I 100% understand. I'd love to talk with that person given the chance.
Coilover Suggestions
- Thread starter SVT_JP
- Start date
I 100% understand. I'd love to talk with that person given the chance.
I think road racers generally have the rear shock towers bead welded along the seams and also add a shock brace.
I had that done to mine just because...and dropped in a nice CHE brace, which I bolted in with through bolts, as opposed to the tack bolts the brace came with.
The drill holes lined up perfectly without hitting anything major.
My only problem with that brace is the fact that it uses self taping screws/bolts instead of bolting through the material. I do like the triangulation of the towers though.
Do you have pictures of the areas you welded on the towers by chance?
I might still have pics
You can bolt through and not hit anything.
I did that with mine.
That's good to know that you can bolt it through, I think I would like that much more then the self tapping bolts.
Looking back..I would bolt it and have it tack welded. Panzer tank approach. BUT I have already put my sound proofing in.
The bolt holes toward the back must be perfectly perpendicular to the surface, as they come close to the irs brackets...otherwise it is a bitch getting the washers and nuts in from the bottom..even when bringing the bolt threads in shallow at the first threading.... You may have to hog those holes out a bit to make some play for the bolts.
The CHE shock tower brace is the be-all-and-end-all for shock tower braces. And helps add more weight to the back.
Last edited:
Aside: the BMW 300 series E36 had the same problem with the rear shock towers ripping out.
The quality control statisticians got involved with cost control and limited the thickness of the metal and welds the engineers could use in that area.
This is the problem when total quality "power" control rules over design engineers.
Mathematicians don't get real life tolerances and needed slop...it is all just theory to them.
The quality control statisticians got involved with cost control and limited the thickness of the metal and welds the engineers could use in that area.
This is the problem when total quality "power" control rules over design engineers.
Mathematicians don't get real life tolerances and needed slop...it is all just theory to them.
Last edited:
I am probably going to install this brace. When I get my hands on it I'll decide then if I am going to bolt it all the way through or just weld it.
I have seen pictures of cracked and deformed BMW strut towers on the front but nothing regarding the rear. I haven't exactly searched for them either though.
You really need to dig and wire brush the sealant out of the seams around the shock towers, before tack welding the seams.
I don't have welding skills, so I bolted.
I am finally teaching HS Math now and the kids know that mentioning cars will derail me.
I tell them to take a welding class in HS while the tools, materials and education is free!!
Also I am just a Daily Driver (DD); so the whole thing was overkill.
It is never about need with our cars. It is only about want.
Please...Post up pics of the process,,the towers, the brace, etc.
It would make a great thread.
I have QA1 in front with Eibach springs in rear, but i am leaning toward redoing mine with KW V3. I like that fact that the rear is adjustable spring and not 1 piece CO in rear.
Curious what direction you went.
I have QA1 in front with Eibach springs in rear, but i am leaning toward redoing mine with KW V3. I like that fact that the rear is adjustable spring and not 1 piece CO in rear.
Curious what direction you went.
I have used Maximum Motorsports Bilstien coilovers and they were awesome! Their customer support was great and we build an amazing handling car. I will use them again on another project. We have had no issues when everything is installed correctly. (Amazing how that really is important)
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
I helped a buddy install a set of Viking coilovers when we did his K member. I have to say they're pretty nice. He ordered the double adjustable so he can tweak it a little. To be honest I'm wondering how much I could get for my MM set up to put towards a set of Vikings.
I have not pulled the trigger yet, probably gonna wait and see if there are any Holiday discounts. I am all but sure it will be the MM kit, based on this poll and their overall reputation and service when I have spoken to them about other things, it seems like a no brainer.
I love my mm kit
2004 Cobra 2.9 Whipple
2004 Cobra 2.9 Whipple
I went from H&R to front mm coil we kit and upgraded the rear to b8 and mechanic replaced my front bushings . I love the ride quality no bouncing and no scraping anymore handles great . But for some reason I stated noticing a slight vibration in the front at around 70-80 kmph the steering wheel vibrates up and down . Anyone know what this could be related to ? It never did that on springs and it’s only been a 1000 miles or so on them . How can I correct this or this something else?
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Probably get better response if you start a new thread.
To clarify - the steering wheel didn’t vibrate as soon as the coil overs went on, it started almost 1k miles later?
I’d check for signs of any wheel weights possibly coming off and double check all the new hardware is tight and something didn’t back off
Yea I never noticed before of any vibration in the steering wheel with the springs .
I will check the weights to make sure and anything else related . Tires are only two seasons old front and back . Only had that vibration when the OG tires were on for the first few months of owning so ..
I will check the weights to make sure and anything else related . Tires are only two seasons old front and back . Only had that vibration when the OG tires were on for the first few months of owning so ..
Users who are viewing this thread
