Help me spend my money wisely take my car to the next level

GT Premi

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It's not overkill at all, if you want all your power all the time. I run my Killer Chiller all the time, and my GT500 is 100% a street car.
 

69b302

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I deff wont ever drive an hour for gas. lol.
I run 19.5* of timing currently on my pump gas tune and 20.5* I believe on my 100 octane tune. Not sure how much they cram in with E85, but is it worth $3500 to make another 50-60whp?
I know its there if I ever need more, but its alot to swallow.
Currently there are like 3-4 stations within a 30-40 mile radius of me. Its not super convenient,but its getting easier to get. If you would have asked me 2 years ago about this, I would have never considered it in the slightest

So with E85 you can run 23-24 degrees timing., and the boost is not limited to 18-19 psi, as on 93 octane. The combination of high boost and aggressive timing E85 allows, will give you far greater potential.
 

GT Premi

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I heard directly from the mouth of a very well-known [internationally] and respected tuner that you can safely run 21psi on 93 octane on the ['11/'12] GT500. Don't ask me who because I don't want people trying to sully his name and reputation thinking they know better than he does.
 

PM-Performance

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I heard directly from the mouth of a very well-known [internationally] and respected tuner that you can safely run 21psi on 93 octane on the ['11/'12] GT500. Don't ask me who because I don't want people trying to sully his name and reputation thinking they know better than he does.

You most certainly can. My car was running a 2.4 upper and 10% lower before I got it.
The prior owner turned it down because he was scared of the car.

The killer chiller looks interesting. my concern is running the AC in the pits and water dropping. The track tends to not like that. I gotta look on their site more. I saw a blurb about a drag kit, but I dunno.
Do you remove your HE completely? I guess I could probably sell my HE for the price almost this killer chiller costs
 

PistolWhip

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While agree with those that say you should already be over 700, I’d suggest sending the blower and lower to 1320 Junkie Performance for porting and reap double rewards. Cooler charge temps and more power with less restriction.

I said this before and I’ll say it again, I think your fuel system is holding you back. My 13/14 injectors and dual BAP system was maxed out with pump fuel at about 680 whp; being you’re relatively close to me in PA, the air we breath is pretty similar. I put ID1000’s on the car when I got the blower ported and upgraded to a DD149 MAF and that put me at 720 wheel. My TB is now my only restriction at this point but drivability is more important to me then peak hp.
 

PM-Performance

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While agree with those that say you should already be over 700, I’d suggest sending the blower and lower to 1320 Junkie Performance for porting and reap double rewards. Cooler charge temps and more power with less restriction.

I said this before and I’ll say it again, I think your fuel system is holding you back. My 13/14 injectors and dual BAP system was maxed out with pump fuel at about 680 whp; being you’re relatively close to me in PA, the air we breath is pretty similar. I put ID1000’s on the car when I got the blower ported and upgraded to a DD149 MAF and that put me at 720 wheel. My TB is now my only restriction at this point but drivability is more important to me then peak hp.

I won’t do business with jason. He belittled me for no reason on a post about my motor on something he honestly wasn’t even right on, so that lost my business.
If my fuel system was a problem I’d see some indication from logs?
I already have 72’s and dual bap, I haven’t seen any reason to think the fuel system is maxed.

It’s funny when I posted shitty dyno numbers and said the dyno was off, everyone said my numbers were dead on and no way my setup should be anywhere close to 700wheel.
Then said look at traps. Well in like 3000DA with the car pulling timing due to iats, the car was trapping 125.

Honestly not sure what to think of it all sometimes. The car rolls some pretty fast cars on the street.
 

69b302

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I heard directly from the mouth of a very well-known [internationally] and respected tuner that you can safely run 21psi on 93 octane on the ['11/'12] GT500. Don't ask me who

Well, I heard from a internationally known and respected tuner it was a waste to run higher boost on 93, since timing would be cut/more heat, so overall gains negligible. I did it anyway, then switched to E85:).
 

PM-Performance

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Well, I heard from a internationally known and respected tuner it was a waste to run higher boost on 93, since timing would be cut/more heat, so overall gains negligible. I did it anyway, then switched to E85:).
This is true as well. Hence why I havent jumped and made rash decisions yet. lol
 

RedVenom48

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@biminiLX has made nearly 1000 rwhp on a ported trinity setup running corn and *i think* a KB 168 mono w/ XBA elbow. The TVS is very efficient for its size, but its still a roots blower. The physical properties of e85 help keep the CC temps cooler than running pump or race fuel. While you need more of it and $$$ on a return system with big ass injectors, the pay off is SOLID power gains and good CC temps.

Also, consider Twin Screw blowers like Whipple or KB. While the torqu hit isnt as a hard down low compared to a TVS, its very good mid to top range. I dont know about you, but I really want my car to rip at 4-7k.

What compression ratio did you go with when you built your short block? Im thinking of going with 9.5:1 or 10.0:1 up from my stock 8.4:1.
 

PM-Performance

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@biminiLX has made nearly 1000 rwhp on a ported trinity setup running corn and *i think* a KB 168 mono w/ XBA elbow. The TVS is very efficient for its size, but its still a roots blower. The physical properties of e85 help keep the CC temps cooler than running pump or race fuel. While you need more of it and $$$ on a return system with big ass injectors, the pay off is SOLID power gains and good CC temps.

Also, consider Twin Screw blowers like Whipple or KB. While the torqu hit isnt as a hard down low compared to a TVS, its very good mid to top range. I dont know about you, but I really want my car to rip at 4-7k.

What compression ratio did you go with when you built your short block? Im thinking of going with 9.5:1 or 10.0:1 up from my stock 8.4:1.
It’s an frpp block. So it’s 8.1;1 :(
 

GT Premi

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...
Do you remove your HE completely? I guess I could probably sell my HE for the price almost this killer chiller costs

Removing it or blocking it off is an option. I still have my HE installed. I didn't want to go that extreme with it.
 

RedVenom48

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The killer chiller debate rages on. Street use is fine I guess, but Id be pissed if you ran a killer chiller in front of me at the track.

The AC system typically generates water as it condenses on the evaporator. When it drips out the drain tube, it very likely could get on the track. Unless youre a sociopath,

With a supecharged and intercooled car, I cant think of ANY logical reason you would remove a larger HE or the entire HE, period. Id pray that you never have any debris strikes on your AC condenser either if you delete the HE.

OR

You run a more efficient, less heat generating supercharger and an ice tank like a normal person. :D
 

PM-Performance

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The killer chiller debate rages on. Street use is fine I guess, but Id be pissed if you ran a killer chiller in front of me at the track.

The AC system typically generates water as it condenses on the evaporator. When it drips out the drain tube, it very likely could get on the track. Unless youre a sociopath,

With a supecharged and intercooled car, I cant think of ANY logical reason you would remove a larger HE or the entire HE, period. Id pray that you never have any debris strikes on your AC condenser either if you delete the HE.

OR

You run a more efficient, less heat generating supercharger and an ice tank like a normal person. :D


Well I had that same concern as I have gotten into heated debates with the track officials even using ice on intakes in the pits. Let alone AC drips.
So they have a "drag kit" that kills the leaks. Im still on the fence about it. I think it sounds great in theory, but not sure I can take the plunge. Esp thinking if something happens and my HE isnt there to protect me. But then again, wtf do you do if your HE takes a shit. I guess anything is possible.
 

PistolWhip

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I had a similar system as the killer chiller, a prototype developed by True Forged, on my 03’ Cobra which had a Whipple on it. The system worked ok, but it over worked the ac system and caused the interior temps while the ac was on to be impacted quite a bit. The impact to the ac systems function wasn’t worth the couple degrees in drop of IAT2’s that I saw from it and the fact that I had to pay someone to evacuate and then recharge the ac system made it even less attractive of an option.

It did also create condensation that in higher ambient temperatures and humid days was uncontrollable. The TF system mounted behind the driver side fog light, behind the bumper cover so the condensation would drip basically right in the path of the driver side wheels, but I can’t imagine that would matter much; S soon as the drag strip personnel saw any indication of liquid dripping below the car, they sent me off the lane.

I was able to combat some of that by only using the ac system when the car was in the staging lanes and then making sure that once my lane started to move, I turned it off. That way any remaining condensation would drip off before I got into the burn out box.

For me it was just too much of a hassle for not enough return in performance. You gotta expect that once you break the seal on the factory ac system you’re going to have to deal with initial leaks and possibly some trial mad error also.
 

PistolWhip

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I think in my experience, a better alternative to the killer chiller would be a bigger coolant tank in the trunk and addition of ice. Even without ice in the tank, the higher volume of the coolant would have a more efficient level of heat absorption and would take far longer to heat soak. That way even without ice you’ll be able to pull more heat out of the system effectively bringing the charge temps closer to ambient and then when you add ice, it’ll actually chill the charge temps rather then just absorb some of the heat.
 

PM-Performance

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I think in my experience, a better alternative to the killer chiller would be a bigger coolant tank in the trunk and addition of ice. Even without ice in the tank, the higher volume of the coolant would have a more efficient level of heat absorption and would take far longer to heat soak. That way even without ice you’ll be able to pull more heat out of the system effectively bringing the charge temps closer to ambient and then when you add ice, it’ll actually chill the charge temps rather then just absorb some of the heat.

Thanks for the in depth response.
I considered an ice tank as well, but not sure if the worth for a primarily street car.
Do you just fill with coolant and water mix for the street and drain a little and add ice for the track?
How much of a drop in iat did you see with no ice and just volume?
Do you get rid of the underhood tank then? I assume the funds still flow through the heat exchanger as normal otherwise?
 

PistolWhip

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The larger tank won’t necessarily “lower” your IAT2’s below your current average operating temp, but it will allow you to maintain low temperatures longer. If you think of the coolant / water as basically a heat absorber it may make more sense as to why a larger supply of water would make the charge temps stay cooler longer. The coolant basically takes heat out of the charge air and as it flows through the after cooler, then goes through the heat exchanger and exchanges that heat through the sinks on the HE; then repeats the cycle. Having more water allows for the system to move more heat away from the charge air, so basically you’ll be able to resist heat soaking the coolant for far longer and under far more intense driving cycles. The larger the volume of water available to move that heat away from the charge air, the longer it can move heat effectively without increasing its own temp to the point that the HE can no longer do it’s job effectively (IE: heat soak).

Most guys will eliminate the under hood coolant tank when they add the larger trunk mount tank since it’s really just redundant at that point. They usually have a small petcock on them that allows you to drain some coolant out of the tank and make room for ice.

I’ve never had a trunk mount tank so I can’t attest to exactly how I’d handle it, but I’ve been around plenty of cars that have had them and that’s been the routine. Just keep packing ice into it at the track then top it off at the end of the night for daily / street driving.

I still think that a port is your best option. If you can reconcile with Jay, he is the best in the business, but if you can’t get past his sarcasm (which is usually what people misinterpret as him being just a dick) he’s a great dude and really good at what he does. That’s your business, Jay is a friend of mine, but I an understand where you're coming from if you feel like someone disrespected you, you gotta do what you gotta do. If you can find someone else in business with a good reputation for porting these things, the difference is night and day.
 

PM-Performance

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I still think that a port is your best option. If you can reconcile with Jay, he is the best in the business, but if you can’t get past his sarcasm (which is usually what people misinterpret as him being just a dick) he’s a great dude and really good at what he does. That’s your business, Jay is a friend of mine, but I an understand where you're coming from if you feel like someone disrespected you, you gotta do what you gotta do. If you can find someone else in business with a good reputation for porting these things, the difference is night and day.

He wasn’t sarcastic. He was a flat out dick. Plain and simple. He belittled me and my setup and told me my motor was junk and he runs 9’s so he obviously knows better.
So I kicked that business venture and said I’d buy a new blower and sell my trinity before I give him $2k to port mine.
I can get a gen2r for $2400 fairly easily
 

PistolWhip

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Fair enough, none of my business, I was just saying I know he can be misunderstood some times. Either way, not my fight.

My TVS really didn’t have a heat problem before porting and has even less of one now. I’m actually surprised that your having heat soak problems with the speed your currently turning it at; it’s not typical of the set up you’re running. What size intake and TB are you running, maybe could one of those be causing a restriction?
 

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