Running like crap after tuner update!

SHIFTYBUSINESS

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I found the part number
I went the built engine route. Plenty of guys here that have done that swap. there are some things you will have to do with the gen 2 block with gen 1 heads so ask around to get details. Nothing crazy but needs to be done a certain way to work.

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BH Tuner

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been a while since i checked on the update,, wishing you the best of luck and i'm always around whenever you want an update on that tune ;)
 

Classicinjection

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So, after a little over a month a re-manufactured Ford long block track pack engine now resides in my engine bay. I went with the Ford reman engine mostly because of the 3yr unlimited mileage warranty that they provide. Doing the swap myself was a bit of a challenge not much different then the 302 I swapped in my 70 just a lot less room.
Initial start-up procedures.
- Check fluids
- I reset the computer back to the stock tune with the associated parts reinstalled
- Cranked it over for a few seconds till oil pressure came up
- Did another leak check, all good
- Connected fuel pump power got good pressure at the rail
-Went for a start
No start showed code P1602 I cleared the code and retried, still not starting the code has not come back. I haven't checked spark I don't have a tester, if i pull the coil and put a plug in there would I see a spark? Any concerns with damaging something doing it that way?
Should I put the performance tune back in and give it a shot, in reading the paperwork from the last engine swap at the dealer it need a ECU re-flash to get it running. Take it up to the dealer?
 

Riddick

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If you pull a coil with a spark plug in it you should see a spark as long as you ground it. Best way to do this is to place the electrode right next to a grounded bolt, as you're cranking you should see it spark.

You should not need a reflash unless you put in a new ECU. If you are using the same ECU as before it should work fine, its married to the car not the engine.

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Riddick

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The code you are throwing is for ECU low voltage. Obviously, make sure your battery is fully charged. Also, make sure you check all of your body grounds if you have one off It can throw these types of codes.

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Classicinjection

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If you pull a coil with a spark plug in it you should see a spark as long as you ground it. Best way to do this is to place the electrode right next to a grounded bolt, as you're cranking you should see it spark.

You should not need a reflash unless you put in a new ECU. If you are using the same ECU as before it should work fine, its married to the car not the engine.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Thanks, that is how I'm used to doing it on non-computer controlled cars, but the electronics seem pretty sensitive on these cars and i didn't want to damage anything
 

Classicinjection

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The code you are throwing is for ECU low voltage. Obviously, make sure your battery is fully charged. Also, make sure you check all of your body grounds if you have one off It can throw these types of codes.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'm going to put a battery charger set a 2amps on and charge for a few hours. I've checked the 2 grounds I pulled, the first was on the hood cowl and the second was where the motor mount bolts on to the engine both are tight.
 

Classicinjection

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I have no spark to the plugs. I went through the wiring again to make sure i didn't miss any of the connectors there were all good and they are almost impossible to mix up the way they fit on the harness. The sensors where swapped over from my old engine one at a time.
 

Classicinjection

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Attention to detail, attention to detail, or pay the consequences! I had to pull the motor back out put the crank wheel on. Mannnnny hours later the motor is back in and car started right up, it's crazy how quiet it is with the stock tune and air box back on. i still have the miss issues above 4k that goes away below 3k or so far. I've moved around the coils and the injectors new crank sensor, still getting a missing code on #8 and a random miss fire code. There are several TSB out there but they all state no driving issues unfortunately I have driving issues. I dropped it off at the dealer this morning its being elevated to a master tech tomorrow everyone else is baffled.
 

crjackson

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I’m sure you did this already, but just throwing it out there in case of a brain-fart (I have them all the time)...

Did you run through the Crank Relearn procedure after this last adventure with the sensor/tone wheel?
 

Classicinjection

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crjackson yep did the crank relearn , it was a little nerve racking holding the fresh engine at 3200rpm then it started getting hot... I ended up buying one of those vacuum filling attachments for the coolant I've never had such a problem burping a car before. Next try the relearn worked.
The car is still the dealer, they called the other morning and said there are some TSB they want to check on in regards to the crank sensor, I said yeah I told you about those the day I dropped it off, then he started getting rude. Tried to tell me the 91 octane tune was still on the car even though i returned it to stock. The tune in question had the idle set higher then stock which would have been pretty noticeable, if it would run right at all with the stock box instead of the JLT CAI.
From what I've read about the diagnostic system Ford has it seems that this should have been a easy fix, I guess not. Either the spark is falling off at higher rpms or the fuel is and since its limited to just 1 cylinder and same thing happened on 2 different engines to me it has to be the ECU or a wiring harness issue.
 

Classicinjection

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So the issue with my car has been elevated to the Ford engineers, who have sent back a list of things for the technicians to do. I guess will see if the engineers have more insight then the local techs.
 

Classicinjection

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Closing out this post. The engine is up and running it turned out to be a clogged Cat on that bank. There were never any codes for the Catalytic Convertor and when I asked the dealer to check the cat after former Ford tech recommend it, they said it couldn't be that and wanted to open up the engine. The first engine had more issue then just the Cat, the amount of oil and the extremely low compression in that cylinder showed that the engine was on the way out either way.
I filed a FTC complaint against Ford in regards to the their policy on tuners voiding drive train warranties on a car. Why because I never had the tuner on the new engine an that the car history will show that the warranty was void for a tuner, forever. If you buy my car and have the dealer install a new transmission and it breaks then they have case to void your warranty. If you thinks they have to prove an aftermarket part caused the damage to void you warranty you're wrong, unless you have deep pockets and a good lawyer or a maybe a better dealership.

I have GT500 axle backs about to go on, JLT catch can and after another 500 mile the JLT CIA and tune back on.

Thanks for all the input and trouble shooting tips that everybody provided.
 
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CobraBob

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Wow, so it was due to a clogged cat. So....was there really a need to buy the "re-manufactured Ford long block track pack engine"?
 

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