I’m thinking at this point since my filter is dirty and I was thinking about swapping the intake, would it be safe to say swapping the intake, and getting a basic tune would be a safe place to start given the unknown situation?
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New Owner, Some issues to sort out.
- Thread starter Pauliejr
- Start date
If it's not the stock upper, it's real close. It's not a 2.4". The fact that the plastic front part of the button that goes through the threaded hole in rotor shaft is damaged may be a clue that someone has tampered with it along the way. On the other hand it could have stayed stock its whole life. I'd load the SCT canned tune and see if your results are any different on the warning lights. Post the exact DCT codes you've found. Is the rough idle occurring when the "wrench" light is on? The engine will run pretty crappy in limp mode.
I reset the battery overnight. The wrench light turns on 3 seconds after startup and stays on 100% of the time. No DCT codes are being thrown or detectable by the SCT.
Is there a way to scan the wrench light?
As I previously had stated I did get a misfire code when I started driving the car frequently, however it has not come back after fuel cleaner and new gas.
On the other hand I did not have wrench light when I purchased it, and for the first week or so. It did turn on 2 or 3 times but would go away on a new startup.
It is on 100% of the time now.
Maybe someone will post a similar experience. Whenever I've gone into limp mode, there are codes associated with it. Perhaps it has something to do with the electronic shocks as suggested. My car's a 2012, so I don't have any of those features.
I was also able to find this in reference to the normal/sport suspension modes. When I move this appears. When I come to a stop/ it goes to normal no fault. This I believe to be a separate topic as I have not read this throws any sort of code what so ever as people swap out or disconnect the shocks with no issues.
I've always been led to believe the wrench light is triggered by a hiccup in the throttle body/drive by wire system. It could be tune related and it could be a mechanical issue. If you could find someone with a good throttle body to swap, I'd give that a shot, if the SCT tune doesn't do anything.
So I forgot to return my car to stock before I sold it so my SCT tuner is still locked to the car however I think I can swing by the dealer and load my stock tune back in to unlock it my tuner was originally for my 2016 GT once I return it to stock I know I will be able to use it on this car however where do I get a canned tune from since it was originally set up for the 2016 GT I got it from my local tuner it did not come from an online tuning company is there a Tune saved on there that will work or do I need to download a canned tune or something
Go to the SCT website and download the updater. Do a an update firmware/software onto your computer. Believe it or not all of SCT's canned tunes are on that flash tool. It's intuitive to know what tune to load. Plug it in and follow the commands. This is just a test to see if it clears up any of your issues. If not, just return it to stock. You now have a flash tool to upload any custom tunes when you're ready for them.
@Catmonkey is right about the "Wrench" light normally being powertrain-related. According to page 94 of the Owner's Manual, the "Powertrain Malfunction/Reduced Power" light "Illuminates when a powertrain fault has been detected. Contact your authorized dealer as soon as possible."
Knowing that I read about the "Wrench light always on" symptom like yours, however, I set upon finding it. It was diagnosed in this thread, by Van@RevanRacing. Given your additional symptom of being unable to change suspension modes, it seems worth investigating to me...
All of that said, I would not introduce any additional variables to your situation (e.g., different intake, new/different tune, etc) until you diagnose what's going on. If the air filter is dirty, simply replace it. You can always add a CAI and tune, AFTER you've got things figured out.
Knowing that I read about the "Wrench light always on" symptom like yours, however, I set upon finding it. It was diagnosed in this thread, by Van@RevanRacing. Given your additional symptom of being unable to change suspension modes, it seems worth investigating to me...
All of that said, I would not introduce any additional variables to your situation (e.g., different intake, new/different tune, etc) until you diagnose what's going on. If the air filter is dirty, simply replace it. You can always add a CAI and tune, AFTER you've got things figured out.
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Unless you turned traction control off in your photo, I'm thinking it could have something to do with that. AFAIK, any traction control/advance track overrides resume once the ignition is cycled. If yours is staying off, there's an issue or a fault somewhere. I'm sure the dealer has other devices to sort out those types of issues that you're not going to find with a flash tool. I have no idea where the harness is that Van mentions in that thread, so I don't know where to tell you to look.
You have two electrical connectors on the throttle body. Why don't you try unplugging and plugging those connectors back in and see if it does anything. It's grabbing at straws, but it's easy to do.
Could this at all be related to having my clutch changed out? I did have the wrench like on and off and has been on 100% of the time a day or 2 after the clutch change. Could be a coincidence?
You need an IDS tool to read those codes. They are big money though so in your case it would be cheaper to have the local dealer pull the codes and tell you what the wrench is on for.
Think I Would be able to read it with FORScan hooked up to my laptop?
I fortunately/unfortunately work a really busy schedule and my local dealer sucks
It might, I ended up buying a IDS to do my pcm/cluster swaps. I used it to figure out the issue with my 4x4 in my truck too then sold it off. I have never used forscan though.
Not sure if this was discussed ...since there's possibility wrench light being related to the drive train but was the OBD flashed for the new clutch? Necessary on the '14's . My original clutch went on my '13 at 4500 miles....shortly after I bought it. I can only assume the female original owner may have been trying to do burnouts with the TC on which could've damaged the clutch. The clutch was not covered under factory or used car warranty but the dealer offered me 20% discount on a factory clutch replacement labor + parts. I knew I wanted HP Upgrades so I chose to go for broke ($) at a Mustang shop with a stronger aftermarket clutch .
I also agree with the advice to do a compression test and even swapping in fresh spark plugs right away. WORTH IT. If...God Forbid....there is a compression issue THAT should be covered under terms of a used car dealer warranty.
I also vote not to do any CAI or TB or HP upgrades until you're assured all is well across the board. There will be plenty of advice down the road here on the forum for CAI / TB / Plenum / Upper or Lower Pulley Upgrades. One thing for sure we all love to help a guys spend his money !
Regarding the Upper Pulley.....if your compression is good, new plugs, clutch flashed in, TB connects all good, ALL wrench light issues resolved I'd ignore the upper pulley for now. Just break in the new clutch and start planning mods. Oh.... But Wait
->) ! If all is well..... Why not do Gears now ? You're already in clutch break inn period. Break gears & clutch in together. This way you're not going thru two break in periods back to back......Uugh.
BTW......CONGRATS!
I also agree with the advice to do a compression test and even swapping in fresh spark plugs right away. WORTH IT. If...God Forbid....there is a compression issue THAT should be covered under terms of a used car dealer warranty.
I also vote not to do any CAI or TB or HP upgrades until you're assured all is well across the board. There will be plenty of advice down the road here on the forum for CAI / TB / Plenum / Upper or Lower Pulley Upgrades. One thing for sure we all love to help a guys spend his money !
Regarding the Upper Pulley.....if your compression is good, new plugs, clutch flashed in, TB connects all good, ALL wrench light issues resolved I'd ignore the upper pulley for now. Just break in the new clutch and start planning mods. Oh.... But Wait
->) ! If all is well..... Why not do Gears now ? You're already in clutch break inn period. Break gears & clutch in together. This way you're not going thru two break in periods back to back......Uugh. BTW......CONGRATS!
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Not sure if this was discussed ...since there's possibility wrench light being related to the drive train but was the OBD flashed for the new clutch? Necessary on the '14's . My original clutch went on my '13 at 4500 miles....shortly after I bought it. I can only assume the female original owner may have been trying to do burnouts with the TC on which could've damaged the clutch. The clutch was not covered under factory or used car warranty but the dealer offered me 20% discount on a factory clutch replacement labor + parts. I knew I wanted HP Upgrades so I chose to go for broke ($) at a Mustang shop with a stronger aftermarket clutch .
I also agree with the advice to do a compression test and even swapping in fresh spark plugs right away. WORTH IT. If...God Forbid....there is a compression issue THAT should be covered under terms of a used car dealer warranty.
I also vote not to do any CAI or TB or HP upgrades until you're assured all is well across the board. There will be plenty of advice down the road here on the forum for CAI / TB / Plenum / Upper or Lower Pulley Upgrades. One thing for sure we all love to help a guys spend his money !
Regarding the Upper Pulley.....if your compression is good, new plugs, clutch flashed in, TB connects all good, ALL wrench light issues resolved I'd ignore the upper pulley for now. Just break in the new clutch and start planning mods. Oh.... But Wait
BTW......CONGRATS!
Thank you.
In regards to “flashing” in the new clutch what do you mean by this.
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