Questions before install

arena314

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okay guys so I finally decided to pull the trigger and go on with my build on my car. I purchased a Paxton kit early this week and should be receiving the parts within the next week or 2. I have a few questions..

The kit will contain the Paxton 2200 sl with a 3.8 pulley, intercooler and all the piping, Id 1050x injectors, a vmp boost a pump, maxflow race bov, t bolt clamp upgrade, jlt performance cold air intake, ngk plugs (not sure what plugs yet), all the hardware and brackets needed obviously. It will have everything needed short of a tune.

my car already has: mmr opg and cs, longtubes, offroad h, 18 intake, rst clutch, stainless clutch line and all the supporting mods needed. car has about 57,500 miles on it now on stock bottom end and trans it's an '11 gt

fuel: I'll be on the stock pump with a vmp boost a pump and Id 1050x's which should be good for what I'm doing. I'd love to run e85 but I only have 1 station in my area that has it so I'll be on pump 93. how trust worthy are these boost a pumps should I worry about it at all? Also these engine have high compression so running 93 with boost makes me wonder but I know lots of people do it. How safe is it running pump on these cars with boost on the stock bottom? keep in mind it has 57k

Tuning: I'm now tuned with vmp and the tune is pretty awesome but I would like to get tuned on a dyno locally so how do I go about getting a start up tune?

plugs: I cant find exactly what most people are running for plugs on boost with 93 octane

oil: what oil do you boosted guys run in the stock motor?

do you guys think I have what I need to safely reach my goal and ride on it for a long time? my goal is to reach 580-600 whp reliably without having to worry about much and keeping my stock bottom end happy for as long as I can. lmk what you guys all think this is my first time boosting a car so sorry about all the questions but thanks for any useful replies!

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TTUhouston

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Pump 93 and 16deg of timing will produce less horsepower thus better for stock bottom end in my opinion.

The boost a pump will be fine for 93 (you should be making somewhere in the 600-625 rwhp on 93 with your mods I am guessing) but not for E85. Most people dont have issues with them but I shorted mine out. FYI - when you replace your plugs ALWAYS disconnect the battery. I didnt, arc'ed to battery while pulling out the plug right behind it, shorted the fuse on the battery cable and also somehow fused the BAP. Not sure if this is common or just me but I bought a return system after that and went E85.

Tuning - I used lund and still do. I am a fan.

plugs - NGK (6510) LTR7IX-11 gapped .026-.032 for 3.8" pulley (I started at .032 and went down to .026 now for my E85 + wastegate)

oil - i use amsoil racing 10-30 but am seeing a lot lately about going even thicker like 10-50. Definitely not cheap on the oil changes, i would do more research on that topic.

I ran the 3.8 pulley for about 2 years and 10,000 miles and loved it. I was running ~610 rwhp for most of that time on E85 (right next to my house).
 

arena314

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great thank you! I believe those are the plugs hes sending me and I will be sure to disconnect the battery lol. seems like I'm going to reach my goal relatively easily. oil changes I'm going to have to do some more research on before I just put 10w-50 in.

I'll be getting tuned on 93 but would it be beneficial for the safety of the motor to dump octane boost or torco in the tank every once in a while? just to make sure the octane is where it needs to be.

could I start the car on its correct na tune after the install and let it idle just to make sure everything is good to go?

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TTUhouston

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I ran torco when I went to the track and it helped getting the timing to 16 degrees without knock. I was having knock issues with the stock EGR system when I reinstalled pushing oil into the intake (which caused my 93 octane to mix with oil causing knock issues). I installed breathers on my valvecovers and never had the issue again. A lot of people believe strongly in the catch cans (not me). The tune (once right) will add or subtract timing based on your knock sensor so that is what torco will help with. Higher octane = higher timing = more hp. I found that each degree of timing was roughly 10 RWHP so if your knock sensor is pulling 2 degrees you will see it at the track MPH.

Do not start the car on the na tune! bad idea.
 

arena314

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I figured I shouldnt start it on the na tune but someone said it would be fine which made me second guess it, I assume they figure there would be no harm running it at idle. That's also another question actually about the catch cans. If I run a catch can on the passenger side only is that good enough or do I need to run catch cans (or breathers) on both sides

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Riddick

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It sounds like you have everything you need. The boost a pumps are hit or miss in my opinion, some last for years and some burn up pumps within a month. I am personally not a fan of the VMP pump booster because it runs increased voltage all the time. The JMS booster is tied into your throttle position sensor and only activates under WOT or set postion (adjustable)

With your set up you will not be able to run E85, at a minimum you will need to upgrade to a DW400 pump which will drop right in your stock tank. The NGK 6510s are the plugs to run, stay away from Brisk.

If you are happy with VMP then stick with them but I would consider Lund or AED. You just need to request a remote dyno tune, you will schedule the dyno time at your local dyno and then coordinate with your tuner on when you will do it. Log your pulls and send the data and your done.

Octane booster will be dependent on how aggressive your tune is. When I was on pump gas I ran it merely as a safety net in case I had a bad tank of gas. I used the Lucas and like it, car never once saw any knock.

As far as oil goes look into Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, it has a robust additive package and is very good full synthetic oil. To top it off you can pick it up at Walmart dirt cheap. I have been running this since the summer and love it, engine runs quieter and I have not burned a drop. I plan to change it once a year since its a full synthetic and I rarely drive my car.

I think we covered most of your questions, if we missed something let us know.
 

Riddick

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That's also another question actually about the catch cans. If I run a catch can on the passenger side only is that good enough or do I need to run catch cans (or breathers) on both sides.
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If you run a catch can you only need one on the passenger side, the drivers side will catch little to no oil at all. With a catch can your PCV system will work like stock, think of the catch can as a filter and it simply catches the oil before going back into your intake. If you decide on breathers you need to run them on both the drivers side and passenger side.

The only downside to breathers is as your engine ages it will have blow by and overtime these filters will become saturated with oil and spill on your valve covers. Additionally, you may or may not smell oil at stop lights from the breathers. Catch cans and breathers both work its a personal choice on which to run.
 

arena314

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thank you I appreciate the advice! wishing I knew that about vmp bap's because I didnt want something that will increase voltage 100% of the time. and as for the plugs I believe that's what I got, And I will be getting a catch can for sure just wanted to know if it was necessary on both sides. so catch can I'm passenger side then nothing on the drivers side?

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rpmchi86

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thank you I appreciate the advice! wishing I knew that about vmp bap's because I didnt want something that will increase voltage 100% of the time. and as for the plugs I believe that's what I got, And I will be getting a catch can for sure just wanted to know if it was necessary on both sides. so catch can I'm passenger side then nothing on the drivers side?

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good thread here, i am in process of gathering some items i am missing before the install of my blower, also had questions like what injectors and wether i need to upgrade fuel pump.
 

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