Very interesting. Does anyone make a bracket kit? Also what size are the pistons?
Installing ATS Brembos on the Cobra.
- Thread starter GodStang
- Start date
Very interesting. Does anyone make a bracket kit? Also what size are the pistons?
I’ve been informed my insert kit works with these as well
Am I thinking of different brakes than yourself and Mustang5L5? I thought he was referring to stock gt brakes? I thought those don't use inserts?
Anyone see this kit, and know what they use for parts?
1994-2004 Mustang, Cobra,V6 Brembo Big brake package | eBay
1994-2004 Mustang, Cobra,V6 Brembo Big brake package | eBay
I installed both the ATS kit and the 43s at the same time a few months back right before I hurt my motor. After the break in, I really noticed the stopping power increase and don’t feel like they fade as much coming down from highway speeds. More responsive and not enough peddle feel change to necessitate mods to the MC in my opinion. Felt just as steady on my peddle and not noticeable as my braking ability wasn’t hindered by it. Never did I “have” to push harder than what I thought necessary to do the job.
The only thing is it does look like the rear rotors are wearing slightly more than the front but could be how it’s supposed to work/look? I did a couple hard stops to verify everything was working the way I thought it should but can see the wear pattern on the back but the front not as much? I checked to verify the fronts are braking and fronts were toasty after the tests. They worked forsure but still leaves me to wonder. Maybe someone with both can weigh in or add a photo too?
They definitely work well though and I think godstang said it earlier, it feels like the oem cobra brakes were having just a slightly difficult time stopping with the weight and especially with some heat in them. I heard about brake fade but didn’t really understand it until the first few drives. I learned real quick what it after a pull or two. These feel much more reliable in that sense. I have slammed to test and these worked great for me. Much more confident with them and have no problem so far with that as of yet. I did do the stainless lines and flushed the entire system.
Once my new motor is done I will proceed with the tests. Like it was mentioned before also, a real buying factor for me and the “ATS/43s” pads and rotors is that they will be around for quite some time to come I’m betting.
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The only thing is it does look like the rear rotors are wearing slightly more than the front but could be how it’s supposed to work/look? I did a couple hard stops to verify everything was working the way I thought it should but can see the wear pattern on the back but the front not as much? I checked to verify the fronts are braking and fronts were toasty after the tests. They worked forsure but still leaves me to wonder. Maybe someone with both can weigh in or add a photo too?
They definitely work well though and I think godstang said it earlier, it feels like the oem cobra brakes were having just a slightly difficult time stopping with the weight and especially with some heat in them. I heard about brake fade but didn’t really understand it until the first few drives. I learned real quick what it after a pull or two. These feel much more reliable in that sense. I have slammed to test and these worked great for me. Much more confident with them and have no problem so far with that as of yet. I did do the stainless lines and flushed the entire system.
Once my new motor is done I will proceed with the tests. Like it was mentioned before also, a real buying factor for me and the “ATS/43s” pads and rotors is that they will be around for quite some time to come I’m betting.
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I was referring to using the ATS brembos with the 11-14 13.25" rotor and the inserts. With the cobra 13" rotor, there's maybe 1mm of pad overhang, so the 13.25" rotor would take care of that. I just believe the offset is slightly different. 0.100 vs 0.075"
So the proposed front setup would be:
ATS Brembo w/inserts
11-14 non-Brembo 13.25" rotor
0.100" spacer (or mill the calipers down that much)
I haven't verified this yet
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Those are the ATS brembos. IIRC, this gent was selling this "bolt-on" kit well before the offset inserts were available. I think there were issues with the kit, but not sure.
Do not buy from that guy...it is way way over priced. He posted that on facebook and got hammered for the price. And from what I remember he just spray paints the caliper. The “spacer” method he mentions is in my opinion a much better method. It also brings the caliper closer to the spindle and you don’t have to drill your spindle holes out. The spacer is less than 1/8(I didn’t measure it).
Buy these: Cadillac 4 Piston Brembo Front Set Brake Calipers Factory Pin Kit and Brake Pads | eBay
And contact S&S engineering for the adapter kit:
my overall price was $441.xx(I didn’t powder coat/paint mine, I kept the charcoal color and removed the cadillac logo w/B17).
$243.xx for calipers including tax
$175 for the S&S adapter kit.
$13.xx for 2 dorman 14100 banjo bolts
+crush washers if you need em(get the 16mm OD/10mm ID, 1mm thick kind).
I already have the J&M stainless hoses, they are like oem and are $59 on LMR and they fit the ats calipers.
@Liquidsnake what is B17?
@Liquidsnake after searching, did you used benco B17 or B17e?
I was thinking about this today and realized you could always split the difference and mil the calipers .050 and run a .050 spacer as well.
I thought that as well. My calipers are already milled down 0.075". They are also painted, so I don't want to chuck them up in the mill again. I could just run a 0.025" spacer and call it a day. I have access to a laser cutter, so it could be done.
I was going to order a rotor to do my usual in-depth photo review and such, but I've got a bunch of stuff going on at the moment.
So I ponied up the $15 and had MM review my combo. I'm doing a hydroboost conversion on my Fox, so they offer a service to take a look at your setup for brake bias and MC selection. I had already done my own calcs, but wanted someone to double check as being an engineer by trade, I like to analyze and then over analyze a system before use.
Most of the response is tailored to my vehicle, which considering this is a terminator forum, doesn't apply. Long story short, the ATS/43mm combo had acceptable bias on my Fox hatch. Hard for me to correlate that to a terminator because vehicle weight on the front and rear axle make a difference in this calculation. Apparently my own calcs did not take this into consideration so my numbers were off here.
What is relevant to others here is the MC selection. I'll paraphrase a bit:
Using a stock 99-04 Cobra brake system as a baseline, changing to the ATS/43mm setup without any MC/Booster changes would result in a pedal that is ~14.5% softer than stock feel (with a longer throw). Changing to the Baer Remaster SN95 hydroboost setup (that $400 MC linked earlier) would result in a pedal that is ~2% softer.
Most of the response is tailored to my vehicle, which considering this is a terminator forum, doesn't apply. Long story short, the ATS/43mm combo had acceptable bias on my Fox hatch. Hard for me to correlate that to a terminator because vehicle weight on the front and rear axle make a difference in this calculation. Apparently my own calcs did not take this into consideration so my numbers were off here.
What is relevant to others here is the MC selection. I'll paraphrase a bit:
Using a stock 99-04 Cobra brake system as a baseline, changing to the ATS/43mm setup without any MC/Booster changes would result in a pedal that is ~14.5% softer than stock feel (with a longer throw). Changing to the Baer Remaster SN95 hydroboost setup (that $400 MC linked earlier) would result in a pedal that is ~2% softer.
Thanks for posting up your experience with this setup. It puts guys like myself closer to pulling the trigger on the setup.
Can you post a picture of your rear rotors? I am curious as to how they would be wearing more than the fronts. Are you seeing rotor deposits or is there a genuine ridge on the rotor?
My rears have about 10k on them and there is a very light ridge on the outboard edge of the rotor for example. These are stock cobra brakes on my IRS btw.
Double post
I've been looking at those Baer MC. They look very nice, I'm surprised I don't see many people using them.
I'm not even sure what one would be a direct bolt on? Many different port sizes.
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From what I can tell they are not a direct bolt on. It looks like you will have to fab up the 2 lines that connect the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. Luckily they are short lines so they shouldn't be that hard or expensive.
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I believe this one would be the MC to use on a 99-04. FItting ports on the right side. They are 3/8 inverted flare, so you would need to remake the two lines down to the combo valve.
Black, Right Port, 1.125" (1-1/8"), SN95 (99-04) Hydroboost
99-04 uses 2 different MC depending on traction control or not. The T/C MX uses two different size fittings (12mm and 10mm), and the non-TC MC uses the same size 10mm fitting.
Here's a 12mm bubble to 3/8" inverted adapter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-262012
I can't find a 10mm bubble to 3/8" inverted adapter, but here's a 10mm to 12mm adapter. Boy that would be ugly with 2 adapters (or any adapters)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-267000
Black, Right Port, 1.125" (1-1/8"), SN95 (99-04) Hydroboost
99-04 uses 2 different MC depending on traction control or not. The T/C MX uses two different size fittings (12mm and 10mm), and the non-TC MC uses the same size 10mm fitting.
Here's a 12mm bubble to 3/8" inverted adapter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-262012
I can't find a 10mm bubble to 3/8" inverted adapter, but here's a 10mm to 12mm adapter. Boy that would be ugly with 2 adapters (or any adapters)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-267000
I dont understand why you would need adapters if you are making new lines?
Some folks can't make new lines. I admit though that the adapters in this case prob wouldn't work as the original lines bolt into the bottom of the MC so there likely isn't enough length to come up alongside, bend a clean 90* turn, and use adapters. In fact, now that I think about it more, it likely won't work at all. Looks like you need to make new lines
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