T56 McLeod RXT install help / info needed

Street Warrior

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Trying to get my RXT clutch install right and having issues, I've searched the forums and found some usefully info but still haven't gotten 100% right. I can't get enough travel to fully disengage clutch without having the throw out bearing riding the clutch fingers too much, if that makes sense. Set up has been in the car for the last 5000 miles and I need to get it right, been lucky that I haven't burnt up the clutch. Here is what I'm working with, parts were bought back in 2011 - it's been a long project.
03 Cobra engine & T56 w/ 26 spline / Lethal sleeve
MGW shifter & @CobraBob shifter gaskets
McLeod RXT 6932-07
McLeod Aluminum flywheel 563408
ARP Flywheel bolts, Pro 254-2801
Ford Racing level M-7515-A
Mcleod throw out bearing 16100
MM Clutch cable & quadrant kit MMCP51
AJE crossmember MU-7051 w/ Stiffler bushings
Aluminum drive shaft / balanced
37.JPG 59389861095__CA3EB047-F9D6-4B75-B097-346911A7B875.JPG

Best thing ever to R&R a transmission - wish I bought one 25yrs ago.
59399516975__D56CBD70-BD17-424C-9C1C-C76FEEEBC175.JPG

Before I pull the trans again, I'm trying to seek as much input to help. I'll measure the clutch fingers to bell housing face to find that depth, forgot too.... This is the measurements I did take and some notes.

Stock.JPG
Original pivot ball - needed a starting point.


Original.JPG
Went 2yrs, 5000 miles with this height. Clutch was on that fine line of barely disengagement / too much pressure on clutch finger for 100% engagement of the clutch, would slip / chatter under load.

Touching.JPG
With this measurement, the clutch fork would hit the back of the bellhousing and had instant contact on the clutch fingers.

Current.JPG
Back to this measurement and I'm back to that fine line of barely disengagement / too much pressure on clutch finger for 100% engagement of the clutch.

My next thought is to clearance the bellhousing / clutch fork so it can go further back when increasing the length of the pivot ball. Hope this will give me the proper leverage to fully disengage the clutch and not put too much pressure on the fingers.

Thoughts? Suggestions? HELP.....
Thanks, John
 

01yellercobra

AKA slo984now
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MM Clutch cable & quadrant kit MMCP51

Ok. I was asking in case you were running a pedal height adjuster. I was running one previously and it didn't give me enough throw to disengage the clutch all the way when shifting gears. I want to say I threaded my pivot ball in about 6mm from stock. This gave me some play between the fork and trans case. I did remove the weight from the fork to give a little more clearance between the fork and the bolt right there. But I really didn't need to.
 

P49Y-CY

fomocomofo
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it isn't talked about a lot in these threads, and unfortunately i don't have any pics to share, but that mcleod flywheel is actually much thicker (relative to these measurements) than the stock mcleod/ford piece or the fidanza.

i was running into the same problem with one car but not the other (both rst/rxt's) and couldn't understand why, since other than the flywheel they were identical. both had the shorter pivot ball, too. i removed them and compared and it is a measurable difference. i should have taken pics. if you have any other flywheels to compare it to, you might want to check it out.

the 563408 is perfect for their single disc clutches however, fork right in middle of window and tob not riding on fingers with the stock pivot ball.

edit: just wanted to add that i am not saying it cannot work, i'm sure plenty of guys use it with the rxt's (and i did too for many miles although it ran out of room too quickly), but it's something i was surprised about when i compared them.

but it does reduce the available clearance between the fingers and tob.
 
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Street Warrior

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it isn't talked about a lot in these threads, and unfortunately i don't have any pics to share, but that mcleod flywheel is actually much thicker (relative to these measurements) than the stock mcleod/ford piece or the fidanza.

i was running into the same problem with one car but not the other (both rst/rxt's) and couldn't understand why, since other than the flywheel they were identical. both had the shorter pivot ball, too. i removed them and compared and it is a measurable difference. i should have taken pics. if you have any other flywheels to compare it to, you might want to check it out.

the 563408 is perfect for their single disc clutches however, fork right in middle of window and tob not riding on fingers with the stock pivot ball.

edit: just wanted to add that i am not saying it cannot work, i'm sure plenty of guys use it with the rxt's (and i did too for many miles although it ran out of room too quickly), but it's something i was surprised about when i compared them.

but it does reduce the available clearance between the fingers and tob.
Thanks for the info - makes sense on the size difference. I'll measure everything when I remove the trans for the 5th time so there's some reference numbers. I'll make it work, it's not that far off just enough that it's not a bolt in but enough to piss me off.
 

gaspasr

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I have the same flywheel and clutch combination as OP and having it installed on 11/12. I wonder if i should just buy the fidanza flywheel so my installer doesn't run into these issues.
 

Comp04svt

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Since you don't know the measurement of the stock setup vs the rxt, I would just start shortening the pivot ball a bit at a time until the clutch fork is centered within the opening. It will be a bit of work installing and removing the transmission to get it right. Start with 5-6mm shorter than stock on the pivot and go from there. Like mentioned in my thread above, mine needed 11mm shorter than stock. But you should not have to modify or clearance anything. Seems like you are on the right track!
 

SVT Hess

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It’s been awhile since I installed mine when I swapped over to a magnum but I remember really doing some clearance work on my fork and the pivot ball I think was a short as I could physically go and still get the fork to go on and that was just enough to not have pressure on the fingers, although I believe my trans already had some clearance work done on the webbing of the trans by D&D when I ordered it.
 

Street Warrior

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Since you don't know the measurement of the stock setup vs the rxt, I would just start shortening the pivot ball a bit at a time until the clutch fork is centered within the opening. It will be a bit of work installing and removing the transmission to get it right. Start with 5-6mm shorter than stock on the pivot and go from there. Like mentioned in my thread above, mine needed 11mm shorter than stock. But you should not have to modify or clearance anything. Seems like you are on the right track!
Curentley I'm at 6.37mm shorter. To get the clutch fully disengaged, I have to tighten the cable so much I have constant pressure on the finger - clutch slipping. So my thought is to lengthen the pivot ball to help with engagement, it pushes the fork back towards the bell housing making contact and not allowing it all the way back. I still have the weight in the fork and that's the first point of contact, so I'll remove the weight and see what travel it gives me. Bottom line is, throw out bearing need to be closer to the fingers (without constant pressure) and the fork needs to go further back to have enough travel to disengage the clutch. I Hope.......
 

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