2012 TVS Swap ?s

5.c0bra

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Recently got myself a TVS for a great price. Its coming with a 2.4 pulley on it. I have 13/14 injectors ready to go so I think I have everything ready to bolt on. I am moving to a place with only 91 octane so my question is, is the 2.4 too aggressive with the 91 octane? I have a JLT 123mm intake, and CJ65mm throttle body. I plan on using the stock lower and I have a 90mm idler already. SHould I go with a 2.6 upper pulley? Thanks in advance!
 

HKusp

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This really is a question for your tuner. They can certainly tune for it, but they will more than likely have a preference.
 

Radron2626

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I would consider getting BAPs as well for your fuel pumps. Otherwise it will come down to the tuner and how he wants to tune it.
 

PM-Performance

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Sure you can do it, but is 91 was all I could get, I would rather keep some more timing in it and less boost.
You will probably make just as much HP with less boost and less heat and less slip.
Ask me how I know ;) lol.
My car made the same power on a 3.0 upper and less timing than it did on a 2.4 with more timing.
Belt slip and heat are a bitch.
 

5.c0bra

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Sure you can do it, but is 91 was all I could get, I would rather keep some more timing in it and less boost.
You will probably make just as much HP with less boost and less heat and less slip.
Ask me how I know ;) lol.
My car made the same power on a 3.0 upper and less timing than it did on a 2.4 with more timing.
Belt slip and heat are a bitch.

teach me your ways!! I feel like I will hear E85 in my future haha
 

PM-Performance

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teach me your ways!! I feel like I will hear E85 in my future haha

So with about 16-17* total timing on a 3.0" upper pulley with a 2.3 FBO, my car made like 630's-640's with the same tq on 93. The timing was purposely kept low incase 91 was ever needed. Boost was like 12-13PSI off hand.
I have since had it retuned by another tuner and the car sees like 18.5-19* total timing and running a 2.396 upper on 93 and I cannot get the car to consistently keep power in it.Making ALOT more heat now and fought belt slip along the way. I have the belt slip for the most part corrected, but spinning the blower hard no matter what is gonna make more heat and its gonna lose power. Depending on the day and weather, the car will make 17.5-18.5PSI on that combo.

I switch to another tune when I have 100LL or an additive like Torco/Octanium/Boostane and my car sees like 21* of timing on that. Still fights the same heat issues, so I do not bother running that tune often because its pissing in the wind. I will on a cold night and out racing, but dead of summer, I do not even bother.

That being said, what I know now I would have just saved a ton of money and left the 3.0" upper on and kept the car at a consistent power level that I can easily duplicate and worry less about IAT issues and overspinning the blower.
I too want to run E85, but it is a LARGE increase in $$$$ to do this. I would atleast look into an additive in your case, but realize it trashes sensors and plugs quicker. E85 probably does as well.
 

5.c0bra

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So with about 16-17* total timing on a 3.0" upper pulley with a 2.3 FBO, my car made like 630's-640's with the same tq on 93. The timing was purposely kept low incase 91 was ever needed. Boost was like 12-13PSI off hand.
I have since had it retuned by another tuner and the car sees like 18.5-19* total timing and running a 2.396 upper on 93 and I cannot get the car to consistently keep power in it.Making ALOT more heat now and fought belt slip along the way. I have the belt slip for the most part corrected, but spinning the blower hard no matter what is gonna make more heat and its gonna lose power. Depending on the day and weather, the car will make 17.5-18.5PSI on that combo.

I switch to another tune when I have 100LL or an additive like Torco/Octanium/Boostane and my car sees like 21* of timing on that. Still fights the same heat issues, so I do not bother running that tune often because its pissing in the wind. I will on a cold night and out racing, but dead of summer, I do not even bother.

That being said, what I know now I would have just saved a ton of money and left the 3.0" upper on and kept the car at a consistent power level that I can easily duplicate and worry less about IAT issues and overspinning the blower.
I too want to run E85, but it is a LARGE increase in $$$$ to do this. I would atleast look into an additive in your case, but realize it trashes sensors and plugs quicker. E85 probably does as well.


I think I am going to pursue a stock pulley and stay with that setup. Any guess what power I would make? 123mm CAI, twin 65mm throttle body, 2.3L TVS with stock pulley, and 13/14 injectors. I don't want to spin the blower too fast because of your point of heat. I have not upgraded the H?E yet and would like to postpone that as long as I can.
 

PM-Performance

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I think I am going to pursue a stock pulley and stay with that setup. Any guess what power I would make? 123mm CAI, twin 65mm throttle body, 2.3L TVS with stock pulley, and 13/14 injectors. I don't want to spin the blower too fast because of your point of heat. I have not upgraded the H?E yet and would like to postpone that as long as I can.

Pretty basic just drop on and tune with minimal other mods should be pretty close to 600whp or so I would guess. I highly suggest an aftermarket replacement HE. While I find battling heat is a losing battle, its nice to have that extra volume and thicker core to aid as much as it can in cooling. I would also suggest a BAP as well for good measure. Those stock pumps can only do so much with stock voltage.
 

Catmonkey

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I'd go 2.7 or 2.6 and get your tuner to write the tune for conservative timing. Keep the stock CAI. You don't need a 123mm for these levels of boost on the frequency based MAFs (11+).
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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I've always heard, "It's safer to run more boost, than more timing.", all things being equal. On forced induction, I'm very leery about running highly advanced timing. Also read that in Corky Bell's book, "Maximum Boost".
 

me32

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As some others have said go with a 2.6/2.7 pulley and keep the timing around 15-17. High timing on pump gas is a ticking time bomb. Ive seen more than enough do damage or even worse they sale it to someone else that finds out the motor is toast. E85 will require a BAP and the 13/14 injectors are not big enough. Go with ID1000 or 1050. Im not a fan of the JLT Cai. Run the stock setup if not Maxed out or the whipple 123 or Frpp 123 setup. Both are very clean signals.
 

PM-Performance

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I've always heard, "It's safer to run more boost, than more timing.", all things being equal. On forced induction, I'm very leery about running highly advanced timing. Also read that in Corky Bell's book, "Maximum Boost".
The problem is when running more boost and overspinning a blower makes more heat. Either way timing wise you are only talking like 2 degrees when conservative to not conservative with boost. It is a fine line.
 

5.c0bra

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Well i got the blower on. Install was pretty straight forward. The bypass valve gives me a little concern though. It looked a little beat up. Any idea how I can troubleshoot it to see if it works properly? Also I was missing the o-ring gasket that goes between the elbow and supercharger. Anyone know a part number or where I may be able to find one? Thanks again for your input.
 

SCALILOU

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I was also told by a reputable tuner to go with a 2.6 pulley if I'm going to use pump gas, especially in CA. One bad tank and boom, bye, bye block. He informed if a was dead set on a 2 4 pulley, to run Torco all the time as insurance. I decided to go with the 2.6 instead.
As some others have said go with a 2.6/2.7 pulley and keep the timing around 15-17. High timing on pump gas is a ticking time bomb. Ive seen more than enough do damage or even worse they sale it to someone else that finds out the motor is toast. E85 will require a BAP and the 13/14 injectors are not big enough. Go with ID1000 or 1050. Im not a fan of the JLT Cai. Run the stock setup if not Maxed out or the whipple 123 or Frpp 123 setup. Both are very clean signals.

2008 Shelby Gt500, Posi ported and pulled.
 

me32

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I was also told by a reputable tuner to go with a 2.6 pulley if I'm going to use pump gas, especially in CA. One bad tank and boom, bye, bye block. He informed if a was dead set on a 2 4 pulley, to run Torco all the time as insurance. I decided to go with the 2.6 instead.

2008 Shelby Gt500, Posi ported and pulled.
smart move, yes in Ca stick with the 2.6. Youll make good power still.
 

Catmonkey

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Well i got the blower on. Install was pretty straight forward. The bypass valve gives me a little concern though. It looked a little beat up. Any idea how I can troubleshoot it to see if it works properly?
Are you talking about the plastic actuator motor mounted on the outside of the blower looking beat up, or the butterfly valve on bottom of the plenum? This would have been better to evaluate while it was off the car. You would need to apply a vacuum source to the valve and make sure it opens the valve. Then you need to remove the vacuum and see that the motors snaps the throttle blade closed. You want to make the the throttle blade can completely close. If you use something like a Mity Vac, you can establish how much vacuum the motor opens the valve and whether it can hold a vacuum.
 

5.c0bra

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Are you talking about the plastic actuator motor mounted on the outside of the blower looking beat up, or the butterfly valve on bottom of the plenum? This would have been better to evaluate while it was off the car. You would need to apply a vacuum source to the valve and make sure it opens the valve. Then you need to remove the vacuum and see that the motors snaps the throttle blade closed. You want to make the the throttle blade can completely close. If you use something like a Mity Vac, you can establish how much vacuum the motor opens the valve and whether it can hold a vacuum.


The throttle blade on the inside is fine. The plastic actuator looked suspect. I tried a little brake bleeder to establish vacuum but I do not believe it was strong enough. I fired up the care and took it around the block. Under revs there was no boost then under heavier throttle, i did see the boost gauge kick to close to 13lbs. I think I may have a boost leak so maybe the bypass isn't closing all the way? Before I put the blower on the care, the blade closed completely. Any thoughts?
 

SCGallo2

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Bypass valve actuator position with engine OFF or in full BOOST:

Engine off or in boost.jpg

Bypass valve closed.jpg


Bypass valve actuator position with engine at IDLE or CRUISE:

Engine on and cruise.jpg
 

Catmonkey

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Does it snap shut when you pull the lever back and suddenly release it? The barb on the rear/top is where you hook up to vacuum. The barb in the front/bottom is either vented to atmosphere or the MAF inlet tube. You could hook it up the top barb to a tube and suck on it to create vacuum to see if the diaphragm is good or not. If it can't hold vacuum, it's worthless.
 

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