Has anyone else seen Whiteline Rear Uppers crack like this?

Robert M

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i can only assume that my OEM mount uses the smaller boss, and I have no clunking.

And the 05-10 mount bolt is the 139ish ft lbs. the 2011+ requires some crazy amount -- I want to say 350 ft/lbs

I think the 2011-up seat bolt was 200ft.lbs. <<<If I remember correctly.

I had done this multiple times, put car in the air, drop the tank, remove the 2008 oem UCA/UCM, install 2007-2010 BMR, reinstall tank, drive for a few miles over a few weeks.........Then back in the air, drop the tank, remove 2007-2010 BMR and install oem 2011-up for fitment, reinstall tank, drive for a few miles over a few weeks and finally back up in the air, drop tank, remove oem 2011-up UCA/UCM, install 2011-up BMR, reinstall tank and it has been that way for quite a few years.

For my street driven/car show Super Snake I am thinking about going with the 2011-up Roush Anti-Hop UCA and the Eibach Pro Alignment LCA's, both set-ups have tight duro-rubber bushings at all attachment points and will be very street driven friendly for NVH.

The Roush Anti-Hop UCA has always had good street use reviews that I have read and even some weekend racers like that UCA and the Eibach LCA's are newer to the market and are adjustable in length. I believe they will give a oem quite ride and feel, but because they do not have the large doughnut rubber bushings, they do not bounce and act stupid when power is applied.

I just have to get the ambition to do it all over again......up in the air, drop tank....etc. etc......

Here are the Eibachs I am thinking about..........

Eibach Mustang Pro-Alignment Rear Lower Control Arm 5.72345k (05-14 All)

^^^41 reviews 5 stars, sounds like something worth investigating.....

R
 
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PM-Performance

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@Robert M , thanks for the response.
After talking to BMR, they swear the smaller bung should not be an issue since the TQ it takes and should stay in place. So I'll try it out. I just need to source the OEM bolt since my Whiteline is provisioned for the 11+

Do you know the ford part number for the original bolt that goes under the seat on that bung for the 07-09? I have looked through Ford diagrams and parts sites and cannot find anywhere where it mentions this bolt.
 

Robert M

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@Robert M , thanks for the response.
After talking to BMR, they swear the smaller bung should not be an issue since the TQ it takes and should stay in place. So I'll try it out. I just need to source the OEM bolt since my Whiteline is provisioned for the 11+

Do you know the ford part number for the original bolt that goes under the seat on that bung for the 07-09? I have looked through Ford diagrams and parts sites and cannot find anywhere where it mentions this bolt.

No I don't have any Ford info. on bolt part numbers and unfortunately my Ford parts friend changed jobs a few weeks ago and I am without someone who doesn't mind digging into stuff like this........or I would check with him tomorrow, sorry.....

No, I wouldn't think the smaller boss would matter by the time you get all three mounting points tied down and properly torqued. I believe the sheet metal hole that the boss fits in is a little bit oversized anyway from Ford, for ease of assy. line installation. Like I mentioned previously, I put that larger 2011-up boss in my 2008, which means that floor hole was considerably larger than the smaller 2008 boss diameter.

R
 

PM-Performance

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No I don't have any Ford info. on bolt part numbers and unfortunately my Ford parts friend changed jobs a few weeks ago and I am without someone who doesn't mind digging into stuff like this........or I would check with him tomorrow, sorry.....

No, I wouldn't think the smaller boss would matter by the time you get all three mounting points tied down and properly torqued. I believe the sheet metal hole that the boss fits in is a little bit oversized anyway from Ford, for ease of assy. line installation. Like I mentioned previously, I put that larger 2011-up boss in my 2008, which means that floor hole was considerably larger than the smaller 2008 boss diameter.

R
Thanks, yea I am now aware of the size diff between the stock boss and the floor hole. I read reports of this being a common issue though hence the spacers I linked above to rectify it. Now that everyone is saying they did not see shifting, I will trust that won't happen to me. I just now need the new spherical end spacers to fix the slack issues there and find the right bolt. I guess ill go to Granger today and size something up and order it.
Thanks for the info.
 

Catmonkey

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I think the 2011-up seat bolt was 200ft.lbs. <<<If I remember correctly.
Ford's torque spec is 325 lb ft, according to the service manual. BMR recommends a much lower spec in their instructions of 240 lb ft. I had to use a 3' cheater pipe to break mine loose. My torque wrench only goes to 250 lb ft, so I used that to get to that number and put a tug with the 3' cheater pipe.

If you can get a hold of a shop manual, you can get a part number for the bolt from it.
 

PM-Performance

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Ford's torque spec is 325 lb ft, according to the service manual. BMR recommends a much lower spec in their instructions of 240 lb ft. I had to use a 3' cheater pipe to break mine loose. My torque wrench only goes to 250 lb ft, so I used that to get to that number and put a tug with the 3' cheater pipe.

If you can get a hold of a shop manual, you can get a part number for the bolt from it.

I believe I have the shop manual online. Ill check it out. I went to Tasca website though and did not see it listed. Ill try the shop manual and see if they list it.
Thanks for the advice
 

PM-Performance

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@Catmonkey it was that easy! I dont know why I didnt think of that. lol
Part number is W708795. They rate at 129FT\lbs
 

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Catmonkey

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@Catmonkey it was that easy! I dont know why I didnt think of that. lol
Part number is W708795. They rate at 129FT\lbs
I don't think that's the right part no. because when I put it in it's saying it doesn't fit a 2008 Ford Mustang. There's always a chance Ford discontinued the part. While the part number does come out of the service manual, there can be other prefixes and/or suffices to the part number. Usually that number will get you in the ball park. McMaster Carr is a good source for bolts,especially off sizes, if that bolt is not longer available. However, thay are often sold in quantities of more than one.
 

cidsamuth

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Yea, I was thinking about this . . . the two back bolts on the mount are going to hold it in place, regardless to whether there is slop in that front bolt. So, I agree, it's probably a non-issue.
 

cidsamuth

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I talked with Deon at BMR . . . he replaced Kelly as the Ford tech. Funny thing, I was on hold because he was talking to you, OP.

Anyway, he says that using the OEM mount will cause clunking because the stiffer BMR UCA will cause the OEM mount to flex. He didn't seem to think the smaller boss on the mounts was a problem. But, I did find plenty of threads where folks added the bushings to the 05-10 mounts.

Thing is, I don't have any clunking on acceleration like you'd expect if the mount/UCA was the problem. Instead, I have developed it going over light bumps. Sounds like something loose in the trunk. So, I'm not convinced the OEM mount is my problem. I will have to jack mine up and make sure no bolts backed out on the rest of the BMR suspension components.

FYI, if anyone needs it, the larger 2011-2014 UCA front bolt is Ford Part #: W714389-S439. When I eventually change out to the BMR mount, I will upgrade to the 2011+ setup.
 

PM-Performance

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I don't think that's the right part no. because when I put it in it's saying it doesn't fit a 2008 Ford Mustang. There's always a chance Ford discontinued the part. While the part number does come out of the service manual, there can be other prefixes and/or suffices to the part number. Usually that number will get you in the ball park. McMaster Carr is a good source for bolts,especially off sizes, if that bolt is not longer available. However, thay are often sold in quantities of more than one.

They change the suffix. I have the bolt sitting at the dealer for me today and will try.

I talked with Deon at BMR . . . he replaced Kelly as the Ford tech. Funny thing, I was on hold because he was talking to you, OP.

Anyway, he says that using the OEM mount will cause clunking because the stiffer BMR UCA will cause the OEM mount to flex. He didn't seem to think the smaller boss on the mounts was a problem. But, I did find plenty of threads where folks added the bushings to the 05-10 mounts.

Thing is, I don't have any clunking on acceleration like you'd expect if the mount/UCA was the problem. Instead, I have developed it going over light bumps. Sounds like something loose in the trunk. So, I'm not convinced the OEM mount is my problem. I will have to jack mine up and make sure no bolts backed out on the rest of the BMR suspension components.

FYI, if anyone needs it, the larger 2011-2014 UCA front bolt is Ford Part #: W714389-S439. When I eventually change out to the BMR mount, I will upgrade to the 2011+ setup.

Let me tell you how much of a trainwreck this has been. I called him yesterday and was supposed to get me better spacers to fill the slack and then end of day he messages me and tells me to just tighten it and it will work. I told him that is not the fix, but I would do it to show. Sure enough tightening that like he suggested warped the base plate and the holes would not line up to the car. As you can imagine pulling apart 1/4" thick steel flange plate was fun.
I got it back out pretty close and was enough to get the bolts in and tight, but that caused the one bolt to have some stress on it and I think it took some threads with it. Its in and tight, but I dont want to TQ the one back bolt as I am scared its gonna pop the threads completely.
So when people tell me to just trust this stuff will work out, this is why I trust my gut feeling and not tech support sometimes. This thing was NOT right and I made this clear before even starting.
PS: That bung is not centered in the hole either. We will see if it becomes an issue, but at this point I do not plan to remove the bracket unless total failure as I am scared Im gonna lose those threads.
Now I gotta fight to get the arm in and tq'd with the bracket already in place instead of outside the car like most people (and the instructions state)

Honestly, I feel like I should have saved some money and went with something else. I am not liking the BMR coolaid other than the fact they answer the phone and seem nice. That isnt fixing my problems though
 

cidsamuth

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Sorry to hear that. I'm not sure why properly torqueing the front bolt to 139 lbs would warp anything even if the boss is smaller than the hole in the body of the car. But, I will repeat that I was unable to make the BMR 05-09 mount work because the back holes were off. I didn't try to order another, just put the OEM mount back in with the BMR UCA. Note, one of my BMR relocation brackets was a little off also, but it was close enough that I could make it work with some effort.

I spent an hour+ on my back this morning re-torqueing everything, only to find at the end that the top shock bolt (in the trunk) on the right side had backed out considerably (I had done Pedders coilover setup at the same time I installed the BMR stuff). Torqued it down, and my clunk seems to be gone. Confirmed again that I have no clunk on hard acceleration and shifting with my 05-09 UCA paired with the OEM mount -- despite everyone saying it would.

I'll probably still upgrade to the 2011+ mount and UCA at some point before the car goes into winter storage, but I don't see it as a priority now. Perhaps, given all your trouble, just upgrading to the 2011+ stuff would be the right move, as the boss will be big enough to fill that hole.
 

PM-Performance

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You warped the BMR base plate?

The pics I showed a couple pages back showed there was a 4MM gap between the shperical ends. They told me it was a mistake and was sending me new bushings, then later told me its normal and to tighten it and it would bend in.
Well I begrudglinly did it and low and behold the holes didnt line up. So Either it didnt line up before, but doubtful as the intent was for me to bend the ears as per their request.


Sorry to hear that. I'm not sure why properly torqueing the front bolt to 139 lbs would warp anything even if the boss is smaller than the hole in the body of the car. But, I will repeat that I was unable to make the BMR 05-09 mount work because the back holes were off. I didn't try to order another, just put the OEM mount back in with the BMR UCA. Note, one of my BMR relocation brackets was a little off also, but it was close enough that I could make it work with some effort.

I spent an hour+ on my back this morning re-torqueing everything, only to find at the end that the top shock bolt (in the trunk) on the right side had backed out considerably (I had done Pedders coilover setup at the same time I installed the BMR stuff). Torqued it down, and my clunk seems to be gone. Confirmed again that I have no clunk on hard acceleration and shifting with my 05-09 UCA paired with the OEM mount -- despite everyone saying it would.

I'll probably still upgrade to the 2011+ mount and UCA at some point before the car goes into winter storage, but I don't see it as a priority now. Perhaps, given all your trouble, just upgrading to the 2011+ stuff would be the right move, as the boss will be big enough to fill that hole.

I didnt tq the front one yet as I dont have the bolt. But the rears did not line up and I assumed because they wanted me to bend the thing in, that caused the issue. maybe I am wrong, but common sense tells me that is the case.
I will not pull the bracket out now though as I am scared about the threads from what I had to go through to get it in. So its in for the long haul unless the arm fights me. And honestly, Ill just sell the damn car at that point if its gotta come out. Im that frustrated with it.
 

fullboogie

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I like BMR's stuff in general and have it on my car, but their tech help has always been severely lacking. You are doing the right thing by investigating with your own eyes.
 
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Black Cobra '99

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Well, I think something amiss here, BMR is the go to brand for suspension links and I've never heard of something like this before. I have BMR's UCA and bracket, I installed them myself and everything went together with no issue. I've had them for 4 years and everything is running perfectly, and this is most people experience.

This isn't to discredit you OP, I just think there is something other than BMR is doing it wrong. I think you are doing the right thing by double checking everything, but its strange to hear this after all these years.
 

cidsamuth

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Since I had an issue with the back holes on the BMR bracket just a couple months ago, I think this whole saga with BMR started for two reasons:

1) The OP was concerned about the size of the front boss, which is likely a non issue, since the back two bolts would prevent movement once properly torqued to 85 ft/lbs.

2) Like with me the back holes didn't work, and in his frustration, he forced it on, which MIGHT have ripped out the threads in one of the back holes.

When I returned my mount, Kelly had told me that, if the worker pulled it off the jig too soon after welding and before it properly cooled, this would have caused the alignment issue I saw. He speculated that's what happened with mine, and perhaps the OP's mount came out of the same batch?
 

PM-Performance

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Well, I think something amiss here, BMR is the go to brand for suspension links and I've never heard of something like this before. I have BMR's UCA and bracket, I installed them myself and everything went together with no issue. I've had them for 4 years and everything is running perfectly, and this is most people experience.

This isn't to discredit you OP, I just think there is something other than BMR is doing it wrong. I think you are doing the right thing by double checking everything, but its strange to hear this after all these years.

Other people have mentioned the same thing as I am having problems with. Some people are more vocal than others. I posted this stuff on FB and was quickly hushed by the D Riders. There are obvious issues here.
A 4-5MM gap between the baseplate opening and the Spherical end is not a ME issue. Them telling me to just tighten it and it will work out in the wash and then pulling in the entire opening including the baseplate holes is not a ME issue either.
 

PM-Performance

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Since I had an issue with the back holes on the BMR bracket just a couple months ago, I think this whole saga with BMR started for two reasons:

1) The OP was concerned about the size of the front boss, which is likely a non issue, since the back two bolts would prevent movement once properly torqued to 85 ft/lbs.

2) Like with me the back holes didn't work, and in his frustration, he forced it on, which MIGHT have ripped out the threads in one of the back holes.

When I returned my mount, Kelly had told me that, if the worker pulled it off the jig too soon after welding and before it properly cooled, this would have caused the alignment issue I saw. He speculated that's what happened with mine, and perhaps the OP's mount came out of the same batch?


Thanks for understanding. I get it , stuff happens. But when the other guys try to discredit the guys having issues and force them to remove comments to avoid further shaming, this silences the issues they have and makes it seem like they don't have issues.
Truth is, quite a few people reached out to me and let me know they have had MANY issues with BMR quality.
I am not sure this is quite as isolated as a JUST ME thing as people are trying to make this seem.

My point about the Boss was that they could have just updated the design like other companies have. That was nitpicking a tad, but a real reason why. The clearances issue on the other part is a MUCH bigger deal. Because this is Chinese tolerance for the price of American product.
 

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