forged short-block, what did you guys do?

Flcracker

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August 6/ my 2011 with a Roush blower is going to PBH to have the motor yanked and delivered to MPR. Tim Eichhorn is going to sleeve the stock block, add billet rods, Diamond pistons, etc.. I’m refusing my crank. Heads are getting a basic refresh.
 

Flcracker

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I think I've pretty much decided to get an aluminator short block. That'll be good for 850-900 whp and that's a strong street car engine. I have a set of heads and that will make a shorter downtime.
I'll either sell my current long block or keep it for a spare and maybe build an all-out sleeved motor a little at a time if need be.

I don't know what I'll decide to do tomorrow. :confused:
Research using an engine builder to change the rotating assembly and reuse your stock block and crank. You can get a better piston than Mahle.
 

jeffs

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I decided to just get better rods / pistons, and S550 valve-springs. My local machine shop is doing the short-block, and valve-springs. I'll install the heads, cams, timing equipment. I went with the following.
  • Manley H beam rods, upgraded to ARP 2000 rod bolts
  • ARP 12mm head studs, and main bearing studs
  • boss 302 / S550 Coyote valve-springs (same thing / part number fyi)
  • Manley 3.635 pistons, (.005 over std.) stock compression, no special coating
  • going back to my stock balancer, (unless someone here needs an ATI 20% balancer, that has a stock sized aftermarket balancer they want to trade) ATI, preferably.
Anyways, with the CPR kit, and around 13-15 psi, I'm hoping for 800ish to the wheels and single digit timeslips after some sorting out. Probably have a touch over 4K into the engine by the time it's ready to roll.

BTW Modular head-shop / Excessive motorsports has been very helpful, and they quoted me a very fair price for a short-block using my current crank, and rods. I've read bad things, but they've been very helpful over the past few weeks, I'd totally give them a try if my local machinist wasn't on board with this mild build for some reason.
 

clinton2003

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Definitely recommend either keeping that balancer or trading someone with an ATI. Dont reuse the stock balancer, why, because why trust it. it may not be perfectly balanced, and with something like your doing, why risk it. the ATI balancer will help with any harmonics that the machine shop doesnt get balanced out.
 

sdoo500

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Just did the first start up on my 2013 with Gen 2 short block last night. Stock bottom end was hurt, and I wanted a motor to hold 800 or reasonably safely and this was the easiest way to do it.

Gen 2 shortblock from Tasca was ~2300 (with core charge, need like core for deduction) so I still have my short block. Bought gasket kit and everything from him and just had my heads examined by local machine shop. I did OPG and sprocket while everything was out too.

I hesitated for a while because I thought the swap was difficult with the timing and everything but it really was so simple. Can't beat the bang for the buck on that set up. Stock block is still probably worth a couple bucks too.
 

jeffs

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Just did the first start up on my 2013 with Gen 2 short block last night. Stock bottom end was hurt, and I wanted a motor to hold 800 or reasonably safely and this was the easiest way to do it.

Gen 2 shortblock from Tasca was ~2300 (with core charge, need like core for deduction) so I still have my short block. Bought gasket kit and everything from him and just had my heads examined by local machine shop. I did OPG and sprocket while everything was out too.

I hesitated for a while because I thought the swap was difficult with the timing and everything but it really was so simple. Can't beat the bang for the buck on that set up. Stock block is still probably worth a couple bucks too.
Glad it worked out for you man!!
 

Flcracker

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Car made good power without leaning on it. It's on the 6 rib, 72mm pulley. Snapped a belt when the tuner let out, so I'm waiting on a billet tensioner to show up.
 

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fuelforfire87

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g on it. It's on the 6 rib, 72mm pulley. Snapped a belt when the tuner let out, so I'm waiting on a billet tensioner to show up.

Solid numbers, Kinda makes me wish I went with a PD Blower (especially the VMP gen 3) instead of Procharger. Anyways, should have my car back by the end of the week with the MMR 1000 Short Block, L&M intake cams, Boss 302 heads, Stage 3 6r80 (intermediate shaft + clutches + planetary), larger Race Intercooler and Race Red Bypass valve. Looking to make 850 at the wheels since the short block is not sleeved.
 

Flcracker

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Your car is going to rip big time. How bad is the NVH with your k-member. I’ll also be getting my car back soon. It will have a UPR k memeber and a new upper control arm with a rod end bushing. Hoping the nvh isn’t too much. It’s a street car that it will likely never see the track.
 

fuelforfire87

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Your car is going to rip big time. How bad is the NVH with your k-member. I’ll also be getting my car back soon. It will have a UPR k memeber and a new upper control arm with a rod end bushing. Hoping the nvh isn’t too much. It’s a street car that it will likely never see the track.
Thanks. Regarding the K-member, the NVH isn't bad at all. You only really notice it when accelerating from a stop. I used to have a GTI with motor and trans mounts and the NVH from that was way worse. Cant comment about rod end control arms as everything on my car is poly at the moment. May eventually switch to BMR's poly/rod end LCA's depending how long my whiteline LCA's hold up.

Sent from a Chevy S10+
 

DaBigBone

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I plan on going the 15+ route this fall when the season is over. For what it's worth, I had an MMR setup in a previous car and had no issues with it. Ran 22psi through it for about 12k miles and never a hiccup.
 

slow306stang

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I'm on round 2 for the short block build. I still haven't found the reason for the first failure but I should know in the next few weeks. The engine is tapping/knocking pretty loud and has a lot of aluminum in the oil filters. It runs fine with good oil pressure, passes a compression test, and tap/knock doesn't go away when unplugging coil packs one cylinder at a time. I parked the car back in the first week of September and have slowly been building the next engine.

L&M block is sleeved, reinforced, and head stud conversion
12:1 Compression Diamond Pistons
Manley I-Beam Rods
Boss Crank double keyway
Ported Heads with Pac Springs, bronze guides, Manley retainers and Ferrea valves
Exhaust Cams to match the L&M intake cams
 

11Sec_Lx

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I'm on round 2 for the short block build. I still haven't found the reason for the first failure but I should know in the next few weeks. The engine is tapping/knocking pretty loud and has a lot of aluminum in the oil filters. It runs fine with good oil pressure, passes a compression test, and tap/knock doesn't go away when unplugging coil packs one cylinder at a time. I parked the car back in the first week of September and have slowly been building the next engine.

L&M block is sleeved, reinforced, and head stud conversion
12:1 Compression Diamond Pistons
Manley I-Beam Rods
Boss Crank double keyway
Ported Heads with Pac Springs, bronze guides, Manley retainers and Ferrea valves
Exhaust Cams to match the L&M intake cams
The new bottom end sounds awesome. Good luck with it.
 

RusWolf

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My stock block from my 11 decided to call it quits last week, I ordered Gen 2 SB for $1800. Was a no brainer at that price point.
Not looking to be over 800hp.


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slow306stang

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My stock block from my 11 decided to call it quits last week, I ordered Gen 2 SB for $1800. Was a no brainer at that price point.
Not looking to be over 800hp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can't beat the price of the Gen 2 for that level of horsepower
 

Reaper14

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My stock block from my 11 decided to call it quits last week, I ordered Gen 2 SB for $1800. Was a no brainer at that price point.
Not looking to be over 800hp.


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Where did you get it for that price? Thought these were no longer for sale, or something along those lines

Vic
 

RusWolf

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A local shop ordered for me at cost.
It was supposed to be $1600 actually, but than they called me and said they were wrong, as the dealership they work with to get this price is in a different state so it’s $1600 plus freight charge of $200 on a pallet. So it came to $1800 total.

Hmm so are you guys saying Gen 2 is not available anymore? So Gen 1 is DEFINITELY not available right?
I just want to make sure im not getting Gen 1 lol.
The motor is at the shop already.

They said they can order Gen 2 or Gen 3. Gen 3 was like a $1000 more and it will hold more power, but if i’m not going to be over 800, no reason to spend more money and so I decided Gen 2 block and VMP OPG’s and going to order Ford Racing sprocket.

Btw any difference between FR and other aftermarket sprockets? FR is $35 and others are $250 so i’m just wondering why is the price so different and i’m thinking about going with FR.

Also, is there a way to verify that its a Gen 2 block ?

Here is a pic of the SB.
1d0f47024d426ef5c4fdcba205623663.jpg


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