Yeah, possibly. Maybe the resistor block. I've never experienced this happening in any vehicle I've owned in the last 22 yrs. Wonder if the fuel quality has much to do with it.
2004 Cobra
- Thread starter jlee7765
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Yeah, possibly. Maybe the resistor block. I've never experienced this happening in any vehicle I've owned in the last 22 yrs. Wonder if the fuel quality has much to do with it.
Find out if it was EVER TUNED and have access to that info for future.
Inspect the top, those are $600 to $1,100 replacement costs.
Inspect the top, those are $600 to $1,100 replacement costs.
If those sub-frame connectors are the factory bolted-on connectors, you're going to want to replace them with proper welded on connectors.
If the tank has been dropped and pumps added they probably broke the resistor block putting the pump hat back in the tank. There is a process to getting the pump hat out and back in. You have to pop the float arm out of the resistor because it won’t come out all assembled. Same thing putting it back in. If you force it or don’t get it stuck in and assembled just right it’s easy to break the resistor. There are plenty of write ups floating around here that give step by step instructions on how to remove and replace the pump hat.
Ken
this is very true and excellent advice. i just removed my fuel pumps for the first time and could see that the arm needed to be popped from the tab before removing. and it is part of the procedure as written in the factory service manual.
another related procedure that the manual says to do is to remove the fuel tank grommet prior to sliding the tank off of the filler tube, or damage to the check valve will occur. i don't hear alot of guys talk about doing this, but i can see that it would also be the case as well.
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My gut feeling is.....walk away from this one and continue your search. I have a feeling if you buy it, you'll be unraveling a lot of ugly $ecret$ that will put dents in your wallet.
However, if you really love it....go drive it. See how it idles, shifts gears, and driveline clunks....etc. If acceptable.....Then DEMAND a compression test on the motor. Do not buy without a 3rd party compression test.
However, if you really love it....go drive it. See how it idles, shifts gears, and driveline clunks....etc. If acceptable.....Then DEMAND a compression test on the motor. Do not buy without a 3rd party compression test.
jlee7765
New Member
I walked away from this one. just some thing about the car when I seen it I wasn’t happy with.
jlee7765
New Member
car had bubbled paint on front bumper, other minor things too. I know the car is old but I don’t want to be spending money right after I leave the dealer. Like you said my gut feeling told me to walk away.
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