getting ready for a new set up

94slowbra1

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Looking good. The weather is so much better now than a few months ago....vastly better dyno conditions if you get it wrapped up and on the rollers. Be cool to see another gen4 eclipse the 800 mark. I know Kevin has tuned several.
That's the plan!
 

94slowbra1

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And I'm really digging the new valve cover finish. It's a wrinkle and it matches the 10th anniversary red soooooo much better than the other red. As an added bonus the passenger side has the breather port in the rear so you want see it, especially with the crusher intake. Just makes for a cleaner set up.
New cover on the left, pass side
20200106_155815-2268x3024.jpg
20200106_155934-3024x2268.jpg
 

cj428mach

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I like the color of the new valve covers but it looks like there is no way that breather is going to clear the crusher inlet.
 

01yellercobra

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FWIW, when I did my valve covers I moved the master cylinder and dropped the k member. I still had normal springs so the K didn't drop as far as I thought it would.
 

01yellercobra

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I moved the master cylinder first and just couldn't get enough room. Maybe its just me or my car. It was still a tight fit with the k member dropped. It was a matter of finding the right angle and holding my tongue right while balancing on one toe. Of course I was a little paranoid about scratching the valve cover after what I paid to have it done.

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94slowbra1

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ok so i decided to got the brake booster route. how much is this thing supposed to move? i removed the 4 nuts holding the booster to the firewall, the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster, the fluid level sensor, and the rod that connects to the brake pedal. the master cylinder doesnt come all the way out of the booster and the booster wont clear the stud on the firewall. i got the cover off but i dont see how ill get the new one on without scratching it. plus a couple of the studs look like they wont clear.
am i missing something or is this is?
 

OSU34

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https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/valve-cover-removal.677968/

Follow this thread and take it slow. It sounds as though you missed a step. I did mine with some help- one on the booster pulling it towards the fender and the other gently maneuvering the cover off. Took a few tries but finally got it off. When you do put it back on, I recommend putting some protectant (like tape or something along those lines) on the valve cover since it’s a tight fit and you don’t want to scratch it.


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01yellercobra

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There's a bracket that holds the brake lines to the fender below the master cylinder. If you didn't loosen that you won't have as much play.

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94slowbra1

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And you my friend nailed it. I just didnt see that I guess. As soon as I did that there was all the room I needed. And I didnt have to do any engine height adjusting, they all came out with the m/c and hydroboost loose. I expect the valve cover will go on much easier now with those two things as well
All studs are done now. Tq them to 88, was having a hard time deciding between 85 and 90 so i figured somewhere in the middle would work :confused:.
And since i know everyone wants pics, this is what i have from today: all stock bolts out, new studs I used and new studs in their home
20200109_125541-2268x3024.jpg
20200109_125551-2268x3024.jpg
20200109_125615-3024x2268.jpg
 

TP 112

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Thanks for all the info sir. I’ll be tackling mine next week. Fingers crossed it goes well. HA !


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94slowbra1

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You got bud. Two things I highly suggest are a strong extendable magnet ( I used it to get the washers on the studs) and a flexible grabber (your inevitably going to drop something)
Other than that it's just regular sockets and lots of extensions for the brake booster
 

03cobra#2

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Thank you for the detailed posts on doing this. I think I'm going to do the studs while I have the blower off the car after seeing you do this. I'll also be doing a Whipple 2.9 / Kenne bell 2.8 on E85. So I'll be following this closely.
 

4sdvenom

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Thank you for the detailed posts on doing this. I think I'm going to do the studs while I have the blower off the car after seeing you do this. I'll also be doing a Whipple 2.9 / Kenne bell 2.8 on E85. So I'll be following this closely.

I would not even consider the KB 2.8 at this point!
Whipple all the way. Gen4 / 2.9 or Gen5 / 3.0.
The 3.0 is definitely what I plan to go with. Whipple has continued to improve their blowers and rotors. I don't know that KB has made any improvements to theirs since they released the 2.8 except for the liquid cooled part. If they have made improvements I haven't heard of it.
Just my .05

Ken
 

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