Megasquirt MS3 Pro Plug and Play to be released soon.

MalcolmV8 · Oct 16, 2019

cj428mach said:
My wideband will work but not perfectly so there's a set of dual widebands.

If you're referring to switching from analog to digital CAN based widebands then you don't use the old factory O2 sensor connections as discussed above. Those go to analog 0-5v inputs on the MS3. Instead you'd use the Aux port on the ECU and wire into the CAN L and CAN H wires. Just a simple two wire network hookup.

01yellercobra · Oct 16, 2019

cj428mach said:
Lol it's just another can of worms. Then aeroforce doesn't work so then I need a new gauge. My wideband will work but not perfectly so there's a set of dual widebands.

It's my job to push Malcolm into buying more....apparently you ve taken it upon yourself to push me, lol.

Just sickening because I easily have $2500 tied up in tuning hardware that I wish I would have just put into a ms3 pnp. Sigh..

That's why I ordered the gauge to go with it. And the dual widebands. I blame Malcolm for his good prices.

I feel you on the tuning software. But I always said if I was going to move from SCT it was going to be a stand alone set up. The sad part is I need to keep it so I can play the smog game as well as keep tuning my son's car.

If we didn't goad each other a little what excuse would we have to be faster?

DSG2003Mach1 · Oct 16, 2019

cj428mach said:
Lol it's just another can of worms. Then aeroforce doesn't work so then I need a new gauge. My wideband will work but not perfectly so there's a set of dual widebands.

It's my job to push Malcolm into buying more....apparently you ve taken it upon yourself to push me, lol.

Just sickening because I easily have $2500 tied up in tuning hardware that I wish I would have just put into a ms3 pnp. Sigh..

At least you can sell that stuff and recover some of your money but I feel your pain. I was adding that stuff up the other day

01yellercobra · Oct 16, 2019

DSG2003Mach1 said:
At least you can sell that stuff and recover some of your money but I feel your pain. I was adding that stuff up the other day

Rule #1: Never add up receipts. I still have no idea how much I put into my 01.

DSG2003Mach1 · Oct 16, 2019

slo984now said:
Rule #1: Never add up receipts. I still have no idea how much I put into my 01.

Already had to for my agreed value insurance policy... I shed a tear or two

GodStang · Oct 17, 2019

slo984now said:
Rule #1: Never add up receipts. I still have no idea how much I put into my 01.

I live by this. One day I sat down and started adding up and just stopped. I have had like 6 different Super Chargers. That right there adds up.

01yellercobra · Oct 17, 2019

GodStang said:
I live by this. One day I sat down and started adding up and just stopped. I have had like 6 different Super Chargers. That right there adds up.

You could probably have a pretty nice GT500 with what you've put into your Cobra.

GodStang · Oct 17, 2019

slo984now said:
You could probably have a pretty nice GT500 with what you've put into your Cobra.

Ya but it was the first real thing I bought out of college in 2005. All the mods over the years have been done by my father and I. It has always been father/son bonding over the past almost 15 years. So to me the car is more than just a car.

01yellercobra · Oct 17, 2019

@GodStang and @MalcolmV8, are you guys running without the MAF. I've been bugging Eddie as well to give Malcolm a break and he said I'll have to lose the MAF to run the dual widebands. I'm not sure how I feel about losing the MAF.

MalcolmV8 · Oct 17, 2019

slo984now said:
@GodStang and @MalcolmV8, are you guys running without the MAF. I've been bugging Eddie as well to give Malcolm a break and he said I'll have to lose the MAF to run the dual widebands. I'm not sure how I feel about losing the MAF.

I assume to gain an extra analog input for the 2nd wideband? Again as I mentioned above a few times, use CAN based widebands. They join the CAN network and don't touch any of the analog inputs. Plus they're spot on with digital readings instead of analog voltages.

As far as the MAF I physically left it in place but don't actually use it. My car is 100% MAP based as are just about all stand alone cars out there. Very few ever use the MAF. However since the option is there I've been meaning to play with it and test it out.

I know from tuning GM cars that are both MAF and VE based some cars would idle better on MAF and others on MAP depending on cams and setup and then you could blend into the other as loads/RPMs went up or just use 100% MAF or 100% MAP.

01yellercobra · Oct 17, 2019

MalcolmV8 said:
I assume to gain an extra analog input for the 2nd wideband? Again as I mentioned above a few times, use CAN based widebands. They join the CAN network and don't touch any of the analog inputs. Plus they're spot on with digital readings instead of analog voltages.

As far as the MAF I physically left it in place but don't actually use it. My car is 100% MAP based as are just about all stand alone cars out there. Very few ever use the MAF. However since the option is there I've been meaning to play with it and test it out.

I know from tuning GM cars that are both MAF and VE based some cars would idle better on MAF and others on MAP depending on cams and setup and then you could blend into the other as loads/RPMs went up or just use 100% MAF or 100% MAP.

I had the CAN stuff in my head as I was reading his email. But I didn't want to bring up something I don't actually know about. At least until I have everything here and can see what's going on.

I learned not too long ago about the GM computers using both MAF and VE. I was doing some research for a family members CTS-V. It sounded like a big headache to me.

GodStang · Oct 18, 2019

slo984now said:
@GodStang and @MalcolmV8, are you guys running without the MAF. I've been bugging Eddie as well to give Malcolm a break and he said I'll have to lose the MAF to run the dual widebands. I'm not sure how I feel about losing the MAF.

I am still at the very beginning as I just got this. I am reading through Malcolm's items and taking notes on stuff I would like to switch out. I custom made my RAI and the MAF is hard fixed into my RAI. So as of right now I still have my MAF in place but pulled the plug and tucked it out of the way.

MalcolmV8 · Oct 18, 2019

slo984now said:
I learned not too long ago about the GM computers using both MAF and VE. I was doing some research for a family members CTS-V. It sounded like a big headache to me.

Not at all. MAF and MAP each have their pros and cons. It's great to have both. A lot of manufactures do that actually. My TT 911 used both as well.

GodStang · Oct 24, 2019

Ok I currently have an analog DynoJet Wideband Commander from like 05/06. I was going to wire it in for autotune but began looking at the CANBus. Anyone know anything about this gauge ECF-1 (FUEL) Ethanol Content & Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge I am wanting to add flexfuel sensor and CANbus Wideband and I hate gauges so this would kill 2 birds with 1 stone if it is any good.

01yellercobra · Nov 30, 2019

Hey Josh, did you ever check the timing? I tried to do that tonight and seeing the timing mark was pretty much impossible. I'm thinking I'm going to have to look from the bottom. Of course my 20 year old timing light wasn't acting the greatest either.

And I discovered today that the reverse lockout no longer works. I'll have to come up with a work around for that.

GodStang · Dec 2, 2019

slo984now said:
Hey Josh, did you ever check the timing? I tried to do that tonight and seeing the timing mark was pretty much impossible. I'm thinking I'm going to have to look from the bottom. Of course my 20 year old timing light wasn't acting the greatest either.

And I discovered today that the reverse lockout no longer works. I'll have to come up with a work around for that.

We began it but have not finished. We had to use a mirror to see where the timing marks are and use a paint mark to easier see the mark.

As far as reverse lockout are you sure your solenoid is not bad?

01yellercobra · Dec 2, 2019

GodStang said:
We began it but have not finished. We had to use a mirror to see where the timing marks are and use a paint mark to easier see the mark.

As far as reverse lockout are you sure your solenoid is not bad?

I was thinking about going from the bottom to check it. But I think I need to rewire my fuel pumps. I'm not sure I can do the same trick with the FPDM that I did with the stock ECU.

It was working before I pulled the stock ECU. Which was the last time I drove the car.

MalcolmV8 · Dec 2, 2019

Dialing in the timing marks is easier on cars that have markings on the damper as you can target 20 degrees etc. or something where the car idles much better. But when that is not an option I use a piston stop to find TDC and once I have it I put a small paint mark on the damper and timing cover in whatever spot is clear and easy to see. Fire up the car and now you need to set the MS3 to 0 degrees timing, since it was at TDC, and then dial in the offset.

On one car I even purchased some timing tape from Summit Racing and after locating TDC and centering the tape I now had some marks from -20 to +20 degrees. It was a delicate and long process to get everything cleaned up, get the tape to stick and be accurate etc. Since then I've just done the 0 degree at TDC method. Unless the car has damper markings like the fox bodies etc. Those are easiest.

GodStang · Dec 2, 2019

MalcolmV8 said:
Dialing in the timing marks is easier on cars that have markings on the damper as you can target 20 degrees etc. or something where the car idles much better. But when that is not an option I use a piston stop to find TDC and once I have it I put a small paint mark on the damper and timing cover in whatever spot is clear and easy to see. Fire up the car and now you need to set the MS3 to 0 degrees timing, since it was at TDC, and then dial in the offset.

On one car I even purchased some timing tape from Summit Racing and after locating TDC and centering the tape I now had some marks from -20 to +20 degrees. It was a delicate and long process to get everything cleaned up, get the tape to stick and be accurate etc. Since then I've just done the 0 degree at TDC method. Unless the car has damper markings like the fox bodies etc. Those are easiest.

Good info Malcolm! We were doing the piston 1 to TDC and then marking the damper and go from there. We did it on the spare engine and began on the engine in the car but did not finish because of the holidays.

Do you know anything about the issue slo984now is having with the Reverse lock out?

MalcolmV8 · Dec 2, 2019

GodStang said:
Do you know anything about the issue slo984now is having with the Reverse lock out?

I looked into it and the PNP unit for what ever reason does not do the reverse lockout by default. My car has the stock ECU with a generic MS3Pro piggy backed so my stock ECU sill actuates the reverse lockout and I'd never really thought about it.

On the PNP units though it would be easy enough to program a spare output to operate the reverse lockout solenoid triggered by a VSS input.

Megasquirt MS3 Pro Plug and Play to be released soon.

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