TT GT500 belt routing

KingCobra07

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So...I'm doing a TT hellion kit with sheet metal intake on my 07 GT500. Im leaving the AC for my KC, so I need to figure out how to route the old SC belt so it will still spin my AC compressor. Anyone have pictures or can give me a detailed idea of how its ran?
Thanks!
 

PM-Performance

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I would think straight across from the crank pulley? I do not think there would need to be a tensioner in place at all to drive a single component. Just a guess though
 

fullboogie

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I would think straight across from the crank pulley? I do not think there would need to be a tensioner in place at all to drive a single component. Just a guess though

And how would you tighten the belt in that arrangement?
 

PM-Performance

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And how would you tighten the belt in that arrangement?
I guess thats true now that I think about it. Im thinking of the guys that remove all their accessories though and run straight shot. Pretty sure they just stretch the belt on? I do not recall them running any kind of tensioner.
My bad
 

merkyworks

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Tensioners don't have to necessarily be spring loaded like we have on our cars. You could have a system where an idler pulley has a turn buckle or threaded type device that allows the idler pulley apply a static tension.
 

RedVenom48

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So...I'm doing a TT hellion kit with sheet metal intake on my 07 GT500. Im leaving the AC for my KC, so I need to figure out how to route the old SC belt so it will still spin my AC compressor. Anyone have pictures or can give me a detailed idea of how its ran?
Thanks!
Id give Hellion a call. If they engineered the system, you cant be the only guy thats called wanting their AC to work.

These are modern times damnit, we can have our cake and eat it too!!!
 

KingCobra07

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Finally got the motor out of the car and got this mystery solved. Looks like it can barely clear the thermostat housing, routing the belt over the top idler instead of under it. The blue line on the drawing shows the new pattern. Just need to measure it up to get the right length now....ill keep this thread posted with the results

123_1.jpeg
 

RedVenom48

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Finally got the motor out of the car and got this mystery solved. Looks like it can barely clear the thermostat housing, routing the belt over the top idler instead of under it. The blue line on the drawing shows the new pattern. Just need to measure it up to get the right length now....ill keep this thread posted with the results

View attachment 1607882
Only issue I see is the yellow pulley will need to be a ribbed idler. For her pleasure. :D
That yellow one is a flat idler. If you can find a belt short enough to go from the top purple pulley to the balancer, youre in business.
 

Catmonkey

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It would seem you could get by with just the 4 lower pulleys, assuming there's no interference with the accessory belt pulley above the tensioner. Why run more idler pulleys if you don't need to?
 

merkyworks

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It would seem you could get by with just the 4 lower pulleys, assuming there's no interference with the accessory belt pulley above the tensioner. Why run more idler pulleys if you don't need to?

I was thinking the same think, like this.
Annotation 2019-11-05 082550.jpg

But looking further I think the 6 rib idler pulley might be in the way but maybe there's enough space to sneak by.
Annotation 2019-11-05 083253.jpg
 

merkyworks

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Maybe this is a stupid idea what but what if you could move the AC compressor forward a little and run it off the 6 rib accessory system. You would just need to move it forward enough to run off the first 6 ribs on the AC's 10 rib pulley. Then you wouldn't need any of the 10 rib idlers and tensioner so you could remove all that and then route the belt like this.
Annotation 2019-11-05 085037.jpg
 

RedVenom48

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Maybe this is a stupid idea what but what if you could move the AC compressor forward a little and run it off the 6 rib accessory system. You would just need to move it forward enough to run off the first 6 ribs on the AC's 10 rib pulley. Then you wouldn't need any of the 10 rib idlers and tensioner so you could remove all that and then route the belt like this.
View attachment 1608050
I thought of that too. I dont think he has to move up the ac compressor. Id just lay the 6 rib on the last 6 rows of the 10 rib system and he should clear.
 

merkyworks

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I thought of that too. I dont think he has to move up the ac compressor. Id just lay the 6 rib on the last 6 rows of the 10 rib system and he should clear.

If that's the case then that would be the "easiest" way to run AC on this setup for sure!
 

KingCobra07

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So to move the AC compressor forward, id need to fab some sort of bracket to move it up about an inch and replace the 4 bolts that hold it to the motor, then figure out a new belt length and path to run. That seems a bit more complicated than just running the SC belt route.

For the smooth idler up top i do have an extra 6 rib pulley that's the same size, but ribbed. Could try that. But, would it actually be bad to run a 10 rib side on a smooth pulley? The pulley before it is ribbed, and pulley after has the edge guide.

And ill see if i can get shorter on the route and get past the serpentine idler there with the direct route.
 

RedVenom48

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So to move the AC compressor forward, id need to fab some sort of bracket to move it up about an inch and replace the 4 bolts that hold it to the motor, then figure out a new belt length and path to run. That seems a bit more complicated than just running the SC belt route.

For the smooth idler up top i do have an extra 6 rib pulley that's the same size, but ribbed. Could try that. But, would it actually be bad to run a 10 rib side on a smooth pulley? The pulley before it is ribbed, and pulley after has the edge guide.

And ill see if i can get shorter on the route and get past the serpentine idler there with the direct route.
I wouldnt run the rib section on the smooth idler. Too much potential for the belt to slip when you let her rip.

The danger is really about that a/c belt getting knocked off and potentially knocking off the alternator and water pump belt. Shorter 6-rib belt will be plenty. Since you arent turning a blower, you dont need all that real estate. The thinner belt may help you clear certain obstacles. Just remember, the ribs need to be in the same valleys on all pulleys.
 

Catmonkey

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For the smooth idler up top i do have an extra 6 rib pulley that's the same size, but ribbed. Could try that. But, would it actually be bad to run a 10 rib side on a smooth pulley? The pulley before it is ribbed, and pulley after has the edge guide.
Why not just get a 10 rib pulley? I believe it's this one.

My previous suggestion won't work. I was thinking the supercharger belt was in front, but it isn't and there is a idler post in the way.

Fabing up a new compressor mount is a pretty ambitious project. The current mount is a cast piece of aluminum.
 

KingCobra07

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I beleive that 10 rib pulley is larger than the smooth idler....but i will definitely have to check this weekend. That may be the solve all!
 

KingCobra07

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Mystery solved! Was able to swap a 6 rib tensioner from the serpentine side and picked up a belt to make it happen. Haven't been able to run the car yet but we'll see if it tries to jump ship. Part # K060653HD.

20191124_120454_zpsiy6bhmj6.jpg

20191124_120507_zpsiiuc89f1.jpg
 

gimmie11s

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I believe the hellion system keeps the blower.

OP is going to delete blower and run sheet metal intake.

OP are you able to simply run a proper sized AC belt between the crank pulley and AC compressor with no tensioner similar to the Coyote layout?
 

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