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ON D BIT

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Needing brakes, what are my options. I’m at 31k miles. My brake light coming on and off while driving and brake fluid reservoir is bone dry.

Wanting same to similar feel, love it if the brakes would last more than 30k miles, and maybe slotted rotors...

Want the best bang for buck.
Ideas or thoughts?
 

kevinatfms

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Needing brakes, what are my options. I’m at 31k miles. My brake light coming on and off while driving and brake fluid reservoir is bone dry.

Wanting same to similar feel, love it if the brakes would last more than 30k miles, and maybe slotted rotors...

Want the best bang for buck.
Ideas or thoughts?

Any plans to track it?

For the price, the factory performance pads are exceptionally good and the initial cold bite is astounding. Its surprising how well they work for an OE pad in almost every condition you can throw at it. They will last a light track day and are easily the best autocross pad you can get(transitions are insane with the cold bite). They went around 25k miles before i had to change them. They dust like hell but that is expected with the amount of bite they have.

I swapped to the Hawk HPS 5.0's up front and Hawk HP's in the rear on my last street brake change. I lost initial bite quite a bit(to the point of being a bit unhappy) but they excel when they get hot. For a daily driver there are better pads out there. I have about 15k miles on them now and they still have 5mm left or so. I did overheat the Hawk brake lube at a fast autocross course over a 50+ second run. The lube congealed and then hung the brake pad against the rotor. Felt as if the brake was locked up. Had to pull everything apart and regrease them with a proper nickel based pad lube. Told Hawk about it and they didnt really know what happened and didnt seem to care. Very off putting as if this had happened at a track day id be driving a different car now.

For my next set of street pads though, i will be going back to the OE performance pads. I cant get over losing that initial cold bite.

Current track brake setup is EBC Red Stuff pads with blank rotors. Second set of track day pads that i just picked up on the cheap are the Powerstop PST Advanced Track Day Pads(front and rear). I will also run them with a set of blank rotors. I have heard good reviews from some of the Miata guys on the PST pads and am looking forward to trying them out in different conditions. The EBC pads have been great though and really can take the heat. Dont know why people dont like them.

As far as rotors are concerned.....stick with blanks. No need for slotted unless you want the look. Id spend the extra cash on a set of braided brake lines and a good fluid(RBF600 or 660). After that, invest in some cooling options(fascia ducting/air deflectors).
 

PhoenixM3

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Any plans to track it?

For the price, the factory performance pads are exceptionally good and the initial cold bite is astounding. Its surprising how well they work for an OE pad in almost every condition you can throw at it. They will last a light track day and are easily the best autocross pad you can get(transitions are insane with the cold bite). They went around 25k miles before i had to change them. They dust like hell but that is expected with the amount of bite they have.

I swapped to the Hawk HPS 5.0's up front and Hawk HP's in the rear on my last street brake change. I lost initial bite quite a bit(to the point of being a bit unhappy) but they excel when they get hot. For a daily driver there are better pads out there. I have about 15k miles on them now and they still have 5mm left or so. I did overheat the Hawk brake lube at a fast autocross course over a 50+ second run. The lube congealed and then hung the brake pad against the rotor. Felt as if the brake was locked up. Had to pull everything apart and regrease them with a proper nickel based pad lube. Told Hawk about it and they didnt really know what happened and didnt seem to care. Very off putting as if this had happened at a track day id be driving a different car now.

For my next set of street pads though, i will be going back to the OE performance pads. I cant get over losing that initial cold bite.

Current track brake setup is EBC Red Stuff pads with blank rotors. Second set of track day pads that i just picked up on the cheap are the Powerstop PST Advanced Track Day Pads(front and rear). I will also run them with a set of blank rotors. I have heard good reviews from some of the Miata guys on the PST pads and am looking forward to trying them out in different conditions. The EBC pads have been great though and really can take the heat. Dont know why people dont like them.

As far as rotors are concerned.....stick with blanks. No need for slotted unless you want the look. Id spend the extra cash on a set of braided brake lines and a good fluid(RBF600 or 660). After that, invest in some cooling options(fascia ducting/air deflectors).
I had decent luck with the Hawk HPS pads, steel lines and good fluid. Buddy and I did a bunch of laps at the ‘Ring and the only issue was with water temp on the final (11th) lap.
 

ON D BIT

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Any plans to track it?

For the price, the factory performance pads are exceptionally good and the initial cold bite is astounding. Its surprising how well they work for an OE pad in almost every condition you can throw at it. They will last a light track day and are easily the best autocross pad you can get(transitions are insane with the cold bite). They went around 25k miles before i had to change them. They dust like hell but that is expected with the amount of bite they have.

I swapped to the Hawk HPS 5.0's up front and Hawk HP's in the rear on my last street brake change. I lost initial bite quite a bit(to the point of being a bit unhappy) but they excel when they get hot. For a daily driver there are better pads out there. I have about 15k miles on them now and they still have 5mm left or so. I did overheat the Hawk brake lube at a fast autocross course over a 50+ second run. The lube congealed and then hung the brake pad against the rotor. Felt as if the brake was locked up. Had to pull everything apart and regrease them with a proper nickel based pad lube. Told Hawk about it and they didnt really know what happened and didnt seem to care. Very off putting as if this had happened at a track day id be driving a different car now.

For my next set of street pads though, i will be going back to the OE performance pads. I cant get over losing that initial cold bite.

Current track brake setup is EBC Red Stuff pads with blank rotors. Second set of track day pads that i just picked up on the cheap are the Powerstop PST Advanced Track Day Pads(front and rear). I will also run them with a set of blank rotors. I have heard good reviews from some of the Miata guys on the PST pads and am looking forward to trying them out in different conditions. The EBC pads have been great though and really can take the heat. Dont know why people dont like them.

As far as rotors are concerned.....stick with blanks. No need for slotted unless you want the look. Id spend the extra cash on a set of braided brake lines and a good fluid(RBF600 or 660). After that, invest in some cooling options(fascia ducting/air deflectors).
Would different rotors last longer paired with oe pads? I’d rather not go through pads and rotors every 30k miles....

Thanks for the info!
 

kevinatfms

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Would different rotors last longer paired with oe pads? I’d rather not go through pads and rotors every 30k miles....

Thanks for the info!

Are you having issues with front, rear or both? And is this during daily driving?

No a different rotor isnt the answer(slots and drilling are useless if the rotor cant absorb and shed the heat fast enough). A rotor is just a large heat sink. The larger the heat sink the more heat it can absorb before going into thermal shock where the pads overheat and leave deposits on the rotors("warping").

Ive never found one to last longer than another in the same sizing. You would need a larger heat sink(rotor) to help take the thermal load along with a pad that can resist overheating at the higher temps.

You can add cooling ducts by two methods, one force fed from the front bumper and one by deflectors. The front bumper method is more effective but can cost a whole lot more. The deflectors are less effective but are a bolt on item that can be reversed quite easily(one single bolt).

I plan on trying out my Boomba deflectors here shortly(track day) and will record the temps of the brakes, any fade and any boiling. If the brakes still have issues i may go to full ducting using the following thread....
My Brake Ducts Build

For the lower front splitter. Rivet into place then cut out square section of the front undergaurd.

3" brake ducting. Cut in half(this is a 12' piece). Connect one end from each front lip duct to each wheel.

3" aluminum tube for backing plates to duct air to center of rotor and hub. Bolt into place and drill 3" hole for airflow.
 

kevinatfms

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No issues. Just not a fan of purchasing 4 rotors and pads every 30k miles. Small price to pay for the enjoyment of this car though.

Totally understand. Id def try some cooling and see if that helps. The Boomba brake deflectors are a nice piece and dont require any modifications to the car. Bolt on and throw some temp strips on the rotor to see how they cool them down.
 

PhoenixM3

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It’s mute. Hit a deer last Tuesday. It’s totaled. Getting into something bigger as I’m getting married. Haha.
19 TRD OR Tacoma
19 Scat Pack
16 cert NX 200T F Sport
You're ok, right!? Get a '19 FiST and drive the wheels off of it. As you know it's a great commuter....
 

kevinatfms

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Next autocross is on the 10th. Going to swap back to my 15's this week and start looking into ForScan to disable the TPMS system. I had a sensor go bad and i hate the extremely annoying warning message.

Nothing really planned for installs at this time. Too busy with work, the chump car and home life to tackle a large job on the Fiesta. So just prep for the event and have fun.
 

ON D BIT

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Focus RS (ahem) allegedly has a larger rear seat.
Ended up with a TRD Off Road Tacoma. I did think about the RS but there was none for sale locally, I did not have transportation to go searching(ie drive 5 or 6 hours and have a dealer try to stick me with high rate so they could earn a kickback, then drive back in a rental car).
Almost ended up with the F8 green scatpack though.
 

kevinatfms

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Event is this Saturday at one of my favorite courses. I am going to have my action cam ready for some in car video. Hope to post some of my runs. Ill get some photos also(hopefully) since i havent posted any autocross action photos in a while.
 

kevinatfms

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Event is this Saturday at one of my favorite courses. I am going to have my action cam ready for some in car video. Hope to post some of my runs. Ill get some photos also(hopefully) since i havent posted any autocross action photos in a while.

No video. Left my action cam on the kitchen counter running out of the house. So here is two pics from a pro photographer who was at the event.
Fiesta Small 1.jpg

Fiesta Small 2.jpg


Had one little issue. After each run, the car would hesitate, stutter and misfire while sitting in the staging lane. A blip of the throttle would clear it up. After the event on the way home it drove 100% perfect. Never had a problem after.

Im thinking its something to do with the plugs but they were almost brand new(less than 100miles?). I didnt have the Access Port hooked up so i couldnt tell if it had ignition corrections or knock retard. Im guessing since im using the stock range heat plugs that they may have overheated and caused a big KR event.

So im going to log the car around town and send them to Dizzy Tuning to see if he sees something that i dont on the PIDS. I did get a revision tune from Dizzy to the V2 93 octane map so with that and a clean up it should make it a bit more smooth through the mid range.

I also have a Ford VCM suite that im setting up on an old laptop and i will use that to help diagnose what happened.
 
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kevinatfms

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I signed up for a trackcross event with Mach V motorsports on November 17th. So ill have some video from that event along with our last CDC Frederick autocross on October 5th.

Thanks for following!
 

kevinatfms

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Went Friday with one of my buddies to look at some new drivers gear for next year. My current Zamp Helmet is in a bit of disrepair and the Snell SA2010 is going to expire at the first of the year. So, we headed down to OG Racing in Sterling Virginia. They have a MONSTER 12,000sq/ft facility with just about every piece of drivers gear on site.

So after 2 hours of trying on stuff, questions and some stories, i left with a new Snell 2015 certified Bell M8 helmet in white. My son loves the new helmet(as you can tell).
IMG_8660.JPEG


I still need to pick up a new one piece drivers suit(going with the Sparco Competition 2019). My gloves and shoes are still good but i may buy new when i head back down to pick up my suit.

On the Fiesta, i scrubbed off the Sparco logos to clean up the look on the 15's. The logos stood out too much and was an OCD thing for me. Now they look much better.
IMG_5754.JPG
 

Kevins89notch

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Any plans to track it?

For the price, the factory performance pads are exceptionally good and the initial cold bite is astounding. Its surprising how well they work for an OE pad in almost every condition you can throw at it. They will last a light track day and are easily the best autocross pad you can get(transitions are insane with the cold bite). They went around 25k miles before i had to change them. They dust like hell but that is expected with the amount of bite they have.

I swapped to the Hawk HPS 5.0's up front and Hawk HP's in the rear on my last street brake change. I lost initial bite quite a bit(to the point of being a bit unhappy) but they excel when they get hot. For a daily driver there are better pads out there. I have about 15k miles on them now and they still have 5mm left or so. I did overheat the Hawk brake lube at a fast autocross course over a 50+ second run. The lube congealed and then hung the brake pad against the rotor. Felt as if the brake was locked up. Had to pull everything apart and regrease them with a proper nickel based pad lube. Told Hawk about it and they didnt really know what happened and didnt seem to care. Very off putting as if this had happened at a track day id be driving a different car now.

For my next set of street pads though, i will be going back to the OE performance pads. I cant get over losing that initial cold bite.

Current track brake setup is EBC Red Stuff pads with blank rotors. Second set of track day pads that i just picked up on the cheap are the Powerstop PST Advanced Track Day Pads(front and rear). I will also run them with a set of blank rotors. I have heard good reviews from some of the Miata guys on the PST pads and am looking forward to trying them out in different conditions. The EBC pads have been great though and really can take the heat. Dont know why people dont like them.

As far as rotors are concerned.....stick with blanks. No need for slotted unless you want the look. Id spend the extra cash on a set of braided brake lines and a good fluid(RBF600 or 660). After that, invest in some cooling options(fascia ducting/air deflectors).

I just spent some time searching about brakes elsewhere, but decided to stop over here and sure enough you're saying what a lot of others have said.

I'm at 38K miles, factory everything, and my tires are about done. I just had "the works" oil change at Ford and they said my brakes were fine. 2 weeks later, I'm hearing a grinding noise at times. Google says the slide pins run dry sometimes. I bought some lube, popped off the driver's wheel today...and my inner pad is down to about 1%. Thanks Ford service tech. :rolleyes:

I've been looking at maybe getting "upgrades" but from day 1 I LOVED how the brakes felt, unlike some who claim they are grabby. I decided to just rockauto replacement pads and rotors.
 

kevinatfms

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I just spent some time searching about brakes elsewhere, but decided to stop over here and sure enough you're saying what a lot of others have said.

I'm at 38K miles, factory everything, and my tires are about done. I just had "the works" oil change at Ford and they said my brakes were fine. 2 weeks later, I'm hearing a grinding noise at times. Google says the slide pins run dry sometimes. I bought some lube, popped off the driver's wheel today...and my inner pad is down to about 1%. Thanks Ford service tech. :rolleyes:

I've been looking at maybe getting "upgrades" but from day 1 I LOVED how the brakes felt, unlike some who claim they are grabby. I decided to just rockauto replacement pads and rotors.


Ford knocked the stock “performance” pads outta the park. The cold bite is insane and the odd can handle a good amount of heat before fade. It’s the most dual purpose pad I’ve ever used. I am running hawks now and they don’t compare on the cold bite at all.


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