97 Cobra Restomod - Snow Pony

Makobra said:

Here's a screenshot from the development for clarity. basically uses all the stock mounting points so since the weight of the car is riding on the frame instead of the rear shock tower I won't need to reinforce that. Of course things could change but welding up that stuff won't be an issue since I'm using POR15 on the inside of the car. if I have to grind anything away to weld anything in the future i'll just brush some of that on when I'm done.

View attachment 1592170

and no, i won't be going as low as this guy in the video.

here's the video

Click to expand...

Yes, KW's V3 kit also puts the rear spring in the stock location. Nice to see BC doing the same.

I have the KW V3 setup on my car. I had the usual MM stuff (Koni's AND Bilstein's), coil-over all the way around. Let me tell you, no business to have a coilover on the rear of an IRS for a street driven car. Separate shock and coil setup like factory on the rear is the way to go. Look at the FR500 prototype from FORD, and what they did on the rear IRS, stock location shock and spring. Front end was a whole different story.

just so you know other options exist.

I have the Feal coilovers on front and rear of my 99 irs cobra. no issues on the track with my setup. drives fine on the street too, adjustable damper. 8k front, 10k rear springs.

rear setup is true coilover configuration


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I had no idea about the feal coils, those look nice! pricey too

Today I shaved the hood prop stuff. This concludes my known wishlist for the bay so now I'll just be getting it all ready for primer and making sure the wire tuck stuff all goes smoothly. I'm keeping the stock fuse box and washer reservoir locations, I really just don't think I can improve on that. the battery will go in the trunk, of course.

This is awesome!

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Pressing you again,,,but info on battery relocate and schematic would be nice when you get to that point in the build..Please..

I plan on doing one with fuseable links..as simple as possible ..."someday."

I'll document everything but presently I have no idea on how im gonna do it. I found a sweet billet optima mount and I'm thinking of putting it between the strut towers.

when I said everything is getting done... i meant everything. relooming the engine bay. but not before I make some improvements for the wire situation.



I added a lip and some tabs on this side to protect the wire loom in case of rubbing.





this side is slightly different because this is the material I had on hand.





this will all be loomed in nylon mesh like everything else.

That is a great idea... much more elegant than the drilling holes and using zip ties that I normally see people do.

Nice work. Looks like a great build. Looking forward to seeing it when its done.

I decided on an official fusebox location. the stock place was fine but it had 2 issues.

1. moving the battery left that big open spot
2. the wiring harness.

while not the worst thing in the world (because I'm going to make the harness look really nice) its just unnecessary so i fiddled around and came up with this routing that puts all the wires in a hole I made in the car.





notice how you don't see edges in the hole. thats because i hammer and dollied the edge to make it round. the last thing you want is your car eating into your wiring harness.



This is the underside where you can see the edge rolled.

very nice im enjoying your attention to detail

wiring harness is sorted enough to know where I needed to put some new holes.
I did the same rolling with the hole on the passenger side. Monday my 99 cobra strut brace should be in.

I'm test fitting all this stuff now to make sure I don't weld up or cut off something I actually need later on.
I got the 99 strut brace because I have a mach 1 intake and a base mustang hood so I'll be installing that with the hood while the car is in the air to verify my theory that it'll clear and if it doesn't hopefully I can just carefully tweak it a smidge.

Any updates? This build has a lot of potential. Love the color choice too.

Got my MM strut tower brace in today. as you all probably know nobody makes one for a 96-98 cobra so after careful consideration I decided to roll the dice on a 99 cobra one since I have a mach 1 intake. it actually latches on the safety latch so its pretty close already.

I knew it wouldn't just fit so no worries at all. What you see here is my figuring out exactly how it won't fit and me deciding if I need to notch the hood or the bar. right now im choosing the hood. I think I can get another half inch out of the bar if I need to but that can all happen after the engine is in the car.

the test fitting underway is mainly so I can go ahead and install the holes/brackets for the STB so I'm not drilling holes AFTER paint.




the blue tape is where the hood hits.




the plan is after I get the clearance I need fiberglass the hole to make it look factory before paint.

any reason you didn't opt to use the factor 96/97 strut tower brace?

a few reasons.

1. i'm using the GT/v6 hood so that could have the same clearance issue there
2. i have a 99 cobra engine and i'm really more concerned about the engine clearing than the body stuff.
3. this one gives more clearance for a larger intake which is why I suspect I'm having to clearance the hood.

I can tweak the STB pretty easily and if notching the hood a little gets me more intake clearance I'm happy with that.

theory confirmed! all of the bolt holes do not line up but this sucker fits like a glove. hood clearance? oh you're gonna have to notch the underside bracing but nothing that wasn't superfluous to begin with.

so why this? that big loop on the passenger side (the reason you have to notch the hood) gives a lot more room for an intake pipe.

now i KNOW the STB will clear my 99 intake 4v and the best news is my stock GT/V6 hood clears ALL of this. barely but barely is close enough.



that bar looks really high but i test fit the hood without the bumpers and it clears even with the hood bottomed out. I plan on adding some padding to the bottom of the hood once its all painted to keep the hood from going flippity floppity at speed.

this is how im securing the nuts on the backside. so the STB can be uninstalled and reinstalled easily.

I didn't like the idea of having to fiddle with nuts behind this huge motor someday so I welded some square nuts in place.
still test fitting, i'll clean it all up and make it pretty when paint time comes.

Awesome