Head tap noise, possible oiling issue?

KingCobra07

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Hey guys,

So car is an 07, buikt everything. last summer i bought a set of bullet blower cams to swap out. Pulled the motor, and found one journal had a bit of galling on one journal, driver side, intake, #3 cap. I smoothed it out, then continued the install and degree.

After the install, on tip in, between accel/decel. I could hear a tap noise. Almost a metal on metal tap noise. Used a stethoscope at idle and found that the noise was coming from the #5, front driver cylinder area.

I pulled the brake system and driver valve cover. Inspected all the rockers, the cams, etc, and it was all good. I cane to the conclusion a lash adjuster could have failed, and replaced them all. Then reassembled.

The tap was still there....

This winter, pulled the motor, stripped it down to short block and pulled the heads. When i was stripping down the heads, i noticed the driver side front exhaust cap, which feeds the secondary tensioner, was bone dry on the cut out that goes to the tensioner. When i pulled the secondary tensioner off the motor, zero oil inside it. So there was my noise. Chain slap between cams.

I had the heads stripped down completely, hit tanked, and reassembled after inspection by a local head shop. I then replaced the oil restrictors going to the tensioner port. While the heads were off i blew air through the oil passages on the block, the whole cooler section, and had an o ring cut into my oil pump output. I also bought an MMR secondary tensioner set, which are o-ringed.

Motor reassembled, first drive, THE TAP IS STILL THERE!

Does anyone have any insight or tests to see what the heck is going on here? I running 5w40 synthetic oil, and my shelby pressure sending unit on the cooler shows 70ish psi while driving. Help me keep the hair i haven't pulled out yet over this!!
 

KingCobra07

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On last strip down and install went 10mm chain setup, with 96 cobra primary tensioners from my ford dealer.
 

KingCobra07

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Also, this happened with the stock 8mm chains and tensioners, as well as the new 10mm setup with MMR's secondary driver tensioner.
 

2011 gtcs

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As dumb as this might sound. Are you running a Ford Motorcraft filter?
 

gt347mustang

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Id say more so when hot. I usually let the car heat up before i drive it

Take it for a drive immediately after starting it. Theres no need to warm it up, just dont beat on it until the oil is warm.

If the noise appears when its hot its probably a tensioner or lifter. Watch oil pressure at idle as it gets warm.

Have you ran the engine without the accessory belts? Dont run it for an extended amount of time, but a minute or so at idle wont hurt anything. Verify its not tue blower or something driven by the serpentine belt.

If all that still doesnt narrow it down pull the injector plug for #5 and see if the noise is still there.
 

Catmonkey

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Since it seems to have started after a cam swap, have you verified the base circles are correct? It could be excessive lash.
 

KingCobra07

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If the noise appears when its hot its probably a tensioner or lifter. Watch oil pressure at idle as it gets warm.

Have you ran the engine without the accessory belts? Dont run it for an extended amount of time, but a minute or so at idle wont hurt anything. Verify its not tue blower or something driven by the serpentine belt.

If all that still doesnt narrow it down pull the injector plug for #5 and see if the noise is still there.

All lifters were replaced with new ford ones, so that points to tensioner

I don't have a supercharger anymore and all my accessories are good

Ill try to pull #5 injector and see if that changes anything, but its a mechanical movement valvetrain noise.
 

KingCobra07

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Since it seems to have started after a cam swap, have you verified the base circles are correct? It could be excessive lash.
I have not, but two sets of bullet cams in a row would be weird, right? And for it to only be one cylinder with a base circle wrong, twice?

Im about 80% positive ots the secondary tensioner not getting oil pressure after the restrictor in the head. Would there be any backfire of running no restrictor, if i pulled the valve cover and get it out? I know theyre interference fit, but maybe i can get it out with the head on
 

2011 gtcs

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Im running a K&N at the moment
Try running the Ford FL820 filter and 5W50, my 08 GT500 had a metal tapping noise when I used a aftermarket filters, when I ran the OEM filter it was quite. Possibly a coincidence. But worth a try.
 

KingCobra07

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Try running the Ford FL820 filter and 5W50, my 08 GT500 had a metal tapping noise when I used a aftermarket filters, when I ran the OEM filter it was quite. Possibly a coincidence. But worth a try.
Sounds like a good, cheap thing to try.

Isnt there a bypass in the oil cooler system for if the filter gets clogged or has too much back pressure though?
 

2011 gtcs

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Sounds like a good, cheap thing to try.

Isnt there a bypass in the oil cooler system for if the filter gets clogged or has too much back pressure though?
keep me posted, I understand how frustrating it can be with engine issues.
 

KingCobra07

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So leaning towards pulling the brake system and valve cover this weekend. My buddy had a good idea. Pull all the plugs and hook it up to the battery charger. Have someone spin it over while i see if im getting oil through that restrictor. Should turn fast enough to build oil pressure. Maybe try pulling the restrictor off if im not getting any oil.
 

69b302

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I would mic the cam when you have it open, to compare the suspect tapping cylinder to the others. I have seen stupid mistakes repeated by manufacturers. I do not see a secondary tensioner issue causing a tap, but you never know.
 

manny231988

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Buy an engine oil lubber it taps in the oil pressure sender port and it shoots pressurized oil through system and you can see it come out, I did this to my freshly built engine to avoid a dry start I saw oil come out the cams tensioners everywhere really I ran all 8 quarts through the lubber
 

KingCobra07

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Buy an engine oil lubber it taps in the oil pressure sender port and it shoots pressurized oil through system and you can see it come out, I did this to my freshly built engine to avoid a dry start I saw oil come out the cams tensioners everywhere really I ran all 8 quarts through the lubber

So where can i buy this lubber, and is that actually what its called?
 

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