SN95 Rollercoaster

96GT226410

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Does the Control Pack come with a new starter harness or did you reuse the original?

What did you do with the old alternator positive lead?

Would different fuel line fittings help the leak? I've seen others use fittings and not had a problem.

What fuel pressure regulator did you use?

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Real98roush

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Does the Control Pack come with a new starter harness or did you reuse the original?

What did you do with the old alternator positive lead?

Would different fuel line fittings help the leak? I've seen others use fittings and not had a problem.

What fuel pressure regulator did you use?

Sent from my SM-N960U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

The control pack comes with a control wire for the starter. Put an eyelet and connected to the starter stud. For power I ran a jumper wire. I’ll sketch my power schematic.

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I scrapped the factory fuel system and bought a complete kit from Glenn’s Performance (I did utilize the stock Coyote fuel rail with an AN adapter). The kit included a FPR. Initially I bought an Aeromotive, but sold it and used the one GP provided.
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Real98roush

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How is it plummed?

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One 3/8 hose to the thermostat housing
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One 3/8 hose to the radiator
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5/8 hose to the crack pipe looking thing
(that’s the official name from this date forward. I’m relying on you to contact Ford and get the parts catalog updated! Lol)
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Real98roush

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I’m an idiot! When I received the engine from the seller the PCV had breathers installed. I was told to keep the PCV system in the stock configuration for best results with my setup and goals, so I used the stock hoses and plumbed it up.

There appeared to be excess vacuum and oil blow by. I made a DIY contraption to smoke test the intake. Paint can with air compressor fittings RTV’d to the lid. I poured baby oil into the can and connected my air compressor to one fitting and ran a hose to a vacuum port on the intake manifold, removed the CAI and sealed air tight with a rubber glove. Heated the bottom of the can to generate smoke and pumped the smoke into the intake with ~3 psi. No visible smoke, added more pressure ~5 psi, still no visible smoke. Eventually the pressure caused the lid to pop off the paint can. I was confident there wasn’t a vacuum leak.

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Real98roush

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Fearing the worst I start having thoughts it’s bad rings, valves, etc.

I removed the PCV fitting and shook it, the fitting rattled as it should. So I’m back to tripping that there’s a mechanical issue with the engine.

I bought a leak down test kit, but it won’t thread into the head without a long reach adapter. I order one and wait.

Wednesday night I go to sleep as usual... I awake, sitting straight up in bed, at 1am and I think I know what’s going on. I try to go back to sleep, but it’s weighing on me so I head to the garage and confirm the PCV is on the drivers side not the passenger side. So I swap the fittings. Per the previous post I left it as it came and never even thought about it.

Now I’m as excited as a kid before Christmas because I think the car might be fixed, but cannot start the car without waking up half the neighborhood, so I go back to bed eager to drive the car to work the next day...

Thursday morning comes, battery is dead!

:dammit:


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Real98roush

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Thursday after work I start the car and it puffs smoke on first start, but clears up(assume it was residual oil from having the PCV backwards). The excessive vacuum condition is no longer present.

Take it for a test drive and jump on it, no smoke. Casually cruise for about 10 miles without issue, so I get off the freeway to turn around and come home. The car dies out coming to a stop. Fires right back up, but appears to be misfiring as it gets close to 3k RPM. Gingerly drive home. No engine codes, so I pull the plugs.

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Appears to be running lean. I wonder if the MAF reading is off due to the excessive vacuum being corrected and causing a lower velocity of air to passing the MAF sensor. Trying to get back to the tuner.

I have an AEM wideband and Aeroforce dual gauge setup that isn’t installed. I want to sell them for an ngauge, but I might hook up the wideband temporarily until I get this setup dialed in.


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96GT226410

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Real98roush

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Got an Amazon link for the bottle?

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Hwbnde Coolant Overflow Tank Bottle Recovery Reservoir Aluminum JDM Container Universal 1L Water Radiator - Black
The link doesn’t appear to work in the app, so copy paste the text and search.


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shurur

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Great thread..awesome narrative.

This reminds me of how much stress and fun it was to be a design engineer. Every project was like this, especially the closer you got to product release..

We are typically our worse critics, saying things like, "my design is not working, I should be shot,"

I don't know what you do for a living, but you would have made a great engineer.
 

Real98roush

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Great thread..awesome narrative.

This reminds me of how much stress and fun it was to be a design engineer. Every project was like this, especially the closer you got to product release..

I don't know what you do for a living, but you would have made a great engineer.

Thank you! It’s been a fun journey through the evolution of the different cars.

The Coyote swap has been the most technical project to date. I’m learning on the fly.

I’m a commercial construction project manager, so I’m well versed in adapting to change on the fly especially when retrofitting an existing space where there’s multiple unforeseen conditions.

Working on the house and cars is a way for me to decompress. I work alone for that reason. I find that I get irritated when working on my car with others and it doesn’t have anything to do with them. When something goes wrong and I’m solo, I calmly walk away and come back with a clear head.


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shurur

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Thank you! It’s been a fun journey through the evolution of the different cars.

The Coyote swap has been the most technical project to date. I’m learning on the fly.

I’m a commercial construction project manager, so I’m well versed in adapting to change on the fly especially when retrofitting an existing space where there’s multiple unforeseen conditions.

Working on the house and cars is a way for me to decompress. I work alone for that reason. I find that I get irritated when working on my car with others and it doesn’t have anything to do with them. When something goes wrong and I’m solo, I calmly walk away and come back with a clear head.


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Enjoying owning everything you can get your arms around, taking full responsibility and working alone...yup.

I had and still have a index card over my desk at home. I had one at my first design job I started at.

"You will have to teach yourself everything.
You will have to do everything yourself.
You will.
Everything."

I'd have a coffee and look at this before I'd start my day.
 

Real98roush

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Do you only need one coolant temp sensor? Like, one sensor for the control pack and the same sensor runs the gauge in the cluster? I was going to install the gauge on the thermostat housing.

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I added a sensor. Used the stock one from the 4.6. There’s a plug in the bottom of the block, driver side. I removed it and used an adapter to install the sensor. I plan to wire it up this weekend. I’ll let you know what pin I tie into once I confirm it works.


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Real98roush

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The next few posts will be a summary of the tools I used for the wiring portion of the swap. I’ll cover items not outlined in the control pack directions like how to get your stock gauges and AC to fiction.

Tools:

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Real98roush

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For wire splices I bought Irwin Wire Stripper 2078300. This allowed splicing without cutting the wire.

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Separate the plastic sheath to reveal the wires
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Use a pick to create space to thread the splice wire through
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Prepare the splice wire with enough wire to wrap a few times. I use a zip tie to lock the splice wire in place, it can be removed at the end but I left them because I covered the wires with black plastic tubing for a stock look.
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Then used a cheap soldering iron to secure the connection
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Then wrapped with a high quality electrical tape; 3M Scotch Super 88 and cover with plastic.


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