Hey guys,
So car is an 07, buikt everything. last summer i bought a set of bullet blower cams to swap out. Pulled the motor, and found one journal had a bit of galling on one journal, driver side, intake, #3 cap. I smoothed it out, then continued the install and degree.
After the install, on tip in, between accel/decel. I could hear a tap noise. Almost a metal on metal tap noise. Used a stethoscope at idle and found that the noise was coming from the #5, front driver cylinder area.
I pulled the brake system and driver valve cover. Inspected all the rockers, the cams, etc, and it was all good. I cane to the conclusion a lash adjuster could have failed, and replaced them all. Then reassembled.
The tap was still there....
This winter, pulled the motor, stripped it down to short block and pulled the heads. When i was stripping down the heads, i noticed the driver side front exhaust cap, which feeds the secondary tensioner, was bone dry on the cut out that goes to the tensioner. When i pulled the secondary tensioner off the motor, zero oil inside it. So there was my noise. Chain slap between cams.
I had the heads stripped down completely, hit tanked, and reassembled after inspection by a local head shop. I then replaced the oil restrictors going to the tensioner port. While the heads were off i blew air through the oil passages on the block, the whole cooler section, and had an o ring cut into my oil pump output. I also bought an MMR secondary tensioner set, which are o-ringed.
Motor reassembled, first drive, THE TAP IS STILL THERE!
Does anyone have any insight or tests to see what the heck is going on here? I running 5w40 synthetic oil, and my shelby pressure sending unit on the cooler shows 70ish psi while driving. Help me keep the hair i haven't pulled out yet over this!!
So car is an 07, buikt everything. last summer i bought a set of bullet blower cams to swap out. Pulled the motor, and found one journal had a bit of galling on one journal, driver side, intake, #3 cap. I smoothed it out, then continued the install and degree.
After the install, on tip in, between accel/decel. I could hear a tap noise. Almost a metal on metal tap noise. Used a stethoscope at idle and found that the noise was coming from the #5, front driver cylinder area.
I pulled the brake system and driver valve cover. Inspected all the rockers, the cams, etc, and it was all good. I cane to the conclusion a lash adjuster could have failed, and replaced them all. Then reassembled.
The tap was still there....
This winter, pulled the motor, stripped it down to short block and pulled the heads. When i was stripping down the heads, i noticed the driver side front exhaust cap, which feeds the secondary tensioner, was bone dry on the cut out that goes to the tensioner. When i pulled the secondary tensioner off the motor, zero oil inside it. So there was my noise. Chain slap between cams.
I had the heads stripped down completely, hit tanked, and reassembled after inspection by a local head shop. I then replaced the oil restrictors going to the tensioner port. While the heads were off i blew air through the oil passages on the block, the whole cooler section, and had an o ring cut into my oil pump output. I also bought an MMR secondary tensioner set, which are o-ringed.
Motor reassembled, first drive, THE TAP IS STILL THERE!
Does anyone have any insight or tests to see what the heck is going on here? I running 5w40 synthetic oil, and my shelby pressure sending unit on the cooler shows 70ish psi while driving. Help me keep the hair i haven't pulled out yet over this!!