Where did you send off your Bosch ABS module to get fixed?

texas_snake

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So for those that finally got around to fixing their ABS module (due to the great Bosch module failing), is there a place you used that worked out well? I am looking to send one off by Monday. I want to use a place that offers lifetime guarantee. I know Ebay offers some services and there might be one or two other companies. So a good reference would be very helpful. Also I need a quick turnaround.

Thanks in advance.
 

JetmechF16

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I don't remember which Cobra I repaired the ABS on, but I used cheap-abs.com and never had any other issues out of it. They have a "lifetime warranty" where they pretty much say if it fails again, send it back anytime and they will repair for free if it was their original fix that failed.
 
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texas_snake

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Sent off my ABS module to cheapabs.com today. We will see how things work out.

If you are removing this, just plan to remove it by pulling the brake lines. Some imply you can remove the module without taking the entire unit out, I can't imagine how that is done with how hard the torx would be to remove the abs module from the pump. If you move things out of the way like the air filter housing, it can go quickly. LMR has a very good video on this (they show replacing it with a non abs block, but removal is the same).
 

01yellercobra

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Sent off my ABS module to cheapabs.com today. We will see how things work out.

If you are removing this, just plan to remove it by pulling the brake lines. Some imply you can remove the module without taking the entire unit out, I can't imagine how that is done with how hard the torx would be to remove the abs module from the pump. If you move things out of the way like the air filter housing, it can go quickly. LMR has a very good video on this (they show replacing it with a non abs block, but removal is the same).

I was able to swap just the module out on mine. I don't remember every step as it was a while ago. But I do know I unbolted the bracket and was able to swing it over a little with the play in the lines. The only downside is now I have a code for a mismatched module. But the ABS light is off.
 

texas_snake

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Thanks for the reply. One thing that has not been clear to me is why there are different modules for mustang sub-types. You would think the abs is just a standard function of the braking system when the wheel sensor detects slipping (or lack of wheel rotation when other wheels are turning). So there might be ABS with Traction control or ABS without.

But... it seems there are several sub types (v6, gt, mach 1 uses "cobra" likely based on 99 or 01, cobra for the 03/04). Don't know why the ABS needs to know that or have slightly different programming.
 

01yellercobra

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My guess would be because of the difference in brake sizes and caliper sizes. Also the V6 has vacuum assist compared to the hydroboost on the V8's.
 

texas_snake

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Got the ABS module back very quickly. Matt was able to fix it quickly. Got it put in and I had to bleed the system fully. I put through a large bottle+ of synth brake fluid. I don't see the ABS light anymore which is GREAT after starting it. But right now after doing all 4 tires I have VERY low brake pressure (with engine on or off). Thought I got the air out, but after 15 plus brake jobs in my life, I have never dealt with a system that lost this much fluid. So I am assuming it still has lots of air. Not currently safe to drive.

Does it require several passes to get all the air out? Was using a bottle with some fluid and having another person pump like I always do. I might use a vacuum tool this time around. Just hoping this is only a pressure issue. I can't imagine the module is causing this since the engine is off and still no real pressure.

Advice welcomed. Thanks.
 

Bdubbs

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I bought the motive kit. Bled my brakes for the first time last year I believe. Super easy, works great.
IMG_20180531_214021195_zpspm5ip7ik.jpg


Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

JetmechF16

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Be sure to bleed your master cylinder first, there are two bleed screws on the side below the reservoir. All you have to do is connect a rubber hose to the screw and loop it back into the reservoir below the fluid level. Have someone pump the brakes and hold while you loosen the bleeder to let air out. Repeat with the other screw then bleed the calipers starting with furthest from MC working towards closest.
 

texas_snake

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ah... Good point. Since it lost all the fluid, I need to bleed the master cylinder again. That has to be part of it. I did start passenger back, then driver back, then passenger front, then driver front.

Thanks so much!!!
 

DSG2003Mach1

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my understanding is it can be a royal pain in the ass to bleed that ABS block. I would definitely be looking into a mechanical means of doing it at this point
 

texas_snake

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So I bled the Master Cylinder and immediately the pressure came back. Lots of air stuck in there. Then I bled all 4 wheels farthest first. The pedal pressure is better than before and maybe just a 1/2 inch of play till tight with the engine off.

I road tested it and got the front to start to lock and got the ABS to kick in. Seemed OK. I might do one more Master Cylinder bleed down the road as I assume any ABS bubbles will rise to the top.

Thanks for the advice.
 

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