Wheels

josegovi

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Hey guys,

I need new tires pretty bad, good thing I barely drive my car. Anyway, I wanted to get some opinions on a couple of things. I have a 2011 gt500 everything stock. Eventually I am going to do some power upgrades, and my goal is to be in the 700whp range. I am also going to do suspension upgrades as well as traction is horrible already.

I am considering new wheels instead of putting tires on the stock wheels, because I have met quite a few gt500 owners with wider wheels stating they noticed improved traction. With that said, I do not want 17 inch wheels on drag radials, as looks is important to me. I am considering either 19 or 20 inch wheels.

I feel like 20x11 or 19x11 would the best to accommodate 315 tires, however, I am curious to know If 19inch with higher profile than 20s would be better for traction. So for example if I get 315/40/19 instead of 315/35/20. Let me know what you think.

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Chuckieduck

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If your doing 20s you want a 315/30-20. To me I thing the 315/35-20 is too tall and if your car is lowered it’s gonna be tight. I have 315/30-20 Toyo R888Rs on 11-3/4” wheels. If your sticking to straight 11” wheels it might work with the 30 profile but the 35 profile I’m not sure would look good.
 

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Norm Peterson

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Hey guys,

I need new tires pretty bad, good thing I barely drive my car. Anyway, I wanted to get some opinions on a couple of things. I have a 2011 gt500 everything stock. Eventually I am going to do some power upgrades, and my goal is to be in the 700whp range. I am also going to do suspension upgrades as well as traction is horrible already.

I am considering new wheels instead of putting tires on the stock wheels, because I have met quite a few gt500 owners with wider wheels stating they noticed improved traction. With that said, I do not want 17 inch wheels on drag radials, as looks is important to me. I am considering either 19 or 20 inch wheels.
Can you define what you want in terms of "looks" in a little detail?

315/35-20 is about 28.7" tall, or somewhere between an inch and two inches taller than the OE tires for your car. Why so much tire height?


Norm
 

josegovi

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@Chuckiedie
I am not lowered but I plan to do so. I hear great things about the Toyo R888, how do you like them?

@1 Alibi 2
Thank you so much for the pictures, I was wondering how 35 profile would look like, so that helped a ton to put it in perspective.

@Scotmatch
I am sorry sir, I am horrible at indexing posts when creating a new one, I saw the wheels section, but it said "buy and sell" and did not think it would be best in that section.

@Norm Peterson
Well I do not like a whole of profile as far as look goes, so the 17 on drag radials to me does not look good. So my perfect look would be 315/30/20, car lowered to flush the space between tire and fender. As far as the profile, I was thinking about the higher profile because I do not know if a higher profile on smaller rim would help traction. This may be an ignorant thought but, I know the most traction comes from 17s on drag radials with huge profile. Now I know the compound of those tires is a lot different but it looks like the profile has something to do with it, otherwise I would think they would make 20s with that compound and low profile. I hope this clears a little bit more what I am trying to accomplish and where the idea of a higher profile on 19s instead of 20s came from.

By the way thank you all for the help thus far, this is my second post and this community is amazing.

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Norm Peterson

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The tall profiles of drag racing tires do provide for a bit of "shock absorption" against sudden clutch engagement (either on launch or when shifting), and the taller profile tires do tend to be a bit softer vertically (helps them cope with pavement roughness and bumps without disturbing traction as badly). Tire carcass (structural) construction is also involved. All of those items are more or less separate from how grippy the tread compound might be.

Chances are that a 19" 40-profile tire will eke out a small advantage over the same width tire in 20" 35-profile, assuming that both tires are the same tire make and model.

Taller tires - I'm only talking about tire OD here - help mitigate spinning them by effectively making the overall gearing 'taller' (more mph in any given gear at 'X' rpm), though this turns around and becomes a minor disadvantage once the tires have fully hooked up.

Learning fine throttle modulation is going to be your best friend.


Norm
 

Silbult14

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If we disregard tire compounds and construction for the purpose of this discussion then a taller than stock size will generally be better for acceleration [ bigger longitudinal footprint ] and a wider than stock size will be better for lateral traction [ wider footprint ]. As for wheels after you get the wheels you want I would try to have the bare wheels mounted on a quality spin balancer and check for neutral balance before mounting the tires ie. a bare wheel shouldn't need any weights. Also check for radial and lateral run out. If there is a problem with the wheels you want to know it before mounting the tires.
 

slow poke

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20x11 and 315 35 r20s have to be the best combo for the rear of these cars. It fills out the wheel well almost perfectly. Also Lowered it 1.5ins. On the plus side the amount of tire choices is crazy from cheap as shit to expensive.
 

josegovi

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Ok so I decided to go with the Shelby CS3 wheels, however, I now have a different question. I read an old article here of a guy with the same car who bought the same wheels, and he experienced some troubles. It all seems to have come down to the wheels being lug centric rather than hub centric, which appears to be the case for the vast majority of aftermarket wheels.

This guy stated the car would shake and what not, and said that after so many attempts to ressolve the problem, he was told he needed to go to a place where they could balance lug centric wheels, as the hole for the hub is bigger than the hub of the car. So the shop would need to use an adapter for lug centric wheels.

My question is, do I need hub centering rings in addition to the shop that has the adapter to balance the lug centric wheels? It seems like the is either a lug centric wheels with rings, on a standard balancer, or a lug centric wheels without the rings, with a balance adapter for lug centric wheels, can anyone clarify this??

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