Clutch advise.

Hi.

I have a 2007 with a Kenne Bell 2.8 dynoed at 790 hp. And my 2010 oem clutch is starting to slip when I step on it, in the 6 and 5 gear. I am on the look to get that fixed while the car is put to bed for the winter.
I need some help getting this done right, the guy who installed the 2010 clutch says it is enought just to swap some of the parts wich would be the cheapest around 550.

Or I go the Mcleod route but wich one? a 2007-09 or can I use a 2010 model due to the parts already installed?

Lmr also have some kits combined from different years wich one would make the most sense in my case?
Do I have to get something done to the tune?? They recomend to get a pcm update.

From their site "(This kit is a direct replacement for the existing clutch, but Ford does recommend a PCM update be performed by your Ford dealer to alter the idle and rev characteristics on a stock car.)"


I do not race on the track, but I do give it some beating on the Autobahn. Stop and go traffic is sadly becomming more and more common here, wich one is the softest to push??

Thanks in advance!
Kempf

Stock ‘13-14 clutch or XClutch twin.
We need some Autobaun vids!
Good luck.
-J

You do not need a PCM update for a clutch, nor would a Ford dealer even be able to do that. Unsure where that came from.

OP you can change up the clutches for different years, you just need to correctly match the clutch slave to accommodate the different clutch depth.

For instance I am running a SPEC SS clutch intended for 07-09 cars on my 2010, I had to go with a slave from an 05-09 GT with the correct depth to match it. IIRC the older cars had more of a recessed area in which the throw out bearing sits.

I changed out the stock clutch in my 2010 for the OEM 2013-14 clutch and slave cylinder. I figured Ford did the research on quality at the higher power levels. It works great! I have not had any issues at all with dragstrip passes and on the Autobahn (The A8 in Stuttgart is just a big parking lot!) and for the last 35k miles. Cheaper than the McLoed and feels just like stock because it is!

Hi!

Thanks for your input guys.

Unfortunately LMR does not ship overseas, is there another place I can order this kit?
Mustang Clutch Upgrade Kit (07-09) GT500 - LMR.com

Thanks.
Stephan

I got mine directly from White Bear Lake. Not sure if they'll ship overseas, but at least you can get the part numbers from these links

Clutch
2010-2012 Ford Mustang Pressure Plate CR3Z-7B546-A | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

$519.21

Flywheel
2010-2014 Ford Mustang Flywheel AR3Z-6375-A | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

$172.95


Slave
2010-2014 Ford Mustang Slave Cylinder DR3Z-7A508-A | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

$178.19

Pilot Bearing
1996-2014 Ford Pilot Bearing F6ZZ-7600-A | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake
$9.35


Bolts (need 8)
1996-2014 Ford Flywheel Bolt F6ZZ-6379-AA | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

$20.48

Bolts (need 6)
Bolt -N808969-S100 | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

$15.78

Totals $915.96



The 2013 clutch is

2013-2014 Ford Mustang Pressure Plate DR3Z-7B546-A | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

and costs even less at $392.84

Hi!



Thank you very much for these links just what i needet.



White Bear Lake is shipping to us only, but Tasca Parts ships to Germany.



And it looks like they are chargin less than all the others or did i make a mistake?



And if I am already running a 2010 Clutch is it necessary to put in a new flywheel and slave cylinder?


Thanks

Kempf said:

Hi!



Thank you very much for these links just what i needet.



White Bear Lake is shipping to us only, but Tasca Parts ships to Germany.



And it looks like they are chargin less than all the others or did i make a mistake?

View attachment 1619067 View attachment 1619067

And if I am already running a 2010 Clutch is it necessary to put in a new flywheel and slave cylinder?


Thanks

Click to expand...

Tasca usually has very good prices, so I am not surprised that the price is that low. When getting a new clutch, the flywheel should also be replaced. The slave cylinder doesn't need to be replaced if staying with the 2010 clutch, but it is easier to put a new one in at the same time, rather than reuse the old one and have it go bad and have to pull the transmission out just to replace it. The slave cylinder also has the throw out bearing and that is an item that will wear out over time.

Kempf said:

Hi!



Thank you very much for these links just what i needet.



White Bear Lake is shipping to us only, but Tasca Parts ships to Germany.



And it looks like they are chargin less than all the others or did i make a mistake?

View attachment 1619067 View attachment 1619067

And if I am already running a 2010 Clutch is it necessary to put in a new flywheel and slave cylinder?


Thanks

Click to expand...

Tasca usually has very good prices, so I am not surprised that the price is that low. When getting a new clutch, the flywheel should also be replaced. The slave cylinder doesn't need to be replaced if staying with the 2010 clutch, but it is easier to put a new one in at the same time, rather than reuse the old one and have it go bad and have to pull the transmission out just to replace it. The slave cylinder also has the throw out bearing and that is an item that will wear out over time.

you know you can resurface flywheels right?

PM-Performance said:

you know you can resurface flywheels right?

Click to expand...

If its the Nodular iron fly wheel i would not even bother.

me32 said:

If its the Nodular iron fly wheel i would not even bother.

Click to expand...

What is the difference in nodular iron?

PM-Performance said:

What is the difference in nodular iron?

Click to expand...

The factory 07-08 and early 2009 had the Nodular iron flywheels what were warping due to over heating. Ford issues a TSB that replaced the whole flywheel clutch. They switched to billet steel flywheel.

me32 said:

The factory 07-08 and early 2009 had the Nodular iron flywheels what were warping due to over heating. Ford issues a TSB that replaced the whole flywheel clutch. They switched to billet steel flywheel.

Click to expand...

Oh, i did not know that was part of the TSB. I thought it was disc issues.
Good to know. I literally in all my builds other than twindisc cars reused stock flywheels and just resurfaced them because I wanted to keep the weight.

PM-Performance said:

Oh, i did not know that was part of the TSB. I thought it was disc issues.
Good to know. I literally in all my builds other than twindisc cars reused stock flywheels and just resurfaced them because I wanted to keep the weight.

Click to expand...

Did your car has the TSB done to it prior to getting the car?

This was the TSB posted on team shelby

Clutch drag TSB 4th revision - $1,438.18 if you have to pay for it

me32 said:

Did your car has the TSB done to it prior to getting the car?

This was the TSB posted on team shelby

Clutch drag TSB 4th revision - $1,438.18 if you have to pay for it

Click to expand...

I had an Exedy in my car prior to my RXT I just put in. So I never had it with the stock flywheel.

PM-Performance said:

I had an Exedy in my car prior to my RXT I just put in. So I never had it with the stock flywheel.

Click to expand...

Nice, did the exedy fail on you? Or where you just preparing for more power?

me32 said:

Nice, did the exedy fail on you? Or where you just preparing for more power?

Click to expand...

It failed, but only because of my own reasons. I got it wayyyyyy too hot due to too sticky of a surface and sent it knowing it was already too hot.
Honestly, surprisingly that thing took a hell of a beating. I was really overpowering it and if it were not for that dumb night, it probably would have lasted atleast another year.
It was a Mach600 setup with a car at about 700wheel on 29.5" tall drag radials. I thought I would have killed it awhile ago, but them cerametallic clutches take ALOT of beating. Both for good and bad, the hotter they get the more they grip. Not like an organic clutch where they slip when they had enough.