Oil pump drive gears - don't wait to install, trust me

CDN5.0

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I've read where it is recommended to switch to billet steel gears if you're upping the redline or doing a power adder but I believe we should make it a "best practice" on any Coyote.
Mine is a 14 Track Pack and the motor is absolutely bone stock and you got it - I lost the pump drive gears last week. I've only got 100k kilometers on the car or 60,000 miles and it gets a fresh load of Mobil 1 synth well before it's due. Last week it started behaving oddly, low rev lost its "snap", it was not pulling at part throttle like it used to and then as the needle swept by 3500 or so it suddenly woke up, felt like back in the day when you kicked the secondaries open on a carb motor. I can only assume it was not getting the pressure it needed until that point and then the cams moved properly although the gauge said "oil pressure normal" and then last Wednesday at 2,000 rpm cruise it lost pressure and spun a bearing.
Crappy powdered metal OEM pump drive gears came apart, the research I read said that as low as 5500 rpm they start vibrating ( harmonics they called it) and they fail.
Now my 'Yote sounds like a steel drum band - rebuild time - don't wait, get them done before yours joins the band.
Scott
 

crjackson

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I already did mine. Although yours is the first I’ve heard of letting go so early and easily. Did you frequently bounce off the rev limiter in the past?

If this is going to require a full build, I’d consider going the extra mile and do a fully forged assembly. Perhaps a crate motor would be a good idea at this point.
 

CDN5.0

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Hi Charles, I wouldn't say I abused it - I've hit the limiter a few times yes and I've definitely wound it up but never any long time max revs sorta thing.
I'm looking for a good price on a low mileage Gen3 and then it'll be a question of that cost vs a serious rebuild and yes if I go rebuild it will be forged rods, pistons etc
Scott
 

cheeser

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I went back and forth on this, but decided to swap them out while performing the supercharger install. Not hard to do, but quite tedious.
254C139C-51B4-4970-925C-06F103C3704F.jpeg
 

Stangra

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If you're changing your oil pump or gears with the pan still on, getting the inboard oil pick-up attach bolt started into it's hole can be a PITA. I used a piece of plastic with a hole punched in it, inserted between the bolt head and washer to hold/ guide the bolt into the hole while turning it with needlenose to get it started. Much trouble saved.

20181221_195712 - Copy.jpg
 

Reaper14

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You can always just got for a gen 2 short block for a quick fix if you're planning on staying around the same power level.

Vic
 

Rb0891

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I've read where it is recommended to switch to billet steel gears if you're upping the redline or doing a power adder but I believe we should make it a "best practice" on any Coyote.
Mine is a 14 Track Pack and the motor is absolutely bone stock and you got it - I lost the pump drive gears last week. I've only got 100k kilometers on the car or 60,000 miles and it gets a fresh load of Mobil 1 synth well before it's due. Last week it started behaving oddly, low rev lost its "snap", it was not pulling at part throttle like it used to and then as the needle swept by 3500 or so it suddenly woke up, felt like back in the day when you kicked the secondaries open on a carb motor. I can only assume it was not getting the pressure it needed until that point and then the cams moved properly although the gauge said "oil pressure normal" and then last Wednesday at 2,000 rpm cruise it lost pressure and spun a bearing.
Crappy powdered metal OEM pump drive gears came apart, the research I read said that as low as 5500 rpm they start vibrating ( harmonics they called it) and they fail.
Now my 'Yote sounds like a steel drum band - rebuild time - don't wait, get them done before yours joins the band.
Scott
Damn you are scaring me. Mine had very similar symptoms a few weeks ago. I have 100k and just added a supercharger. I changed coils and pulled the cats off since they were all original. Hasnt blown or anything yet, but I haven't driven it much...
 

Rb0891

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As a follow-up to my previous post, anyone know if there are any tell tale signs in the oil? Being powdered metal, I assume it just fractures and not necessarily wears?
 

Reaper14

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Damn you are scaring me. Mine had very similar symptoms a few weeks ago. I have 100k and just added a supercharger. I changed coils and pulled the cats off since they were all original. Hasnt blown or anything yet, but I haven't driven it much...
You installed a blower at 100k mi & didnt do the opg/cs? You like to live life on the edge I see

Vic
 

Reaper14

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As a follow-up to my previous post, anyone know if there are any tell tale signs in the oil? Being powdered metal, I assume it just fractures and not necessarily wears?
From what Ive seen online, when they let go they just shatter. Could be wrong. I would say just with oil preasure you should be able to tell

Vic
 

Rb0891

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You installed a blower at 100k mi & didnt do the opg/cs? You like to live life on the edge I see

Vic
Yeah. I just did the little edelbrock one myself. I don't race and am probably around 500whp so I said screw it, I will do a short block if it goes. I just got the car at 99k and it was bone stock and looked to be babies a bit.
 

Reaper14

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Yeah. I just did the little edelbrock one myself. I don't race and am probably around 500whp so I said screw it, I will do a short block if it goes. I just got the car at 99k and it was bone stock and looked to be babies a bit.
Yeah I dont race mine much either, not much going on where I live. But still did it out of insurance. My car was at mid 20k miles when I boosted & after looking at the crank sproket wear I felt better for doing it.

Vic
 

Rb0891

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Yeah I dont race mine much either, not much going on where I live. But still did it out of insurance. My car was at mid 20k miles when I boosted & after looking at the crank sproket wear I felt better for doing it.

Vic
Damn. Now you guys are scaring me. Just not sure a 100k short block is worth it. If I can get another 50k out of it I would probably do it. Anyone have thoughts on fi longevity at the 500-600 whp range.
 

crjackson

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Damn. Now you guys are scaring me. Just not sure a 100k short block is worth it. If I can get another 50k out of it I would probably do it. Anyone have thoughts on fi longevity at the 500-600 whp range.

Well, since my crystal ball is on the fritz, I can’t seem to tell how long anyone’s engine will last lol :)

They’re too many variables to make a guess like that.

I felt it was by-far, the right thing to do, but that’s just me.

How long the engine will last is anyone’s guess with or without a blower installed. The more you beat on the car, the more wear it will incur. Not everything is dependent on your SC, but you should use this opportunity to enhance the engine’s Achilles-heel. These parts should have never been made of anything but billet steel to begin with. Sometimes they fail on NA cars with low mileage and low revs too. I’d say it’s not widespread, but it CAN happen.

Just my worthless 2¢
 

Riddick

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There are no signs of oil pump gears about to break. If and when they break within a minute your engine will lock up, lol. Even if you were watching oil pressure chances are if they broke you would still cause damage before you could kill the engine. In some engines you can get away without oil pressure for a couple of minutes but in these engines not so much.

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