Any actual IAT gains from trunk ice tank with no ice on the street?

PM-Performance

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Simple easy question that I hope someone has actually logged data and not guessing.

My logic tells me these are useless unless you have it filled with ice. And street driving you are still driving with warm fluid, just more of it?

Anyone confirm or deny this opinion and have data to back it up? I have people telling me they are seeing 80* IAT2 temps in dead of summer and I have a really hard time buying this.
 

Catmonkey

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I don't have any hard data, but I've fooled around with this stuff enough to have an opinion. I think under boost conditions, it would probably keep IAT2s down only because of the volume of coolant in the tank before it gets hot. But, you would need a pretty hefty pump to push that volume of coolant, that wouldn't be found on a regular front mounted heat exchanger, or it might not work. Once the tank coolant is hot, there's no way to cool it down unless you have ice or you have some sort of heat exchanger somewhere in line. Now 80* IAT2s??? BS I say. Ambient is 15* higher than that in the dead of summer where I live. Not gonna happen. You can't defy the laws of physics.
 

IronTerp

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Agree. It will certainly take a bit to get the coolant hot, but once it’s hot, going to take longer to cool it back down again due to fluid volume.
 

PM-Performance

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Thanks, this makes sense. Just wanted to check my logic before I listened to these guys telling me it’s the greatest thing since sliced bread and blowing $1k because they didn’t know how to look at the data and give good info
 

Willie

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My logic tells me these are useless unless you have it filled with ice. And street driving you are still driving with warm fluid, just more of it?

Correct. No difference adding a rear tank from replacing the stock front reservoir with a larger capacity unit.

Anyone confirm or deny this opinion and have data to back it up? I have people telling me they are seeing 80* IAT2 temps in dead of summer and I have a really hard time buying this.

I can only quantify results from my personal experience. But first, my rear system does not include an HE. The reason is simple. With ice, the temps are significantly lower than ambient, so a HE would RAISE the temp, not lower it. I also have a dual temp gauge that reads before and after the intercooler (in the intake). I built the rear system for track use only (controlled environment), never on the street, because..... if I were to use the rear system on the street, the temps slowly rise and there is no way to cool it back down.

I don't have any hard data, but I've fooled around with this stuff enough to have an opinion. I think under boost conditions, it would probably keep IAT2s down only because of the volume of coolant in the tank before it gets hot.

At the track, I put in four or five bags of ice prior to a pass but I do not switch to the rear system until just prior to the burnout. Trust me, as soon as the rear system is flowing, I can see my temp gauge drop like a rock, and when the coolant temps drops like this, the IAT2 temp also drops very quickly... On a 110 degree summer day with my front system cruising at 45 mph and a starting IAT2 of 135 degrees ish, I switch to the ice bagged rear system. I watch my coolant temp gauge drop a rate of about two degrees per second until it stabilizes around 50 degrees. My IAT2 drops about one degree per second until it bottoms out around 70 degrees. This is a fully warmed up motor, 190 ish degrees engine temp, on a 110 degree day. BUT as the ice quickly melts, so do the temps return to "normal".

I don't have data under boost, but based on my temps at the start of a pass leads me to believe that even if the temps are FORTY degrees hotter at the end, it is still well below where the PCM starts pulling timing (125 deg ish IAT2). I really doubt it would be forty degrees hotter...

But, you would need a pretty hefty pump to push that volume of coolant, that wouldn't be found on a regular front mounted heat exchanger, or it might not work. Once the tank coolant is hot, there's no way to cool it down unless you have ice or you have some sort of heat exchanger somewhere in line. Now 80* IAT2s??? BS I say. Ambient is 15* higher than that in the dead of summer where I live. Not gonna happen.

I use a Meziere pump on my rear system (I forget the gph, but much higher at the stocker), with a KB single channel BAP. I run this pump at 17 volts.

You can't defy the laws of physics.

Aliens do!! Guess we haven't figured out how to stabilize Element 115 yet, lol...
 

Willie

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The reason why I do not have any boost data is because I installed this system at virtually the same time as a 4.2LC KB. I am now barred from running at my local NHRA track unless I add a ton of safety equipment and an NHRA license, which I'm not gonna do! The heck guys, I can only go to 44 degrees throttle angle before going into "no traction" mode.... I've owned this blower now for 1-1/2 years and I have never come close to hearing what this animal sounds like at WOT...

Willie
 

PM-Performance

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Correct. No difference adding a rear tank from replacing the stock front reservoir with a larger capacity unit.

Thanks for all the info. I’m a meth man, but your posts on meth made me realize it’s moot for PDB unless I want to pull the IC.
Just trying to figure out IaT in summer and making me want to sell the car. Lol
 

Willie

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Glad you mentioned that because........

All the above data without methanol. As we all know at the beginning of a run, it's basically not flowing and on a progressive system like mine, it's not a full flow until I'm down the track a bit. Then the IAT2 starts dropping, not rising as you would expect at WOT. Usually the IAT2 is constant during the last half of the track. Under partial boost (up to 20 psig) but still at full flow, the IAT2 continually drops. These stats WITHOUT the ice tank. So combine the two!

In your case, since you want cooler IAT2 temps on the street, have you looked into the Chiller Killer? I used to use this, at the expense of slightly higher A/C cabin air temps that were not as cold, but worked well to keep IAT2's reasonable. This system at the track did not work as I expected, so I went with the ice tank.

Willie
 

PM-Performance

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Glad you mentioned that because........

All the above data without methanol. As we all know at the beginning of a run, it's basically not flowing and on a progressive system like mine, it's not a full flow until I'm down the track a bit. Then the IAT2 starts dropping, not rising as you would expect at WOT. Usually the IAT2 is constant during the last half of the track. Under partial boost (up to 20 psig) but still at full flow, the IAT2 continually drops. These stats WITHOUT the ice tank. So combine the two!

In your case, since you want cooler IAT2 temps on the street, have you looked into the Chiller Killer? I used to use this, at the expense of slightly higher A/C cabin air temps that were not as cold, but worked well to keep IAT2's reasonable. This system at the track did not work as I expected, so I went with the ice tank.

Willie

I looked, but too much iffy feedback on it to get me to spend money.
 

2000GTSTANG

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I’ve seen my IATs (2v with 2.2kb and Gords HE with fans) drop when I go wot. It’s not anything crazy but it has dropped, especially when ambient temps were lower.

I plan on installing my methanol kit to help keep the blower cool during those hot summer days.
 

PM-Performance

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I’ve seen my IATs (2v with 2.2kb and Gords HE with fans) drop when I go wot. It’s not anything crazy but it has dropped, especially when ambient temps were lower.

I plan on installing my methanol kit to help keep the blower cool during those hot summer days.


Im not sure I follow your post? I have a larger fanned HE already. Only does soo much when its 90* out though. I think its been proven as well that pre blower injection is moot on PDB cars. Else I would already have meth on this car and be done with it
 

2000GTSTANG

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Im not using the meth to lower my actual IATs. Im hoping that it will help to keep the actual head unit cooler while it sprays and in turn help with some of the heat soak problems I get on days like today where its 90 degrees outside.

Ill be using a progressive controller and plan to have the meth start spraying around 2-3 psi so it will be activated most times I lay into the throttle.
 

PM-Performance

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Im not using the meth to lower my actual IATs. Im hoping that it will help to keep the actual head unit cooler while it sprays and in turn help with some of the heat soak problems I get on days like today where its 90 degrees outside.

Ill be using a progressive controller and plan to have the meth start spraying around 2-3 psi so it will be activated most times I lay into the throttle.

I don’t think it’s gonna help for heat soak. That’s the whole point of iat2 logging. Heat soak means your iat2 will be hot.
Don’t bother with progressive either. Waste of money. Just use a hobs switch and rock and roll.
 

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