New Upper Control Arm Mount Design

BMR Tech 2

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We've been working on a new upper control arm mount design over here at BMR. Our latest design offers more adjustment than the outgoing design for those of you looking to fine tune your rear suspension even more. They should be hitting the shelves soon, we're just finishing up our first batch of hammertone. We've made some changes to the existing hole locations, and added a third hole to split the difference between the two.


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We also redesigned the gussets that run the length of the mount. The new design features triangulated gussets that run the length of the mount, vs the rounded gusset on the older style. These changes result in a stronger mount. We never had issues with the old style, but if you're going to improve on something, you might as well make it stronger while you're at it!




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Nuar

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Am I the only one that feels very iffy about those mounting holes overlapping like that?!
 

BMR Tech 2

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can we exchange uninstalled old red units for new one?

We don't have any red available, and will not have any for a little while. Honestly, unless you are building a full blown race car, you will likely not notice a difference between the two mounts. This is just something we decided to do to separate ourselves from the rest of the two hole design mounts.

Am I the only one that feels very iffy about those mounting holes overlapping like that?!

A few other people have expressed some concern, but there isn't anything to worry about. Those holes aren't load bearing, and neither is the bolt. As long as the bolt is torqued properly, you will never have an issue. The sleeve in your UCA is what bears the load once it's clamped into the mount. Most of the load that is put through the mount is fore/aft anyways, not up/down. If you look at the Fays2 watts link, they have a similar design on their propeller mount. That sees much more vertical load than the UCA will ever see.
 

five.slow

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I would go with the middle hole or the lowest hole. I think the middle will probably work best for you.

Thanks, in the future when I get LCAs and relocation brackets what hole then? Also the adjustable poly arm bolt hole is 17mm and the bolt that came with the mount is 18mm. Why? Spent a hour with a sanding disc on the control arm insert to get the bolt to fit.
 

BMR Tech 2

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I would move it to the top hole once you get the relocation brackets on the car.

The sleeve definitely should be 18mm to match. Unfortunately, we have a lot of sleeves that look the same and every once in a while one will get mixed in with a different batch, ending up somewhere it shouldn't. If you'd like, I can get the correct sleeve sent out to you. Just shoot me a PM with your name/shipping address.
 

five.slow

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I would move it to the top hole once you get the relocation brackets on the car.

The sleeve definitely should be 18mm to match. Unfortunately, we have a lot of sleeves that look the same and every once in a while one will get mixed in with a different batch, ending up somewhere it shouldn't. If you'd like, I can get the correct sleeve sent out to you. Just shoot me a PM with your name/shipping address.

I appreciate it but I just shaved a little out and we are all good now. I figured it was a accidental part but it's no biggie. Thanks for the help.
 

Mrfoca

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I bought the non adjustable upper arm and bracket. It has 2 holes in it so which am I looking to use ? Top or bottom. Car is factory height
 

BMR Tech 2

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I bought the non adjustable upper arm and bracket. It has 2 holes in it so which am I looking to use ? Top or bottom. Car is factory height

If you don't have relocation brackets, go with the lower hole. If you have relocation brackets, top hole.
 

2014zx6r

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It's really disappointing that BMR does not provide such critical installation info as to which hole to use!

I had to call BMR for such info. The Tech then told me exactly the wrong information. My Mustang is factory height without relocation bracket, and the Tech told me to use the uppermost hole. That was totally opposite to my intuition, so I had to double and triple confirm with him, and he was very firm in that I should use the uppermost hole. Now you're saying using the lower hole. It's so frustrating as the bolt is so hard to remove and reinstall while it is already on the car.



If you don't have relocation brackets, go with the lower hole. If you have relocation brackets, top hole.
 
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Norm Peterson

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It's really disappointing that BMR does not provide such critical installation info as to which hole to use!

I had to call BMR for such info. The Tech then told me exactly the wrong information. My Mustang is factory height without relocation bracket, and the Tech told me to use the uppermost hole. That was totally opposite to my intuition, so I had to double and triple confirm with him, and he was very firm in that I should use the uppermost hole. Now you're saying using the lower hole. It's so frustrating as the bolt is so hard to remove and reinstall while it is already on the car.
The BMR tech was giving you good information for a car that's first and foremost a street driver or possibly a mild road course/autocross car. A strip-first/last/always setup would follow different logic.

The lower hole on the UCA bracket increases anti-squat, as does using the lower holes on the LCA relo brackets. But using the lower relo bracket holes tends to produce oversteerish roll steer (this is because the rear axle steers slightly as the car rolls in a turn) and oversteer is trickier to control. Street drivers still have to be able to handle cornering well enough that they don't scare the driver. That's the Cliff's Notes version.


Norm
 

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