My opinions on gear lockout causes, syncros and how I fixed lockout issues

PM-Performance

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I struggled with gear lockout for a short time and did not want to buy what everyone was trying to tell me that syncros were bad, so I decided to think about it more and research more and fix by logic.
Maybe this may help some on here as well, or it may be common sense to some, but I keep seeing people keep saying the same thing about rebuilding the trans without analyzing all the data properly

Things to keep in mind when thinking about syncros:
1. Syncros do not lock you out of gear only at WOT. They will grind/scratch all the time.
2. If you power through the lockout, you will break the syncros and cause syncro problems for yourself. If it locks you out, ease out of it and save them until you correct the problem!
3. Shifting through wheel spin is a good way to kill your syncros as well. Dont bang gears when spinning.

Things that will cause the problem:
1. Drivetrain geometry affects shifting with a remote shifter
2. Mounting an aftermarket shifter like the MGW to the body supports the shifter, but not anything else.
3. Your motor and trans torque under high load now from above, but the shifter is bolted to the car not moving. Now you get lockout.

Fixes I did to correct the problem which has been confirmed on MULTIPLE clean passes on the car now and improved overall notchiness:
1. I corrected my drivetrain geometry issues with an adjustable upper control arm as well as adjustable braces at the trans. My car has a 1 piece driveshaft and had a non adjustable UCA which was causing some binding I think.
2. CHE K Member brace with Adjustable TQ limiters to keep the trans aligned and solid from any movement under load.
3. WOT box will fix the issue as well ,but a bandaid to be honest.

Here is a quick video I made discussing the CHE TQ limiters as well as the reasons why and showing install.
Not everyone may like my style of doing things or saying things, but I feel the need to pass on info when I find things work, or are a waste of time.

 

1 Alibi 2

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My 2011 GT500, which I no longer have, it had a Barton shifter..
.
These pics are from 03/27/2013..
.
CHE-Shelby.jpg

CHE-Shelby-2.jpg
 

Pribilof

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This has all been posted so many times before. MGW and WOT box fixed everything for me except 4-5 shift at WOT. CHE brace fixed that.
 

StrayBullitt

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A Barton shifter and a clutch that actually disengages nicely vs the 50lb stock clutch monstrosity made a night and day difference in shifting on my car. Tq limiter might be nice ins. though..
 

PM-Performance

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This has all been posted so many times before. MGW and WOT box fixed everything for me except 4-5 shift at WOT. CHE brace fixed that.

I couldn’t find any data other than guesses and here say about synchros.
I’m trying to help since it’s being talked about on the 13/14 page again as well

PS: the search function on this site blows horribly! Not sure if they lost their database at some point, but all the worthwhile Info gives errors when linked to the pages.
 

PM-Performance

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A Barton shifter and a clutch that actually disengages nicely vs the 50lb stock clutch monstrosity made a night and day difference in shifting on
my car. Tq limiter might be nice ins. though..

my car does not have the stock clutch. There are guys with high end clutches having the problem as well.
 

me32

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I struggled with gear lockout for a short time and did not want to buy what everyone was trying to tell me that syncros were bad, so I decided to think about it more and research more and fix by logic.
Maybe this may help some on here as well, or it may be common sense to some, but I keep seeing people keep saying the same thing about rebuilding the trans without analyzing all the data properly

Things to keep in mind when thinking about syncros:
1. Syncros do not lock you out of gear only at WOT. They will grind/scratch all the time.
2. If you power through the lockout, you will break the syncros and cause syncro problems for yourself. If it locks you out, ease out of it and save them until you correct the problem!
3. Shifting through wheel spin is a good way to kill your syncros as well. Dont bang gears when spinning.

Things that will cause the problem:
1. Drivetrain geometry affects shifting with a remote shifter
2. Mounting an aftermarket shifter like the MGW to the body supports the shifter, but not anything else.
3. Your motor and trans torque under high load now from above, but the shifter is bolted to the car not moving. Now you get lockout.

Fixes I did to correct the problem which has been confirmed on MULTIPLE clean passes on the car now and improved overall notchiness:
1. I corrected my drivetrain geometry issues with an adjustable upper control arm as well as adjustable braces at the trans. My car has a 1 piece driveshaft and had a non adjustable UCA which was causing some binding I think.
2. CHE K Member brace with Adjustable TQ limiters to keep the trans aligned and solid from any movement under load.
3. WOT box will fix the issue as well ,but a bandaid to be honest.

Here is a quick video I made discussing the CHE TQ limiters as well as the reasons why and showing install.
Not everyone may like my style of doing things or saying things, but I feel the need to pass on info when I find things work, or are a waste of time.


Thanks for sharing, good info that should help others.
 

Pribilof

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I couldn’t find any data other than guesses and here say about synchros.
I’m trying to help since it’s being talked about on the 13/14 page again as well

PS: the search function on this site blows horribly! Not sure if they lost their database at some point, but all the worthwhile Info gives errors when linked to the pages.

You're right this is good info. Sorry, my post came off poorly. Thanks for posting it.

PS you can put the following at the end of your Google search to restrict results to just this site:
site:svtperformance.com
 

HKusp

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A Barton shifter and a clutch that actually disengages nicely vs the 50lb stock clutch monstrosity made a night and day difference in shifting on my car. Tq limiter might be nice ins. though..
I have a Barton shifter and a McLeod RXT and still have the issue with1-2 shifting at high RPM at least a third of the time. It's pretty embarrassing. I have "missed" more shifts in this car in the 13 months I have owned it than all other cars I have owned in my lifetime and I will be 50 years old next month.
 

PM-Performance

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You're right this is good info. Sorry, my post came off poorly. Thanks for posting it.

PS you can put the following at the end of your Google search to restrict results to just this site:
site:svtperformance.com

I know. I am pretty good at the internet. The problem is that a lot of the older SVTP content is gone. I think they had a DB corruption at some point before my membership
 

PM-Performance

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I have a Barton shifter and a McLeod RXT and still have the issue with1-2 shifting at high RPM at least a third of the time. It's pretty embarrassing. I have "missed" more shifts in this car in the 13 months I have owned it than all other cars I have owned in my lifetime and I will be 50 years old next month.


Trust me, I am in the same boat. I’m borderline considering selling the car over it.
I fixed the lockouts, but there are still some lingering shifting things I do not like. I cannot bang gears in this car to save my life.
 

Robert M

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Any top loader is going to be better for this. From my understanding the Magnum is THE BEST trans to have if you have a manual

The question I have is..........and it was not spelled out in the Magnum overview......Are the internals upgraded? I know they said it is the "aftermarket" version of the TR6060 and can be considered more of a universal replacement for many applications, but are the insides different?

R
 

PM-Performance

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The question I have is..........and it was not spelled out in the Magnum overview......Are the internals upgraded? I know they said it is the "aftermarket" version of the TR6060 and can be considered more of a universal replacement for many applications, but are the insides different?

R

I am not sure. I just know that the T56 Magnum is the bees knees to transmissions. I just spoke with George from MGW for suggestions and he even said a 6060 will NEVER be a smooth shifting trans. He compared it to driving a catapillar. lol.
His suggestion to a fix was a T56. lol
So I am glad I found someone that agrees these shift like shit.
Now again majority of issues were fixed with the above steps. If I am not getting locked out or binding, I am making progress. I still do not think this is a great trans for racing. Yes its stout, but its FAR from smooth.
 

biminiLX

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geoffmt

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Yes.
I have never missed a shift since the Magnum XL conversion.
I don’t think the internals are upgraded much if at all, but the benefit is the direct mount shifter (and SFI bell if you race).
-J

The output/ tail shaft is different or upgraded, from what D&D told me when I ordered mine. And they can be built with a few optional parts like brass buttons on the shift forks


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

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