Its been awhile but here are my most recent mods

For the first time ever I decided to remove my clutch cable and lube it. I went to my local motorcylce shop and picked up brake cable lube that doesn't attract dust. Just remove clutch cable, slide the boot back and squeeze it through the line until it starts to come out the other side. Let it drain some and re-install.

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This winter with me upping boost and switching to E85 I chose to go with ID1300's. I picked up a set of the new ID1300x2's
My tuner told me that I should be good with my ID1000's but I didnt want to chance it mid way through the tune.

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I replaced my billet Mechman with one of J2 fabs new high ouput alternators. I did this because Mechamn didnt know when they would get different size pulleys in. With switching to a 4lb lower i wanted to run a 3.2" pulley so as to not overspin the alternator and ruin it. I sold the mechman but thinking about it I really should have kept it....

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Its hard to take a pic but man am I glad i picked up a dayco laser belt alignment tool.
Using J2 fabs provided washers following their instructions did not net me with a perfectly aligned pulley. I think most cars would be slightly different so no big deal. Anyway using different thickness washers and tightening down the bolts with the laser on worked perfectly.

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SVT_Troy said:

I replaced my billet Mechman with one of J2 fabs new high ouput alternators. I did this because Mechamn didnt know when they would get different size pulleys in. With switching to a 4lb lower i wanted to run a 3.2" pulley so as to not overspin the alternator and ruin it. I sold the mechman but thinking about it I really should have kept it....

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Its hard to take a pic but man am I glad i picked up a dayco laser belt alignment tool.
Using J2 fabs provided washers following their instructions did not net me with a perfectly aligned pulley. I think most cars would be slightly different so no big deal. Anyway using different thickness washers and tightening down the bolts with the laser on worked perfectly.

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I installed one of his extreme duty alternators, the denso hairpin. The casing was quite far out. It sat back way to far, almost 1/4" or so. I didn't measure it exactly but I had to grind the casing a bunch to get it to sit far forward enough in the bracket for the pulley's to line up. Glad to see you using the laser tool. Without it you're just pissing in the wind as to what's wrong or not lining up.

Great read! Super detailed! Do you have any updates on your IAT2's since your J2fab flow mod?

Shelbyfied said:

Great read! Super detailed! Do you have any updates on your IAT2's since your J2fab flow mod?

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Thank you

I have quit a few updates to post, I’ve just been really busy. Specifically the J2fab mod is still in the works. I’ll post updates sometime this week/weekend.


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SVT_Troy said:

Thank you

I have quit a few updates to post, I’ve just been really busy. Specifically the J2fab mod is still in the works. I’ll post updates sometime this week/weekend.


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Can't wait!!! good stuff, Troy!

Time for some updates.....

I was dealing with inaccurate wideband readings so my first thought was a poor ground.... my tuner recommended i switch from AEM to a Ballenger AFR500 so i complied.

I ran a ground wire from my battery to grounding block that i routed here. All my accessories are now grounded at this block versus random places under the dash area.

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I had to pull the seats to make everything clean. I also ran wires for my EMP trunk mounted pump and cleaned up old wiring (basically I removed my old aftermarket wiring and ran it cleaner and added braided sleeving).

I redid my switches to turn on the following:
1. Line loc
2. H/E fans
3. EMP pump

The switches illuminate green when the device is powdered off, illumination is off when device is off. I have the fans and pump able to run off battery, line loc only works with switched 12v.

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powder coated after fitting and drilling holes in my center console

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Made the switches wiring terminate to a deutsch connector.

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I bought the H/E and fans used, I'm glad i removed the relay wiring loom and electrical tape. The previous owner cold soldered the power and ground wires, it looked terrible!

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For whatever reason i didnt take a picture of the relay harnesses after i fixed the wiring... just know i fixed it! I prefer connectors over solder FYI...

I removed the killer chiller and decided to go with a giant C&R racing H/E intended for a GT500. It also has dual spal fans. So I went with a MAF Racing (used to be Donathen Racing) tubular support bar. I bought the heavy duty bumper support option since I am more of a street car still... Anyway test fitting so I can make brackets.

I had alot going on and failed to take pictures through the process but i followed Malcoms lead. set the H/E where i wanted it to sit within the bumper support and used cardboard to cut out mounting brackets. traced to metal then had them welded to the support.

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Here you can make out the shape of the brackets. I also had 1" bungs welded on the H/E.

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MMR crossover delete with filler neck option anodized in black.

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All finished! (note i drilled and tapped a line in the side of the MMR filler neck for the bypass line down to the T-stat. Also welded a 8AN male bung to the T-stat housing.

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MMR puts the OEM coolant sensor in the bottom of the crossover delete so you now have to extend the harness. Below shows pics on how I extended mine.

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I discretely routed and zip tied the harness to the drivers side -12 cylinder head coolant line following it to the new crossover delete so it is out of site.

And here is everything all finished up.

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Troy, did you put in an aftermarket radiator sometime? (I don’t remember reading about it)

Great job on the mods...I think I’m definitely leaning toward removing the Killer Chiller and adding the gt500 HE....


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94 Cobra R said:

Troy, did you put in an aftermarket radiator sometime? (I don’t remember reading about it)

Great job on the mods...I think I’m definitely leaning toward removing the Killer Chiller and adding the gt500 HE....


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No sir I have an OEM radiator.


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SVT_Troy said:

I finally got around to starting my winter mods today.

-Metco 4lb lower
- Innovators west balancer for Metco lower
-ID1300's (still have to buy)
MD Racing crusher intake (still have to buy)

I picked up a used innovators west balancer and actually got lucky since it had the Super Duty Hub. I actually didn't know it was even an option. The SD hub is recommended for 750RWHP+ and is thicker which they claim helps protect the hub from cracking.

Stock is 1.875" and this one is 2.008". It requires a new crank timing cover seal with a larger ID to accommodate the SD hub. You can see the part # below. Look up this part# and you'll save some cash since Innovators West charges a premium for this "special seal" which is really just a basic national seal. I think i paid $5 through rock auto....

National 481195


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It also requires a longer bolt so my old ARP will be sold with the old balancer. I just ordered a new ARP bolt. A special washer comes with the new innovators west balancer as you can see on the longer bolt.

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What ARP bolt did you end up using? I'm going to buy the same balancer but i think i might have jumped the gun and got the wrong bolt.

Matshelby said:

What ARP bolt did you end up using? I'm going to buy the same balancer but i think i might have jumped the gun and got the wrong bolt.

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What balancer are you going with? The IW balancer that accepts metco style lowers requires a different ARP bolt.


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IW w/ metco rings

Matshelby said:

IW w/ metco rings

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It wasn’t in a lot of a known part number that I was aware off. I just searched for a longer ARP bolt made from the same material as the known 4Valve bolt. Info is below but I originally talked about it in post #186.


It is an ARP M2-1.50 x 60 mm hex flange 8740 Chrome Moly bolt I picked up from allensfastners.com. I paid $11 shipped for it.


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