Yes, the other ones dont seem to be worth a shit
Head stud replacement question.
- Thread starter esonu
- Start date
There’s one right there in Post #13, or easy to find via Google. Aluminum block in my build, but lots of pertinent info.
Thanks didn’t see the hyperlink.
Does anyone have info on which part number is correct for arp2000?
I get two part numbers when I search for it arp-256-4001 and arp-256-4201.
The only difference in part numbers is either 6 point nuts or 12 point nuts.
2000's here too. As mentioned the 8740 head studs are not up to the task on our engines if running higher boost!
Some like the 12 point nuts because it has more contact area and they feel its more accurate. And less likely to strip. Maybe that's something a racer that has to tear down an engine quite often has to think about, but for guys like us the 6 point is fine
As far as strength goes they're both the same.
I used the 6pt. They went in fine
Currently working on this. I have removed the 2 bolts for the motor mounts to the k-member. I have the car on jack stands but when I try to jack the motor up its not moving. Anything else I need to do? Does the motor need to be moved up / down to get all the studs in? Thanks!
I seen a video on YouTube of someone doing this and the car was on the floor. All they did was remove the valve cover and the sc inlet. So don’t think you’ll need to do anything.
Thanks I'll check it out.
Make sure you got the arp 256-4001 or 256-4201. They re only a few bucks different in price, it sounds like you bought the cheaper 8740 steel ones.
be weary about ARP I've had several hundred sets strip out stretch or just snap off in the past couple years. Apparently they are making them oversea's and their quality has gone to shit.
Unfortunately no one has stepped up and provided an alternative to ARP.
Unfortunately no one has stepped up and provided an alternative to ARP.
I've seen some other engine builders post similar things. Their shit started snapping and next thing ya know they lower the recommended torque spec
It’s the other way around. A 12pt will strip before a 6pt will. A 6pt has more contact area and can take more torque before stripping. We use 1-1/2” studs on very large water pipelines at work torqued to around 1200ft/lbs and we use a 6pt nut with a 2-3/8th inch socket. When I built my engine I went with the 2000’s and 6pt nuts and saved a few bucks. I think they sell the 12pts for more as some may think they look “prettier”.
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