Suggestions for lowering underhood temps?

PM-Performance

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So I just replaced my IC pump with the Davies Craig brushless 6.6GPM one since my stocker was cutting out.
So I think my pump/flow issues are corrected, but without figuring out the underhood temps, Im really pissing into the wind.
Water temps are great. The car does not overheat at all. Its just the lingering temps keeping the intake tract blistering hot

The relevant components to aid/hinder this issue are:
Reisch 170* tstat
Afco Pro HX with dual fans
Moroso large single split tank unit for HX/Engine coolant
Upgraded FRPP fans on the radiator
Now the slightly bigger IC pump
JLT 127 with their shield
Kooks longtubes

So some thoughts I had were:
1. Pull the Kooks during the winter and have them Ceramic coated as I think MAJORITY of the heat is coming from them. The big fans are just blowing hot ass air all around and it just never recovers
2. I thought about open mesh vents for he hood, but no one makes them anymore
3. Possibly the JLT Ducts for the front bumper, but I do not think these will help much at all.
4. Maybe a better sheild for the filter, but I think if the headers are dissipating that much heat to keep the tube hot, the filter isn't as much the issue

Any ideas from you guys that have maybe struggled with this?
 

PM-Performance

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I would definitely try the brake duct holes and run the ducting toward the radiator/heat exchanger.

I was thinking of running them up to the filter area. I think that is kind of their intent, but the problem lays again the air is still trapped with no place to vent?
I am not sure pointing at the rad or heat exchanger will help much if I think about this logically. I do not think coolant temp is the issue. I just think its ambiant lingering heat under the hood making everything hot
I just removed the under hood liner on a whim thinking that was trapping some heat in and maybe not allowing the hood vents to work well? I removed the molding at the rear of the hood before with nill results, but I left the liner in before. Im gonna test again and see if that makes any difference.

I have read of people using a belly pan from a 10+ car or something that possibly theoretically might make a diff?
 

PM-Performance

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Pretty 'cool' little video:

I don’t necessarily trust a manufacturer, but I have had manifolds and turbine housings coated already and helped imho. Just curious if any guys seen any real world differences on longtubes?
I can’t be the only person with retarded under hood temps
 

RBB

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I have the same issues, and also have my LTs ceramic coated. Doesn’t seem to make any difference.
 

Stangra

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So I just replaced my IC pump with the Davies Craig brushless 6.6GPM one since my stocker was cutting out.
So I think my pump/flow issues are corrected, but without figuring out the underhood temps, Im really pissing into the wind.
Water temps are great. The car does not overheat at all. Its just the lingering temps keeping the intake tract blistering hot

The relevant components to aid/hinder this issue are:
Reisch 170* tstat
Afco Pro HX with dual fans
Moroso large single split tank unit for HX/Engine coolant
Upgraded FRPP fans on the radiator
Now the slightly bigger IC pump
JLT 127 with their shield
Kooks longtubes

So some thoughts I had were:
1. Pull the Kooks during the winter and have them Ceramic coated as I think MAJORITY of the heat is coming from them. The big fans are just blowing hot ass air all around and it just never recovers
2. I thought about open mesh vents for he hood, but no one makes them anymore
3. Possibly the JLT Ducts for the front bumper, but I do not think these will help much at all.
4. Maybe a better sheild for the filter, but I think if the headers are dissipating that much heat to keep the tube hot, the filter isn't as much the issue

Any ideas from you guys that have maybe struggled with this?
Race Louvers - Hood Extractors for the Street & Track

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geoffmt

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Ceramic coat the headers and open up the hood venting, that’s a great start


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

me32

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So I just replaced my IC pump with the Davies Craig brushless 6.6GPM one since my stocker was cutting out.
So I think my pump/flow issues are corrected, but without figuring out the underhood temps, Im really pissing into the wind.
Water temps are great. The car does not overheat at all. Its just the lingering temps keeping the intake tract blistering hot

The relevant components to aid/hinder this issue are:
Reisch 170* tstat
Afco Pro HX with dual fans
Moroso large single split tank unit for HX/Engine coolant
Upgraded FRPP fans on the radiator
Now the slightly bigger IC pump
JLT 127 with their shield
Kooks longtubes

So some thoughts I had were:
1. Pull the Kooks during the winter and have them Ceramic coated as I think MAJORITY of the heat is coming from them. The big fans are just blowing hot ass air all around and it just never recovers
2. I thought about open mesh vents for he hood, but no one makes them anymore
3. Possibly the JLT Ducts for the front bumper, but I do not think these will help much at all.
4. Maybe a better sheild for the filter, but I think if the headers are dissipating that much heat to keep the tube hot, the filter isn't as much the issue

Any ideas from you guys that have maybe struggled with this?

What about going with an after market hood? Something that allows better cooling.
 

PM-Performance

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I have the same issues, and also have my LTs ceramic coated. Doesn’t seem to make any difference.

Damn, that sucks to hear. I thought that would have helped




remove rear hood seal. That will get the heat moving out of there.

the hood seal itself didn’t seem to do anything. I just removed the hood liner as wel and gonna retry


I’m not willing to cut up my hood though. I wish I could find some meshed ones like the true forged.

What about going with an after market hood? Something that allows better cooling.

it’s an option, but I really don’t want to change the looks of the car like that.
 

69b302

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What are your IAT1 and IAT2 temps stopped in traffic and at cruise?
 

PM-Performance

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What are your IAT1 and IAT2 temps stopped in traffic and at cruise?

depends on the day.
Before the engine bay turns into an inferno the delta is a few degrees.
Once heat soak has kicked in the delta is usually 25-30 degrees while cruising and within a couple degrees at idle.
My logic is keeping the bay cooler= lower iat1 which also means lower iat2
I've always wondered if fender vents something similar to the 350 has would make a difference.

I think it would make a difference while cruising depending how it was ducted. I thought fender ducts were moreso for brake cooling though?
 

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