When too walk away from a performance shop
- Thread starter budman5023
- Start date
There's one around here where you can rent dyno time, but with their fees and everything it costs just as much if not more than some dyno sessions with tuners.
This is an important lesson (and one of the big advantages of running something like MS3 or TunerPro.)
I've been down this road before. A lot of shops do this kind of crap. The date is always slipping, the work is lousy, and they're just after a quick buck and padding the bill as much as they can.
Call them up, ask what the hold up is, and tell them you need an honest, no BS date. If the car is not ready, you are going to be there that morning at 8am with a trailer to take your car out, and they better have all your parts.
I had to do the exact same thing with a big reputable shop. My 6 week quote for a complete turbo system turned into 6 months for a hot side that didn't fit and a half disassembled car. He was honestly shocked when I showed up, and I had to try and gather together all the parts that were missing, and I was still missing a few when I left.
Which all brings me back to doing it yourself. At least then you're not at their mercy, and half the time you end up having to redo it yourself to do it right anyway. That shoddy hotside had to be completely redone, and I had to build the cold side anyway. Same thing happened with a certain tuner that was highly reputable here and swore my car was untuneable after a year and half a dozen revisions, all undriveable. I had it driveable myself within a couple tries, and now it's absolutely beautiful.
There are two in my area that rent out dyno by the hour. It is a huge chunk of their business.
I am still struggling to understand what you paid $5k for.
I bet if you had more youtube subscribers and twitter/ Instagram followers though...
So what’s the shop name?
OP wants to get his car out of the shop before he names them...
Id like to see the car. I love seeing road course spec'd sn95s and new edge's. And OP since you got absolutely hosed by that shop, once you are touring and if ever in the north west, I can hook you up with a track day at our world class private track.
This sounds like a huge liability in general. A proper dyno setup isnt cheap either, then add multiple ones in the same location. Heat/air/ CO controls exhaust room pressure control, dyno pit temp controls ( for eddies), sound dampening, proper anchoring for high torque vehicles (not gassers), compressed air headers, supply fan setup(s), optical sensors, opacity meters, 5 gas analyzers, cameras all drive the cost up. However, we use ours for mainly R&D and mass calibrations.
There are DIY shops like that on most every base in the military.
I have seen some start ups like that in the private sector, only to close up in few years.
Probably for the reasons you have mentioned..liability, stolen tools..broken tools...vehicles hogging space..left behind..stolen..etc..etc..
we have some hobby shops here. i was more so talking about a dyno hobby shop would be a nightmare.
A little update. So to some unforeseen family incident, I didn't get the car back when I wanted too. I had another talk with the shop and decided to just let them finish it. I did eventually get the car back. Now I am torn. The amount of work done and quality of work is very good. Labor $ is questionable. After all the extra quality parts including a $1900 fuel system and even more labor, the price skyrocketed. I was considering just walking away from the car. I just went ahead and paid the bill. I don't know if I want to name the shop. I have to think about it. What I did learn and probably other young and/or new car modders paying for someone else to do the work is to keep on your project, buy your own parts, be prepared to look elsewhere, and if they can't keep the deadline, well you have your answer. In reality, learn to do it all yourself. I am sure other people will chime in with their opinions. Nothing better then experience. Thanks for reading guys. If you are interested, I do have a build thread for the car. Not to many pics but that should change. Still trying to get my mother back on her feet.
For **** sake, if you don't name the shop, you're possibly letting someone else get trapped like you did.
At this point just make it a public service announcement.
At this point just make it a public service announcement.
Name the shop and link the build thread.
Sorry to hear of all the hassles you had with it but now just enjoy the car. Don’t let the experience with that shop ruin the enjoyment of your car.
Ken
Sorry to hear of all the hassles you had with it but now just enjoy the car. Don’t let the experience with that shop ruin the enjoyment of your car.
Ken
I’m more shocked that people dump 5K+ into SN95/New Edge GT’s. Maybe for the complete cost of a build but for one part of it?
Name the shop if you're never going to use them again. I've used a shop for 10 years for two of my Mustangs. One time the car was there for 7 months when it should've been done in a month. I provided all the parts when dropping off other than some fuel hose and fittings. It was also over winter so I wasn't that concerned about getting it back. There were some other bigger builds that were happening during this time plus quite a few Street Outlaw No Prep events that the owner was going to every or every other weekend with the shop car. Also the shop is a one man show so having 10+ Mustangs sit at his shop at a given time is not unusual. Anyway the car got done and tuned for a very reasonable cash price. In your case I think you were extremely mislead in what was needed for your car just to ramp up the bill.
I’m more shocked that people dump 5K+ into SN95/New Edge GT’s. Maybe for the complete cost of a build but for one part of it?
In my area(2hrs drive one way included) you cannot get someone to rebuild a mod 2v for under 6k.
That was 4 years ago mind you.
That was a full longblock with upgrades internals and a full head go over.
It was and is sickening.
Sent from my POFS iPhone in a rage cause this is the third try.
You have to be a little more specific as if all parts are included meaning new rotating assembly, cams, springs, valves, seals, arp hardware etc., then $6k is reasonable. If you mean just looking over the heads and not replacing anything then yes it is high.
Users who are viewing this thread
