New Owner, Some issues to sort out.

Catmonkey

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I think he's talking about a crank relearn. I think there's a lot of confusion over this procedure which is said to apply to 11+ Mustangs. My understanding is it's a Coyote thing. I can tell you I've had my transmission out of the car twice and my engine apart the same number of times, and I've never done, nor had to do, a crank relearn. Unless you see a P0315 code, I wouldn't go attempting it.
 

Pauliejr

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I think he's talking about a crank relearn. I think there's a lot of confusion over this procedure which is said to apply to 11+ Mustangs. My understanding is it's a Coyote thing. I can tell you I've had my transmission out of the car twice and my engine apart the same number of times, and I've never done, nor had to do, a crank relearn. Unless you see a P0315 code, I wouldn't go attempting it.


I did a crank relearn anyway the other day
 

Pauliejr

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A little update from everyone. I was able to return my other vehicle to stock and unlock my x4

I loaded the “GT500” base tune on the tuner. No change in the “wrench” light. Comes on immediately.

I did find a SMALL hairline crack on the u derided of the intake tube. Not sure if this has anything to do with it or could cause this. My filter is also dirty.

I checked the throttle body wires. They look fine.
 

Pauliejr

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I hooked up FORScan and found codes in the system.

I’m getting a code in reference to no communication to fuel pump module b.

There are 2 of these as it seems in the spare trunk area.

I actually swapped them and the issue did not follow to A so I assume both modules are ok? Any ideas

I did notice there are 20amp fused in these spots where the manual calls for 25 on the Shelby. Could that cause an issue?
 

Pauliejr

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UPDATE:

FORScan helped me get the information I needed so I knew where to even start. In the GT500 engine fuse panel, there are 2 fuses 13,14 I believe that are for both of the fuel pumps/modules.

The updated schematic actually calls for a 20amp fuse on 14 and a 25 amp on the 13 (Shelby only)

I Swapped out the 20amp for the correct 25amp fuse, cleared the computers and BOOM no more code.

I figured having a lower amp fuse in there would not cause an issue/ and it it was demanding more than 20amps, would it blow?

Very strange but wanted to update you all.

I appreciate all of the help.
 

Catmonkey

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Unless you deliberately clear a DTC, it usually takes the computer a little while to figure out something that was causing a fault is no longer an issue. I even did this last week on my truck. I installed catch cans on it and forgot to plug in the air temp sensor. It was end of day, so I looked up the code the next morning and remembered what I'd done. I plugged in the sensor and the code was still there. Stopped the truck and cleared the DTC and the light was gone on the next start.

Swapping fuses is not something I would expect to throw a trouble code. I think it was something else you did along the way and coincidentally cleared on that start. Let's hope it stays gone.
 

Pauliejr

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I forcefully cleared the DTC as well as the PCM and all modules through FORScan. I had an IMMEDIATE return of the code on startup.

I drove the car 10 miles last night after the fix and again this morning about 7 miles to work to test it out.

So far so good. What makes me think it’s fixed is the fact that it would come on 3 seconds after startup since it was an instant communication failure.

This also explains why once about 3 days ago my fuel gauge magically dropped within about 5 miles.

My understanding is these cars have 2 fuel pumps on both sides of the saddle tank. Seems like one was not operational.

Either way, the Manila calls for a 25 amp fuse on the Shelby so this needed to be changed either way.
 

Norton

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Unless you deliberately clear a DTC, it usually takes the computer a little while to figure out something that was causing a fault is no longer an issue.

Swapping fuses is not something I would expect to throw a trouble code.
+1 to all of this, unless the fuse you swapped was bad/fried.

My understanding is these cars have 2 fuel pumps on both sides of the saddle tank. Seems like one was not operational.
They do and I agree, that one may not have been operational (due to a bad/fried fuse?). If this was the case, you'd be OK toodling around town and maybe even getting on it a little. You would, however, starve for fuel and end up in a dangerous lean situation if you ran at high RPM/boost for very long.
 

tomshep

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Did the shocks also start working?

The default on the shocks if they aren't working is Sport. If they are still locked in Sport I would start by examining the electrical connections at the bottom of the struts and top of the shocks.

Tom
 

Pauliejr

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Did the shocks also start working?

The default on the shocks if they aren't working is Sport. If they are still locked in Sport I would start by examining the electrical connections at the bottom of the struts and top of the shocks.

Tom


This was my next task. It will default to sport. However I’m not too mad at this ATM. Was prioritizing the Wrench light for safety reasons.
 

Pauliejr

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+1 to all of this, unless the fuse you swapped was bad/fried.


They do and I agree, that one may not have been operational (due to a bad/fried fuse?). If this was the case, you'd be OK toodling around town and maybe even getting on it a little. You would, however, starve for fuel and end up in a dangerous lean situation if you ran at high RPM/boost for very long.


On the bright side I’m still breaking in my clutch so I have been easy on here.

It’s possible the fuse wasn’t functioning as needed. It was not blown, however who knows. I have driven a few cycles with no issues. I also fiddled with the modules as well.

I put in a fresh set of plugs tonight also.

I’ve always been a fan of maintenance when previous care is unknown.

Next is a new air filter however I’d prefer to get a car but I’m being patient
 

biminiLX

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Just reading all of this and I’d be very inclined to believe the car was modded and returned to stock.
The SC pulley cap is gone so it’s 99% certain someone has swapped pulleys.
The changed fuel pump fuse and need for a clutch also support it being previously modded?
I would have guess the wrench was from a return to stock with tunes being corrected (ex-previous TB on car).
The wrench could also be from the clutch swap, but I’ve had lower pulleys swapped, clutch and trans changed and never did a crank relearn.
All that said, do you have any way to try and find the previous owner? Will the dealer you purchased from help? If you can connect to the previous owner, the majority of the questions can be easily answered.
Do you have a local Mustang shop you trust/like?
Do you want to keep it stock/what are the goals with the car?

The good news is that the car looks clean and has low miles with a new clutch.
As long as it’s sound mechanically/internally, these cars can be modded to 750rwhp easily and reliably.
Many of us here have been through almost every mod, so lots of good guys here to help.
Good luck.
-J
 

biminiLX

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And yes, swap rear gears and run drag radials. Those mods alone with the SCT tune will make it an animal. :)
-J
 

Pauliejr

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Just reading all of this and I’d be very inclined to believe the car was modded and returned to stock.
The SC pulley cap is gone so it’s 99% certain someone has swapped pulleys.
The changed fuel pump fuse and need for a clutch also support it being previously modded?
I would have guess the wrench was from a return to stock with tunes being corrected (ex-previous TB on car).
The wrench could also be from the clutch swap, but I’ve had lower pulleys swapped, clutch and trans changed and never did a crank relearn.
All that said, do you have any way to try and find the previous owner? Will the dealer you purchased from help? If you can connect to the previous owner, the majority of the questions can be easily answered.
Do you have a local Mustang shop you trust/like?
Do you want to keep it stock/what are the goals with the car?

The good news is that the car looks clean and has low miles with a new clutch.
As long as it’s sound mechanically/internally, these cars can be modded to 750rwhp easily and reliably.
Many of us here have been through almost every mod, so lots of good guys here to help.
Good luck.
-J


I use mustang magic for all of my cars.

The wrench was 100% relayed to Fuel Pump Control Module as I accessed all the codes and ran scans on EVERY module

I later found the VDC Code for open circuit rear shocks. Turns out the tears were unplugged and I have solved the Driving Mode issue as well.

The pulley cap was there/ but was proven off. I removed it.

I also inspected the intake and found out they did the “resonator tube delete”

So the vehicle has definitely been “modded” however does not seems to be anything over the top as there are no other tell tale signs of this as most things looks Untouched.

Hopefully the fuel pump module does not present itself again and I will be good to go.

The clutch was done by mustang magic and the owner drove and inspected the vehicle and checked out the mechanical condition.

I will be modding soon after I assure myself that the car is read to do so.

For now I will start with some minor things and visual mods
 

biminiLX

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Good deal, I’ve always heard good things about them. I’d still really try and find the previous owner.
The fuel pump module and unplugged rear shocks sound like there’s been fuel pump boosters and rear drag shocks at some point.
Like I said before and you’ve already done, if the car checks out, no worries.
Might want to verify the rear gears. The stock 3.31s are a joke, so if you don’t have gear whine, they may have already been upgraded the right way. If you do have 3.31s, you’ll love the car much more with gears and sticky tires.
If the car is solid, what is you’re goal with it?
-J
 

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