SN95 Rollercoaster

Real98roush

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Took it back with the PCV plumbed correctly and picked up 25hp and much better drivability.


420/370
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Real98roush

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Do you only need one coolant temp sensor? Like, one sensor for the control pack and the same sensor runs the gauge in the cluster? I was going to install the gauge on the thermostat housing.

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I haven’t figured out the coolant temperature gauge yet. I tried 3 different temperature senders and a multitude of wiring options to no avail. I’m going to revisit it and try to wire the sensor directly to the gauge.


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Real98roush

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Gauges:

Fuel and battery don’t require any modifications to function.

The speedometer worked with the Dallas Speedcal I had from the T56 swap without additional changes. I did change the pin sequence to calibrate the speedometer for the 4:10 gears. Accutach.com is a great source of information and has calculators to figure out the pin sequence for your setup.

The other gauges required splice wires using the stock 1996 42-pin connector near the firewall on the passenger side.
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Unscrew the 10mm bolt and pull apart. I removed all the wires I wasn’t using. To do that, flip the wire harness over, pull out the red plastic pieces with needle nose pliers.

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To remove the unnecessary wires, use a pick to lift the locking tab, pull the wire out from the top.
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I marked all the wires I was keeping first, then removed the rest. I kept the unnecessary wires until I completed the job and confirmed the gauges were functioning.

From the factory 42-pin connector you are going to splice jumper wires to the 70-pin connector plugged into the ECU that came with the control pack.

Tachometer:
buy a noise isolator unit, $10, to keep the tach needle stable. Without this unit, interference will cause the needle to bounce.
Pin 28 (CPP+) and Pin 22 (CPP-) on the 42-pin to Pin 13 (CPP+) and Pin 12 (CPP-) on the 70-pin. Red wire on the isolator (CPP+), black wire (CPP-)
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Oil:
Pin 25 on the 42-pin to Pin 24 on 70-pin

A/C:
Cut the pigtail off the stock harness and splice into the CCRM in the passenger side inner fender. Pin 23 black/yellow is power, Pin 16 black wire is a ground.


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Real98roush

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It’s about to get hot, so i ordered a pulley, tensioner and belt for the AC. I forgot that I modified the timing cover for the PBH Accessory Kit. To use the kit the idler pulley boss gets cut off because it’s in the location where the alternator gets relocated to. Cutting the boss off has come back to bite me, I need to replace the timing cover now. :frustrated:

The PBH Kit is nice quality and an innovative solution, but it didn’t work for me. I lost money buying it new and selling it used, now I need to replace the front cover. This isn’t a knock on PBH. I’m frustrated with myself for not researching and planning better.


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Real98roush

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I like the look of engine covers, but the Gen 3 cover is too much. I’ve heard some people are modifying the Gen 2 cover to fit the Gen 3 intake. My buddy supercharged his Coyote and wasn’t using the cover, so he gave it to me.

There’s something on the intake that interferes with the cover (I thinks it’s for the IMRC motor). I trimmed the cover to go around it using a Dremel (cutoff disc and barrel sandpaper).
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I also trimmed the side for the fuel line to pass under.
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Unfortunately the hood will not close with the cover on.

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The decision comes down to installing the strut tower brace or the engine cover...

For now I am going with the strut tower brace and will revisit the engine cover at a later date.


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Real98roush

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Feeling unaccomplished, I needed to complete something so I bought some heater hose fittings to give it more of a factory look.
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96GT226410

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How many wires did you remove from the 42 pin connector? There's no harm in leaving them there, right?

And the Gen. 3 cover looks terrible, but it's needed with the extra shit that comes with the direct injection. You're right about the Gen. 2 cover looking better.

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96GT226410

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I haven’t figured out the coolant temperature gauge yet. I tried 3 different temperature senders and a multitude of wiring options to no avail. I’m going to revisit it and try to wire the sensor directly to the gauge.


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I saw a video where someone plumbed a coolant temp sensor in a heater core line and wired it directly to the cluster.
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Real98roush

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How many wires did you remove from the 42 pin connector? There's no harm in leaving them there, right?

And the Gen. 3 cover looks terrible, but it's needed with the extra shit that comes with the direct injection. You're right about the Gen. 2 cover looking better.

Sent from my SM-N960U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

There’s no harm in leaving the unused wires. Since I only used 5 wires, I removed the rest for aesthetics.

I could make space to fit the cover by adding spacers to the k-member. Not feeling that though. I’m going to see if a 45° coupler between the TB & CAI will give enough clearance in the front. Possibly shim the trans mount to lean the engine forward. As it sits, the front is to high for the cover. The height at the firewall seems to be okay.


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Real98roush

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Real98roush

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Started sanding the valve covers for paint and the patina look made me feel some kinda way... the rest of the car is shiny and I like the contrast!

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Grabbed a brake fluid reservoir cover from Harpell Auto Fab
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Real98roush

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Installed the MM PHB and removed the UCA’s. It’s a completely different ride than the 4-link. Install was straightforward, but time consuming to ensure it was installed square.

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I’m glad I dumped the exhaust because that saved a step or two. The rear suspension has to be completely removed; springs, shocks, etc. I worked solo, I recommend a helping hand during the measuring and marking portion of the installation.

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The amount of articulation is impressive
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MM recommends 9.5” or narrower wheels. Mine are 10.5”, so I had clearance issues with the tire on the inner fender wells.

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A cutoff wheel, BFH and 1/4” spacer did the trick.

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I would like to get tail pipes, but there doesn’t appear to be enough room to go over the axle with 3” piping.
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Real98roush

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I made a monumental mistake and the car will be down for a while. I’m sick. Before we get into what happened, I’ll outline what was going on.

It’s getting hot here and AC is not an option I’m willing to sacrifice, so I ordered a new front cover and figured I might as well swap out the oil pump and add billet gears.

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Basic disassembly; drain fluids, pull radiator/fan assembly, water pump, alternator, pulleys, tensioners, etc. for the harmonic balancer I found the puller designed for Chrysler was perfect.
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The 3 arms lock into the balancer very nicely. Use the short rod and put a short socket extension in the crank for the rod to leverage against.
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Everything was going smooth...
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Until a bolt from the oil pickup tube slipped out of my oily hands and into the oil pan. Doing this project with the engine in the car puts one of the oil pickup tube bolts lower than the edge of the pan, so proceed with care.

After a few futile attempts to retrieve the bolt with a magnet, I decided to drop the oil pan.

Grabbed the engine support bar to suspend the engine in the bay and dropped the front suspension.
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Pulled the pan
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I have been experiencing hood clearance issues with the 2018 intake manifold because the TB angles upward, so I ordered a 45° coupler. The order has been delayed for 2 weeks due to COVID, so I hatched Plan B

Used so construction paper to make k-member spacer templates and had (2) each 1/2” spacers made.
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Coupled with new 1” longer 10.9 Grade bolts I stacked the spacers to lower the engine in the bay.

Timing the engine was straightforward. Speed Addict has a great video of the entire OPG installation.

Stayed up really late and got everything back together and decided to use the MM oil filter relocation kit I had from the 4.6.

The spacers allowed for the engine cover (needs adjusting) and the strut tower brace to be installed (both mocked up below)

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Woke up early, added fluids and fired right up. I heard something near the passenger side valve cover and jumped out to investigate(never looked at the gauges). The car stopped running and wouldn’t turnover. Threw a breaker bar on the car and my worst fear was reality, the engine seized.

Started investigating and found the problem almost immediately. While installing the oil relocation kit I accidentally plumbed it backwards and didn’t notice.

I’m so disappointed with myself. This should’ve been avoided. I need a week or so to clear my head before I pull the motor and see how bad it is. Hopefully it’s limited to the short block, but I’m fearful the cam journals might have got destroyed.


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Real98roush

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On a lighter note, the front bumper got repainted. It got damaged last year when the road cone blew into the road. It got really tore up loading the car on the trailer to take it to the dyno. The bottom hung up on the U-Haul trailer lip.

PrePaint:

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I had a shop paint the bumper. It would’ve cost me the same to paint on myself after I bought all the supplies, so it only made sense to get it professionally sprayed. Had them fill in the license plate holes the correct way (mesh backer). Unfortunately, I was so upset about the engine this morning I threw the bumper on without taking photos of the backer. Also a fresh set of Envoy lights.

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Lights and bumper haven’t been adjusted in these photos, because it’s coming back off shortly to pull the engine.

Also adjusted the front ride height. Needed to account for the k-member spacers, so I went an extra 3/8” to see how it would sit

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mysteed

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Wow man, sorry to hear that happened. Unfortunately I've heard of that happening on more than one occasion with folks installing/reinstalling oil filter relocation kits.
 

98 svt

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Car looks great, a real bummer about the motor though.
Looks like the front bumper is warped, right below the headlight. Is that the OEM bumper?
 

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