What bushing is this on the rear of an 01' COBRA?

ATCzMustang

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I have an 01' COBRA and these bushings on both sides on the rear of car look to be in pretty rough shape. Issue is I'm not exactly sure which bushing it is. This is above the brake rotor in what appears to me to be the upper control arm mounting to the hub/spindle, but I'm not sure. This bushing pictured isn't very thick. My search yielded bushings but they were for the IRS or other locations and much wider than these ones. Does anyone know which bushing this is and a part number please? These obviously need to be pressed out so wondering if anyone has ever replaced them too and how?

Rear COBRA Bushing 1.jpeg

Rear COBRA Bushing 2.jpeg
 

scottydsntknow

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Get the Full Tilt ones with the tool. They are the easiest of all the bushings to do in the IRS. Full tilt also is a lot easier to deal with than MM in my experience. Sucks how expensive they are but it is what it is.

And just FYI the rest of your bushings are gonna be in bad shape at this age if they're still the original factory rubber.
 

ATCzMustang

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That was very helpful thank you that those are the rear 'Cross Axis Joints.' That job unfortunately looks like a bit much for me to get into after looking at the instructions, so I'd have to buy them and pay for a shop to install.

It appears it's just the boots that are torn in my pic, and the 2nd link you provided sells them as a separate item. Does anyone know if they are replaceable independently of removing the entire joint? I can't imagine that's the case, but worth the ask.

Cross Axis Joint Replacement Boot
 

scottydsntknow

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I think the boots are for the aftermarket ones that FTBR sells, not the OEM ones. Better to buy them new than try to rebuild 20 year old ones with dirt and all sorts of crap lodged in there.

This honestly is not hard at all to do, pull the wheel, pull the brakes off and they're right there. The tool that FTBR gives you makes them pop right out. If you can do your own brakes you can do this.

I've done pretty much everything you can do to an IRS besides aftermarket axles so if you need any help lmk.
 

ATCzMustang

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I think the boots are for the aftermarket ones that FTBR sells, not the OEM ones. Better to buy them new than try to rebuild 20 year old ones with dirt and all sorts of crap lodged in there.

This honestly is not hard at all to do, pull the wheel, pull the brakes off and they're right there. The tool that FTBR gives you makes them pop right out. If you can do your own brakes you can do this.

I've done pretty much everything you can do to an IRS besides aftermarket axles so if you need any help lmk.

Interestingly enough my rear brakes are already off the car, so I'm a few steps in and that's when I took the pictures. My hesitation are steps 7 - 11 (and maybe step 22) in the instructions below. The tierod separation, axle removal, and control arm removal. In fact step #9 doesn't detail exactly where those bolts exist. I assume it's the one through the joint itself and one on the bottom.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Assets/install/pdf/irs/MMIRSB-3.pdf
 

01yellercobra

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That was very helpful thank you that those are the rear 'Cross Axis Joints.' That job unfortunately looks like a bit much for me to get into after looking at the instructions, so I'd have to buy them and pay for a shop to install.

It appears it's just the boots that are torn in my pic, and the 2nd link you provided sells them as a separate item. Does anyone know if they are replaceable independently of removing the entire joint? I can't imagine that's the case, but worth the ask.

Cross Axis Joint Replacement Boot
The boots work on the original joints as well. I used them on my IRS. However, the original boots were mostly there on mine so the joints were still in good shape. Depending on how many miles your car has it would be better to replace the whole joint while everything is apart.
 

scottydsntknow

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Don't get the MM ones, get the FTBR ones. You don't have to chamfer anything like step 22 says in the MM instructions.

FT 6170
Cross Axis Joints

Step 7- that's easy, just use that tool to pop off the tie rod. Now is a great time to upgrade to way stronger tie rods, the stockers are flimsy and flex and all around suck. FT 1860

Step 8 is literally just making a mark with a scribe or whatever. When you put the bolt back in just line the marks up and you're good. Its that easy.

Step 9 - Yes its the bolt in the picture of step 8 is the eccentric cam bolt that is on the top and there is a regular bolt on the bottom. They are the only bolts on the end of the control arms and are impossible to miss.

Step 10 and 11 - Get a prybar and pop the axles out, they literally come right out with way less pressure than you think. They pop right back in.
 

52merc

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Here are my refurbished knuckles that I did back in 2018 when I did the whole FTBR rebuild thing. I even made my own removal tools since cross-border shipping the loaner tools was not an option. I did not have to replace my cross-axis joints as they were still tight. Just had to clean them up real good, lubricate and re-boot them. Like everyone says, the FTBR stuff is more expensive, but quality was first rate and they shipped them quickly to Canada. Go online and watch their videos.
Refurb Knuckles LR.jpg
 

ATCzMustang

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Well you all convinced me to get the FTB axis kit :) I'm not sure why it was $20+ for the cheapest shipping as it will probably weigh less than 5 pounds but oh well. American Racing doesn't sell them anymore either, so not much of an option. They were expensive so hopefully it's worth it. The videos on the FTB site were helpful. If I run into any snags I'll make sure to post here with questions. Thanks again for the advice.
 

ATCzMustang

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Step 10 and 11 - Get a prybar and pop the axles out, they literally come right out with way less pressure than you think. They pop right back in.

So I got the parts from FTB this past weekend and you were right; it was a lot easier to disassemble than expected thus far. The only snag I hit was the small 8mm bolt that held the parking brake cable to the spring mount snapped off when I tried to remove so I have another project to drill out that bolt.

The question I did have was in regards to the half shaft and knuckle removal from the car. On the FTB videos online, the guy in the video was able to pull the knuckle and halfshaft through the suspension and out of the car. On my car I couldn't get the halfshaft pulled through as the metal part past the boot is too wide. The good news is this isn't really a problem; the knuckle is resting on the floor and I can now start working on the joints. However, for my own knowledge, should I have been able to pull this shaft through? I tried moving that vertical rod out of the way as it pivots, but there still wasn't enough room. Pictures below to assist.

COBRA Half Shaft 1.jpeg

COBRA Half Shaft 2.jpeg
 

01yellercobra

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For my knowledge please if I ever had to do that, does the shock recoil hard (i.e. is it compressed) or it just can be unbolted directly without any issues?
The shock itself isn't bad. But you need to put a jack under the control arm. Otherwise it'll shoot down from the spring tension.

The torque for that bolt is 85ft-lbs.
 

shurur

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I like FTBR but SPC sells the cross axis joints as well.

cross axis bushings Full tilt vs SPC

Jrgoffin's site:
Suspension

I have the unrevised 99 rear spindles/knuckles and am looking into possibly using some SPC 40mm Lincoln or GM cross axis joints rather than dropping coin on new rear knuckles.
 
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scottydsntknow

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If you are doing maintenance on the IRS and have the money do it all now. Everything. Its a complete night and day difference and at this point every IRS is at least 16 years old. Rubber bushings don't last that long.

The only things that are a super bitch to get out are the subframe bushings and they aren't all that bad if you drill a bunch of holes through the rubber like they say. I had 0 issues with the LCAs and UCAs with their tools. Harbor Freight $20 breaker bar and a half decent gym routine and they pop out fast.
 

01yellercobra

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Or an oxy-acetalyne torch if you have access to one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

ATCzMustang

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I did successfully remove and replace the cross axis joints with the Full Tilt Boogie Kit. This thread was helpful and I appreciate all the answers. To help anyone in the future I made a video on my YT channel on exactly how this is done. Hope it helps others!

How to replace the IRS Cross Axis Joints using the Full Tilt Boogie Kit on a Mustang COBRA
 

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