First timer debating full paint correction

Regardless of what you do for shop lights I strongly suggest a hand held light too. Not saying that you have to spend this kind of money "there are cheaper options" but this will give you an idea of what I'm talking about. I bought the kit and use it every time I polish or look for scratches.
As Nasty said paint correcting is not something that you should do often, you will be taking clearcoat off every time you do it.
SCANGRIP Detailing Lights, best detailing lights, swirl finding lights, work shop lights

^^^Yep, great handheld light oldstv! I have and use several of their lights on their tripods and light up the shop!


And yes, you can use ONR on a dusty car. Heck even on a slightly dirty car. If you are going to use it for lube, I suggest mixing it in a heavier ratio for more lubricity. I believe 2 oz to a gallon for clay lube.

If you ever drop the clay bar while using it, throw that piece away. No if, ands or buts.

To add to that, cut pieces off the bar to work with so that if you do drop it you won't waist the whole bar.

NastyGT500 said:

^^^Yep, great handheld light oldstv! I have and use several of their lights on their tripods and light up the shop!


And yes, you can use ONR on a dusty car. Heck even on a slightly dirty car. If you are going to use it for lube, I suggest mixing it in a heavier ratio for more lubricity. I believe 2 oz to a gallon for clay lube.

Click to expand...

I have a meguires clay bar kit that came with spray.

So,

Do you think I can use ON detail spray as a cleaner, then clay bar?

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

oldstv said:

To add to that, cut pieces off the bar to work with so that if you do drop it you won't waist the whole bar.

Click to expand...

i learned that one the hardway.

I usually use car soap in a spray bottle for lube, do the whole car then back it out to hose it off and dry it vs working a drying a small square the whole time

I have used cheap detail spray as a lube. You will know when you start, the clay will grab the paint if the lube isn't there. I ended up buying a clay bar lube from one of the detail companies. It works great and is cheaper than detail spray.

I start with a dawn cleaning, then dump the bucket and start with another clean bucket of dawn like I'm going to wash again, and use that and a clean microfiber to disperse it generously while claying. Dawn is real slick, real cheap and cuts through everything. Especially if you get the water warm which raises the ph level.

Forget about traditional clay bars. They're a thing of the past that the car care companies only continue selling because they can. Same with carnauba wax. Products like mothers speed clay are superior and can be washed off and reused if dropped. They also wont leave the joints in your fingers hating you when your done.

I used my da polisher for the first time yesterday. Fixed this scratch on the hood.

So far I only did the hood and top fenders.

I'm excited to do the whole car and the cobra.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

Bdubbs said:

I used my da polisher for the first time yesterday. Fixed this scratch on the hood.

So far I only did the hood and top fenders.

I'm excited to do the whole car and the cobra.View attachment 1642723View attachment 1642724View attachment 1642725

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

rewarding as hell huh?

DSG2003Mach1 said:

rewarding as hell huh?

Click to expand...

Absolutely! I plan on finishing up the fox this weekend.

I have more supplies on the way.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

Nicely done!!! It looks great, and great work getting that scratch out!

Keep us posted!

NastyGT500 said:

Nicely done!!! It looks great, and great work getting that scratch out!

Keep us posted!

Click to expand...

Thanks! I really wish I would have tried this along time ago.

Do I still use the da polisher on tight areas? Like what about the moldings and bumpers?

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

use the right pad, and keep the polisher moving not in one spot. compound first and then polish, then wax.

nxhappy said:

use the right pad, and keep the polisher moving not in one spot. compound first and then polish, then wax.

Click to expand...

That's what I did do. However, I still see some fine scratches. So I'm thinking about trying a little more aggressive pad.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

Bdubbs said:

That's what I did do. However, I still see some fine scratches. So I'm thinking about trying a little more aggressive pad.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Use a griots compound and tougher compound pad

Yes, as long as you can get pad rotation on those tighter areas, use your machine/DA.

Looks good! Now the fun begins.

Bdubbs said:

That's what I did do. However, I still see some fine scratches. So I'm thinking about trying a little more aggressive pad.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Orange Hex Pad with Meguirs 105
White Hex Pad with Meguirs 205

Harbor Freight sells Meguirs. I just do all my cars THE FIRST time with that setup.
After the initial detail/paint correction than I only do the White Pad with 105 for maintenance.

I prefer doing a paste for the final seal. That's just me.
Something like Butter Wet Wax or Hydro Slick.

LOTS OF MICROFIBERS!!!

1Kona_Venom said:

Orange Hex Pad with Meguirs 105
White Hex Pad with Meguirs 205

Harbor Freight sells Meguirs. I just do all my cars THE FIRST time with that setup.
After the initial detail/paint correction than I only do the White Pad with 105 for maintenance.

I prefer doing a paste for the final seal. That's just me.
Something like Butter Wet Wax or Hydro Slick.

LOTS OF MICROFIBERS!!!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. I'll probably keep using the Wolfgang stuff I bought. I ordered up more pads and microfiber towels.

I've been buying the rag company towels. Will probably need more though.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk