Torque for ARP balancer bolt?

Robert M

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Funny because I already have a IW 10% lower on there that I bought and I’m not going to use now because I didn’t want to bother pulling it. Now the 15% lower I have on the car isn’t going to work because it’s probably going to make 21psi which is too much for pump gas and if I go bigger on the blower pulley it may not clear the hood per Whipple. So now it looks like I need to buy a 5% lower lol.

I think anything 5% will have to be done up top, I have never seen anything less than 10% for the lower?.....but maybe there is and I have missed it....

.......and yes, at the 15% lower there are some things that need to be considered....more than at 10%...

R
 

Robert M

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I figure at least 3", but it's been a while since I messed with it. My "slotted" bolt trick just uses a bolt you'd otherwise throw away.


Yep. A couple shots of a penetrating oil wouldn't hurt before doing that. This trick pretty works on anything. A thread chaser is not as sharp as a regular tap, but probably a little tighter than a slotted bolt.

If you did have a super snug fit on the smooth portion of the stud, I don't know if I wouldn't try a flex hone tool of the appropriate size first. I would just make sure not to push it into the threaded end of the hole.

I just found this one that is longer, for someone who just wants to buy a tool and not mod anything......BUT, it is not a bottoming tap to fully clean all the way to the end of the threads/hole bottom.

M12 x 1.5 x 120mm Extended Extra Long Right hand Tap [SN-T] | eBay

Actually from the look of the picture I added above, with the cutaway, a bottoming tap may not be needed, the saver stud may stop before the bottom....

R
 

Robert M

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You all are getting me thinking about getting off my butt and installing my FRPP 500CJ I.W. 10%!!!

004-2.jpg


R
 

Redneckbmxer24

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I think anything 5% will have to be done up top, I have never seen anything less than 10% for the lower?.....but maybe there is and I have missed it....

.......and yes, at the 15% lower there are some things that need to be considered....more than at 10%...

R

The ATI "stock diameter" lower is actually .4" larger than the stock balancer which gives it about a 6% overdrive. I believe its the only one though.
 

Robert M

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The ATI "stock diameter" lower is actually .4" larger than the stock balancer which gives it about a 6% overdrive. I believe its the only one though.

Yes, I do believe I have read that in the past, now that you mention it.....Is it "larger" (spin slower) or smaller (spin faster)? I was thinking that when comparing the 10% to the 15%, the outer pulley is smaller for the 15% and a faster spin....I think? maybe I am wrong?

By comparison to the ATI you are talking about, the "stock size" (oem diameter) replacement is .4" or just under 1/2" (.50) smaller in diameter than the original oem size.

R
 

Catmonkey

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When you're dealing with the drive pulley (crankshaft) larger is spinning the supercharger faster. The upper pulley is the opposite.
 

Robert M

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When you're dealing with the drive pulley (crankshaft) larger is spinning the supercharger faster. The upper pulley is the opposite.

Ok, I thought I had looked at a IW 10% (like mine) and a compared it to a IW 15% that was in The Market, and the 15% appeared smaller.......but that was not a side-by-side comparison....

I stand corrected.

.....and yes, the IW 10% is 7.95" and the 15% 8.13".....and for the stock size IW 7.225".....

......and for a comparo from the ATI site.......The 10% is 7.81", so does that mean it is lesser boost than the IW, since it is smaller?........and then the 15% is 8.12" or relatively the same as the IW......and then the "stock size ATI is 7.5" which is where this original size discussion started....

So if a stock size ATI is installed with it's 1/4" or so larger diameter, how much difference in boost gain will that be, with no other changes to the existing engine, modded or not modded? I also noticed that the oem size ATI "shell material" is steel vs. the 10% and 15% being aluminum?

R
 
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Redneckbmxer24

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Whelp, Kinetic crank saver was ordered this morning and already shipped. Does anyone know if it comes with instructions/torque specs or is this going to be another goose chase to try to figure out what I should torque it to?
 

Redneckbmxer24

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Yes, I do believe I have read that in the past, now that you mention it.....Is it "larger" (spin slower) or smaller (spin faster)? I was thinking that when comparing the 10% to the 15%, the outer pulley is smaller for the 15% and a faster spin....I think? maybe I am wrong?

By comparison to the ATI you are talking about, the "stock size" (oem diameter) replacement is .4" or just under 1/2" (.50) smaller in diameter than the original oem size.

R

Larger on the crank spins the belt faster to spin the blower faster. Smaller on the SC spins the SC faster.

The stock ford balancer is 7.1" in diameter, the ATI stock size balancer is 7.5" which is .4" larger and will overdrive the belt approx 6%.
 

Robert M

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Whelp, Kinetic crank saver was ordered this morning and already shipped. Does anyone know if it comes with instructions/torque specs or is this going to be another goose chase to try to figure out what I should torque it to?

Back up to post #11 (previous page), I copied and pasted the install instructions there yesterday. On the Kinetik website on the GT500 Crank Saver page, there is a tab with a download for the install instructions, that is where I got it from. I also mentioned yesterday that the torque spec. "is" listed on saver instructions......

R
 

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