Hey guys, new guy here so hopefully i put this thread in the right section and sorry about bringing up this topic up again since theres plenty of threads about it. According to all the research ive done on here the rear hubs will accept a stud with a .615 knurl without drilling (or so i think) since the 3” moroso studs i bought are giving me a hell of a time. Ive put them in the freezer, put anti seize, stacked some washers and tried to pull them through with a 1/2 impact but they just dont seat all the way. They end up stripping. I have gone through 3 sets already and dont know what to do. Do i have to drill them out with a 39/64 bit?? Some guys on here have said they didnt drill them and they went in just fine? I know arp has some that are the same knurl but arent listed for this car, anybody use those without drilling? Since i know the ones they have advertised for this car are .625 knurl and those do have to be drilled. Any advice would help.
Wheel stud install help
- Thread starter Kique
- Start date
If at all possible take the hubs to someone with a press and have the studs pressed in. Other than that you could try drilling the holes with a 19/32" drill bit and see if that helps. I wouldn't go up to 39/64" because the stud may not fit tight.
I literally just went through this last week with the Moroso as well. I ended up with the same problems you had. I started off using the ABN wheel stud installer. Do not buy this. It is garbage and wasted one of my studs. The other four on the one axle had to be chased with a 1/2-20 die. I was able to finally pull the rest of the studs through using the Lisle stud tool 22800. What helped a little was putting one washer under the roller bearing (just undersized so it would not interfere with the body. Because the studs are so tight, it will actually bottom out the tool and lock it up. One the one stud that stripped, I knocked it out and since I had to have ABS tone rings installed, I just had the shop press the last one in. It only cost me 40 buck to have the tone rings pressed and they went ahead and reseated all of the studs. I asked how much it would have been to have the do all of the studs and rings.. .$40. As you have found, if you have destroyed any of your studs, you had to buy a whole new pack. I would have come out better if I just took it to the shop to begin with. I flirted with getting a press from Harbor Freight that are on sale right now, but I just don't do that much press work. I agree with olympic, just take it to a shop and be done with it if you can. Less stress.
Have heard/seen nothing but bad things with moroso studs. Use an arp or leave it alone imo.
I have that tool on the way with the new studs i bought. Did you take the entire knuckle assembly to the shop when you got them pressed?
yea after spending $50+ on them im starting to regret not getting arps.
those are the .625 knurl, you got them in with no drilling?
Yes, no drilling needed.
Just did this the other weekend as well! After researching the ARP vs Moroso and previous input on this site, I went with the ARP 7723 that has the 0.614 knurl and knurl profile that a identical to the factory studs. With the lisle tool, they pulled right in, no drilling, no strip or slipping...just line up the knurl before you pull it in.
Below is a picture of my order from summit...disregard the filter. Also ended up using the long gorilla lug nuts instead of open, I measured and they work great.
here is the SVTP link that guided me in the right direction...
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/arp-rear-wheel-studs-install.720919/
hope this helps...
Below is a picture of my order from summit...disregard the filter. Also ended up using the long gorilla lug nuts instead of open, I measured and they work great.
here is the SVTP link that guided me in the right direction...
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/arp-rear-wheel-studs-install.720919/
hope this helps...
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You take the whole knuckle to the machinist because the hub is pressed into the bearing.
I bought the ARP 7703's also and drilled the hubholes to 39/64". The studs will go in without drilling if you apply enough force with a press but I didn't like how much the metal around the hole was deformed.
I bought the ARP 7703's also and drilled the hubholes to 39/64". The studs will go in without drilling if you apply enough force with a press but I didn't like how much the metal around the hole was deformed.
Im going to give it one more try with the lisle tool and some more time in the freezer. If that doesnt work im going to bite the bullet and have to find a shop that can pull the hub and press the studs. Ill keep yall posted.
I always use washers and a lug nut with impact to pull them in.
Might not be a bad time to replace the hub bearings proactively since you're tearing the knuckles off and pressing the hubs out anyway. Be sure to mark the camber bolt before you loosen it. Just my two cents having just done a bearing myself.
I used the moroso studs. Had to drill out the hole with a 39/64 drill bit. I think the bit was around 20 bucks at a local hardware store. They still fit very tight even after drilling. I can't imagine they would go into the stock hole without drilling it out. I did a lot of research between Arp and Moroso studs. In my opinion the arp studs are just too expensive for what you're buying. The moroso studs are almost identical in tensile strength. The arp studs do have the super fancy cadmium coating though.
Been there done that.
this last time i put wheel studs in, I messed with it for about 15 minutes before saying **** it. I took the axles to a machine shop and had them press them in, it took about 5 minutes and about $40. Wellllll worth it.
this last time i put wheel studs in, I messed with it for about 15 minutes before saying **** it. I took the axles to a machine shop and had them press them in, it took about 5 minutes and about $40. Wellllll worth it.
Sup guys so quick update. I was finally able to get them in. More time in the freezer plus the lisle tool seemed to do the trick. Took them out the freezer one at a time, slapped antiseize on the knurls and threads, put a washer behind the lisle tool like silvergt mentioned and boom, suckers slid right in. Freaking finally. I was getting tired of seeing my car on jack stands.
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