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Drive to Georgia and buy one from the manufacturer.
Meh, my buddies dad drove from Michigan to Texas to buy a Toyhauler from a dealer.

This was cheaper, including gas, then driving 30 minutes to Elkhart Indiana where the Toyhauler was actually built and are available factory direct.
 

rotor_powerd

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Is 10k really needed?

I am towing with a 2105 EB F150 with Max tow.

Heaviest car on the trailer will be my 02 GT Convertible.

20’ is what I am set on.


“Cocaine pudding!”- Hunter Biden

I wouldn't buy another 7k trailer when 10k's don't really cost that much more. I rarely need to haul more than a car but I like having the ability to put a tractor or truck on there if it's needed.

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railroad

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My trailer was made by Lone Wolf. They may be close enough for you to consider.
A couple of things, that are not ideal,
My fenders are thin. I bought the trailer used and a blown tire put a crack in one of the fenders.

My ramps store under the trailer, OK, but they are short and create a steep ramp angle for lowered cars.

My trailer is a dove tail, and I added a winch.

It has brakes on 1 axle and has a 7000 lb gross wt.

Here is a link to their site.

Lone Wolf Trailer Company Welcome

I paid $1600 used with a winch in a box and an electric tongue jack not installed.

Might have an option on lug bolt pattern and match something in your use now.
 

john11gt

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No one ever says they wish they bought a smaller trailer.

buy the biggest you can afford.

People charge top dollar for used trailers, so buying new typically makes more sense.

I have a 7k 18’ dovetail with a wood deck. I added a 6k? Lb winch and it pulled my jeep and pulls my fox body up with no problems.
 

specracer

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A higher GVW trailer will have heavier duty axles, larger wheel bearings etc. A bearing working at 50% duty will last longer than a bearing at 75% +.

I have 2 enclosed trailers (24 and 44) both have front to back e track, allowing 3 point over the wheel tie downs. I would never consider anything else now (ive done axle straps, through the wheel etc)
 

VRYALT3R3D

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Featherlite, ATC and Trailex both make ultra light full aluminum trailers designed for low cars. I would think buying in the winter would be the best time because that is when demand is the lowest.

80-x-15-Trailex-Aluminum-Car-Hauler-5k_2_3.jpg


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fishinjeff

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Look up Hull trailers-manufactured in Iowa. You can price out the options on their website & see what you want. I bought a 20ft tilt with steel floor. Only mistake I made is the removable fenders-doors would have opened on my lowered cars if the handle to remove fender was not there.
 

dynasty_v6

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No, 10K isn't needed unless you need the extra capacity. Especially with an aluminum trailer which you gain vs. a steel trailer.

I bought one this summer, 18' for easier maneuverability and storage, aluminum frame, wood top, dual brakes, 7K, 15" steel wheels, 7' ramps, and stabilizer jacks. Do confirm the deck width (78-1/2" min for a car) and deck height is what you expect and want. I have a higher deck height so both my doors clear the fenders with ease and both are non removable and can support standing on no problem. Make sure the jack is set back so your tailgate doesn't hit it when it's down.

Mine also have stake pockets so I can (and have) build walls on it however I like to move more than just a car. I purchased 8 USA made stake pocket holder D rings to my spec and can tie down anything, anywhere on the trailer.

Tongue weight is important for stability and I don't know how most guys determine it but I got a hitch with a dial on it to show me the tongue weight so there's no question.

View attachment 1670844
View attachment 1670847
View attachment 1670848
View attachment 1670845
View attachment 1670846
That is excellent! Do you mind sharing what you paid?

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