Something amiss with N2MB Wot Box install

PM-Performance

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Maybe its as simple as the box is defective, could you send box back to them for diagnostics?

Yea I gotta test with another box. I am not overly confident in their troubleshooting at this point.
Wanted someone to doublecheck my logic on wiring. I went by Gt schematics assuming the wiring is the same?
 

PM-Performance

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Ok,
So I found someone to test my box and theirs did not work in my car, and mine worked in theirs.

So this tells me either I screwed up wiring, or some loose pins in the connector.

Can anyone double check my wiring here?
Ok, so I did the following:
Blue wire went to white wire on the middle plug (pin 17)
Green wire went to the other white wire on the middle plug (pin 39)
Yellow wire went to black/pink wire on the bottom plug ( pin 47)
Flipped over the fuse box and split the set of red wires by fuse 40 I think it was and the red wire went into the ones into the fuze box
Orange went into the other cut ends that goes into the harness.
 

ZOMBEAST

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Just checked my notes that were in my 2009 shop manual, and that's exactly how I did it on my 09. Only thing is, I've not had a chance to check it's operation yet, with exception of the blinking light checks and the programming. I would maybe check the male and female connections at the PCM. Hopefully the serial programming cable is good too.
 

PM-Performance

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Just checked my notes that were in my 2009 shop manual, and that's exactly how I did it on my 09. Only thing is, I've not had a chance to check it's operation yet, with exception of the blinking light checks and the programming. I would maybe check the male and female connections at the PCM. Hopefully the serial programming cable is good too.


Can you test yours? Light operation works fine for me as well. Do you have the shop manual digital to share? Or actual paperback book?
I would think if an issue with pins at the ecu, I would be seeing issues past the WOT box not taking commands. I would be getting throttle/clutch/rpm/ignition issues all over the board.
Its simply not responding to commands.

Now one thing I will say is one of the pins on the serial connection on the box looks barely soldered, but N2MB said it is fine. It is communicating and pulling data and saving the data. It is just not sending the commands to my car for some reason.
 

PM-Performance

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Meant that you need to make sure none of the pins are causing the box to lose a signal. Your ignition is wired correctly, otherwise the car wouldnt run.

Now that I re read this, I see you mean at the Wotbox itself and not the ECU. My mistake.
How did you correct this? Just pinch the pins in more with needle nose ?
I am really wondering if it is something at the connector. I thought maybe a wire not fully pushed in. I drove out to test my box and the clutch was really strange feeling and RPM's hanging. When I switch the other guys box in and out and then mine back in, things feel fine again with the clutch.
Cooincidentally when I do clutch first or gas first and then the other to test voltages on the box it gives a communication error now and again. Does it need both at the same time and not one after the other to see clutch and gas down?
 

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Can you test yours? Light operation works fine for me as well. Do you have the shop manual digital to share? Or actual paperback book?
I would think if an issue with pins at the ecu, I would be seeing issues past the WOT box not taking commands. I would be getting throttle/clutch/rpm/ignition issues all over the board.
Its simply not responding to commands.

Now one thing I will say is one of the pins on the serial connection on the box looks barely soldered, but N2MB said it is fine. It is communicating and pulling data and saving the data. It is just not sending the commands to my car for some reason.

I don't expect to have the car out for a couple of weeks. If you pm your e-mail, I can shoot you scans of the middle and bottom pcm connectors.
 

PM-Performance

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No ideas?
I double checked wiring against schematics and all correct.
I traced voltage out of each pin at the connector and seeing all the correct voltages. Only difference is the clutch signal gives a 0V up and 12V down instead of 5. When the box is plugged in, it converts to 5V, so I assume thats in the chip.

If I am in accessory and simultate a no lift shift, I can hear my HE fans slow down when clutch down and then speed back up when it triggers back to full load again. I cannot get it to cut with the car on though which is strange.
I believe I watched the voltage swing on the Orange wire as well doing this and I forget the result, but I think it dipped the voltage not not to a 0V by any means. Maybe 5V
 

PM-Performance

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How or where are you checking the voltage to the orange wire?

With a Voltmeter. Box unplugged kills the circuit so it shouldnt get any voltage.
With the box plugged in and the car in accessory or on, it should complete the circuit and show 12V

Now when the box interrupts when it hits its threshold, logic tells me voltage across the coil should get cut since that is basically the entire purpose of the box. I am just not sure what I am missing here with the cut or what exact value to look for.
 

PM-Performance

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How or where are you checking the voltage to the orange wire?

Now that I am thinking about this more as well, i cannot imagine there should be a 12V drop when it cuts, else the car would shut off. So maybe seeing 5-6V on that wire is correct.

This is bugging me though on the fans slowing down when simulating a NLSFT on accessory. I am wondering if whomever wired the HX/IC Pump wired off the coil wires somewhere else maybe.
Is it safe to assume the AFCO stock wiring or Ford Stock wiring is not set to turn on the Fans or IC pump on accessory so I know if I should be tracing out those wires now too?
 

PM-Performance

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So I figured the correlation to the HX Fans slowing down when simulating the issue. Looks like when Brenspeed built the car they took a wire into the Ignition transformer capacitor so the pump and fans stay on with KOEO.
Looks like that thing goes right in line with Fuse40 which as you guessed it, is the wire that controls cutting the timing as it is the power to the coil packs.
Now I gotta figure how this may correlate to my issue.
 

PM-Performance

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UPDATE:

I clipped the HX Fan/Pump off that wire and tested and son of a @#$%$^&*&( it works now.
Somehow tapping into that line for KOEO power screwed with its ability to cut timing. I still do not understand why, but it fixed it. Now I need to find a good source for KOEO power for my pump so I can run it in the pits and let it cycle to cool down.

I have a suspicion this caused my pump to die a couple times on me since putting this box in now as well. The timing is too cooincidental
 

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