Dynoed my new engine today...

GNBRETT

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Amen to that couldn't agree more!

My main focus is street driving though, and nothing beats a tight, stock converter for the street experience if you have some power off idle. It's so responsive, it's addictive.

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11Sec_Lx

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Progress, awesome to see your new set up tuned and getting dialed in. Can't wait for you to get some track times with it.

Is it to early to look ahead at the VMP 3.1 TVS, haven't heard any details but I'd imagine you are on the short list for testers .

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Thank you. Me too. I've got some drivetrain upgrades to do, then it's on like Donkey Kong!

Not too early. It's been mentioned. I'm interested for sure.

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biminiLX

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Please don’t mention the 3.1, I’ve already sworn off any further blower swaps on my car. 4 blowers in 7500miles here John, how about you?
Honestly though, if you really drive on the street and have experienced 1100rwhp, I can’t see a bigger blower being needed :)
-J
 

slow poke

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Awesome numbers! I can't imagine how that thing pulls!! Oh, and this is the first I heard of a 3.1 TVS. I guess everyone on the street is now going to have 1200rwhp lmao
 

11Sec_Lx

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Hey Slow Poke. Yea, the 3.1 info is brand new and going to be a force.

Crazy times, huh?

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slow poke

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Hey Slow Poke. Yea, the 3.1 info is brand new and going to be a force.

Crazy times, huh?

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I'm wondering where the ceiling is going be and the when the race for more power is going to slow down. Don't take that as a complaint though!
 

68gtscode

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Thanks, and that's exactly what I was going for.

I feel like I will be in the 1.2x - 60' either way. And even then, it would be splitting hairs on how we move power/tq around. We were taking power out to achieve the 1.32, back when I was making 888 rwhp and ran the 8.94. I had a stock uca at the time and we didn't want to hurt it, making the rear end separate, so we set it up neutral. I have an uca now and it's setup to separate, I can't wait to test it out.

My main focus is street driving though, and nothing beats a tight, stock converter for the street experience if you have some power off idle. It's so responsive, it's addictive.

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Thanks for the feedback, very interesting. I wouldn't have guessed your 60' times would be similar with the stock converter, even with the Gen 3R. But, I can relate to the desire for a fun street experience. My last coyote made 840rw but had a Circle D converter that seemed a bit lazy driving around. I just got into a twin turbo car that makes over 400rw more than that car, but has an even looser converter... I hope I like it on the street! Anyhow, thanks again and congratulations again on the results!
 

biminiLX

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I'm wondering where the ceiling is going be and the when the race for more power is going to slow down. Don't take that as a complaint though!
I don’t see it stopping soon thank god, but chasing a number doesn’t make sense if you can’t use it.
I can hook well on the street but I’m giving all the credit to tall 315/50/17 MT ET Rs.
The reality is 95% of people can’t handle a 800rwhp car let alone 1000+
John and I have both been at this a while and I’m sure he’ll agree this power isn’t to be taken lightly and also limits your use of the car sometimes.
If I’m honest, even though each combo has advantages, I probably prefer a good turbo combo to drive around at lower boost and adjust to this power when desired.
I’m not complaining about 950rwtq on my 4000# car, but you gotta respect it.
And I love the 3.1 TVS idea, but I’ll believe it when I see it. Unless there’s OEM support of that rotor pack, you have to expect big $$$.
-J
 

vortecd

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Nice build! Will be looking forward to hear what it runs. You and Scott took the 5.0 to a new level when we all started with a 2.3 blowers 7 years ago
 

11Sec_Lx

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Please don’t mention the 3.1, I’ve already sworn off any further blower swaps on my car. 4 blowers in 7500miles here John, how about you?
Honestly though, if you really drive on the street and have experienced 1100rwhp, I can’t see a bigger blower being needed :)
-J
Yea, I've had the following:
Roush (Gen 1)
VMP Gen 2 (swapped my rotors into this case)
Then had the Gen 2 case, ported, along with the lower
VMP Gen 3
VMP Gen 3R
I would consider that five, as I saw gains with each.

Now, with 1101, I don't feel the need for more. It's absolute insanity. There is so much part throttle response, right off idle.

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11Sec_Lx

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I don’t see it stopping soon thank god, but chasing a number doesn’t make sense if you can’t use it.
I can hook well on the street but I’m giving all the credit to tall 315/50/17 MT ET Rs.
The reality is 95% of people can’t handle a 800rwhp car let alone 1000+
John and I have both been at this a while and I’m sure he’ll agree this power isn’t to be taken lightly and also limits your use of the car sometimes.
If I’m honest, even though each combo has advantages, I probably prefer a good turbo combo to drive around at lower boost and adjust to this power when desired.
I’m not complaining about 950rwtq on my 4000# car, but you gotta respect it.
And I love the 3.1 TVS idea, but I’ll believe it when I see it. Unless there’s OEM support of that rotor pack, you have to expect big $$$.
-J
I'm on 20" drag radials until spring, so that's my only point of reference, currently. No hook at wot until 3rd gear. I can plant a solid amount at part throttle though, which is a blast.

I agree with you J, it's a lot of responsibility. I have to be very careful with it and always respect it. I couldn't imagine what would happen if it got into the wrong hands.

The 3100 is absolutely happening. I'm sure you've seen/heard by now.

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11Sec_Lx

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I do wanna say, I'm at 21lbs of boost. My hg's are supposed to be good to 24-26. For multiple reasons, I'll be settling here and calling it a day, in regards to power.

I don't want to go off the cliff and lose reliability. If I do, you'll see me dial it back, next century, after I save up to do all of this again. Ha ha

So far, I'm saving for the following driveline upgrades next:

1) Billet planetary
2) 4" G-Force driveshaft (what Scott runs)


In addition, if I want to make track passes, the following:

1) 33 spline, gun drilled axles
2) 33 spline diff
3) 9" ends (equals rear end r & r <-- yuck), and that's *if* stock brakes and abs can be used with them, or the c clip eliminators for street use (Moser/Strange claim the tapered bearing version won't wear and leak on the street), stock brakes and abs are no problem with these.



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11Sec_Lx

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^ Cost mainly. I'm sure Scott/Kelly could get me squared away on suspension angles, ect.

What I have now, has been done so many times, and the ones who sweat the details are rewarded handsomely. As always, I'll make my lists, do my due diligence and give it my best effort. I prefer to not mark my own trail whenever possible.

I'm not trying to 1.1x in the 60' like Scott. I believe he just did it with the back tires! 6R80, leaving like a man, in first gear! I just want to drive it there and get a 1.29. Anything more is gravy.

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slow306stang

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I do wanna say, I'm at 21lbs of boost. My hg's are supposed to be good to 24-26. For multiple reasons, I'll be settling here and calling it a day, in regards to power.

I don't want to go off the cliff and lose reliability. If I do, you'll see me dial it back, next century, after I save up to do all of this again. Ha ha

So far, I'm saving for the following driveline upgrades next:

1) Billet planetary
2) 4" G-Force driveshaft (what Scott runs)


In addition, if I want to make track passes, the following:

1) 33 spline, gun drilled axles
2) 33 spline diff
3) 9" ends (equals rear end r & r <-- yuck), and that's *if* stock brakes and abs can be used with them, or the c clip eliminators for street use (Moser/Strange claim the tapered bearing version won't wear and leak on the street), stock brakes and abs are no problem with these.



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I shipped my 8.8 to Moser years ago and they built mine the same way you're looking at getting yours done.

33 spline wavetrac
33 spline axles with 1/2" studs (go with 5/8")
Welded tubes
9" ends
Abs rings
3.31 gears
Ford Racing girdle

I'm running stock brakes with ABS and have no issues.
 

11Sec_Lx

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Hey Slow306stang,

I was thinking about buying the parts from my local chassis shop, dropping off my diff and having them handle it, *if* I do 9" ends. If I do anything, I'll likely do 9" ends.

Yea, I've been thinking about 5/8" studs too. The only thing is if my Velgen wheels can be opened up, safely to accommodate the 5/8" studs.

If you don't mind me asking, do you recall what it cost you?

Thanks...

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68gtscode

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^ If it's helpful, I'm including the invoice from Power By The Hour for the rear in a car that I sold earlier this year. It's very similar to the build you guys are discussing (8.8 with 9" ends, 33 spline Wavetrac, etc.). Perhaps the parts list will be helpful, too.
 

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