Ngauge and electrical question

einehund

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Ok so I wont need the fuel pressure sensor as the Nguage will read the PID correct? I was looking to order a MAP 3.5 Bar Boost Sensor from Racing. Part # LR-ZT-MAP. I have it in my shopping cart ready to ship.

Did you drill and add a bung for the exhaust sensor and if so what location did you install it? The Zt2 kit mentions a down-pipe distance of 16" so I'm sure exhaust temperature is a concern, however I'm running a stock 2013 Style Supercharger.

I take it you lengthened all the wires for the installation? Once again sorry for all the questions. After this part of the installation is completed I'm ready to start data-logging so I can get the car on the road again. The information on this Zt2 kit is vague and I feel like I'm not using it to its full capabilities.

Any pics or help is appreciated!
I had all these same questions, so no biggie. The only thing i think is needed is the 3.5 bar sensor and the wideband. I am currently running the MRT o/r h-pipe, which comes with the extra bung to add a wideband. I still have my stock midpipe and have contemplated adding a bung to it in case i ever have to switch back to having cats. If i end up doing that, i will put it in the same spot, which is on the driver's side pipe facing inboard, almost horizontal, at the spot where the midpipe changes from a 30* angle to horizontal.

I have work to do on the car tomorrow, i'll take a bunch of pictures.
 

SCGallo2

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Did you drill and add a bung for the exhaust sensor and if so what location did you install it? The Zt2 kit mentions a down-pipe distance of 16" so I'm sure exhaust temperature is a concern, however I'm running a stock 2013 Style Supercharger.

I am currently running the MRT o/r h-pipe, which comes with the extra bung to add a wideband. I still have my stock midpipe and have contemplated adding a bung to it in case i ever have to switch back to having cats. If i end up doing that, i will put it in the same spot, which is on the driver's side pipe facing inboard, almost horizontal, at the spot where the midpipe changes from a 30* angle to horizontal.

I had the same question several years ago when I installed my wideband for my AeroForce Interceptor… searched this forum, read sensor manufacturer’s recommendations, and painstakingly test fitted to make installation and removal as easy as possible. For 2007-2010, I recommend installation forward of the catalytic convertor on driver’s side; just let your Tuner know that your wideband O2 sensor is pre-cat. I have a Bosch O2 sensor #17025, and it has held up and stayed accurate for at least 5 years in that location with no issues. The weld on bung is in line with the upper exhaust manifold bolt, so the sensor has to be removed during mid-pipe installation/removal. You can easily get to the manifold bolt with a socket, swivel, and long extension. There is available clearance for you to use a combination wrench to install/remove the O2 sensor. I also have a MRT Off-road H pipe (not installed), and the existing bung location is right where the cat is on the stock mid-pipe.

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MRT Off road H.jpg
 

May93

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Thanks for the help and pics. My car has a off road H-Pipe so I have plenty of room to mount the sensor where needed. It will be plugged into my Nguage that I purchased for data logging.

I'll have the car on the lift tomorrow and hopefully it has a extra bung and if not I'll weld one in.

Has anyone used the LR Boost Box Omega Nguage? When I went to order the MAP 3.5 Sensor it was a recommended part? I guess it formulates the voltage to actual Boost.
 
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PM-Performance

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Thanks for the help and pics. My car has a off road H-Pipe so I have plenty of room to mount the sensor where needed. It will be plugged into my Nguage that I purchased for data logging.

I'll have the car on the lift tomorrow and hopefully it has a extra bung and if not I'll weld one in.

Has anyone used the LR Boost Box Omega Nguage? When I went to order the MAP 3.5 Sensor it was a recommended part? I guess it formulates the voltage to actual Boost.

I think the boost box was to be more of a direct PNP deal that did not require wiring, where the 3.5bar map requires the ZT-2 box to get signal and power from. The Boost box i believe goes right to the ngauge for power and data
 

PM-Performance

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PS: Not sure if this helps anyone ,but here is a video I made showing all my wiring of the ZT2, boost sensor, wideband and instalation and showing where I tapped for power and ground and routed wires

 

May93

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My pleasure. Hopefully it was of some help. I know there was little info out there when I was doing mine so I made this to help anyone else that needs more of a pictoral when doing theirs

I do all my own work but this side of the technology I'm still learning. I had thought I had to wire up all the Zt2 wiring components, however, I see its only the Boost sensor and the Zt2 that actually need wired.

You pulled that boost sensor out of that box and I thought damn it comes like that? Ha, obviously it doesn't as you later mentioned it was used.

I take it you didn't use the bung that came in the box? I had planned on removing the H-pipe and welding one in.

Thanks again for the help!
 

PM-Performance

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I do all my own work but this side of the technology I'm still learning. I had thought I had to wire up all the Zt2 wiring components, however, I see its only the Boost sensor and the Zt2 that actually need wired.

You pulled that boost sensor out of that box and I thought damn it comes like that? Ha, obviously it doesn't as you later mentioned it was used.

I take it you didn't use the bung that came in the box? I had planned on removing the H-pipe and welding one in.

Thanks again for the help!

I did not use the bung that I bought for the project. After finding out my rear sensors were already shut off, I just used the driver side bung already in my header. If I were keeping cats and my rear sensors were turned on, I would have had the bung welded in like originally planned
 

May93

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Fuses 32 and 37 in your passenger side kick panel fuse box are 12V switched power and unused. Pop an add a circuit in each one and you’re good to go for power.

You’ll tee off the lower intake manifold for vacuum/boost.

I’m not sure how you’d get a fuel pressure reading with stock rails. If you’ve got aftermarket rails, most of them have a couple of NPT threaded plugs that you can remove and screw the fuel pressure sensor into.

Ok so it’s time to get this thing back together and on the road. However, right away As i begin to wire it up I notice my fuses in my 2007 GT500 kick-panel only go as high as 21. Hmmm?


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May93

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I’m using F16 that’s a switched cluster 5Amp accessory. I’m only wiring in direct the red (+) positive and then the black (-) negative of the Zt-2 Kit. I purchased the PNP BoostBox Omega and according to Lund I don’t need the fuel as it’s already captured. It sure seems the Zt-2 Kit has a lot of unused wires. These are some tiny gauge wires.


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einehund

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I’m using F16 that’s a switched cluster 5Amp accessory. I’m only wiring in direct the red (+) positive and then the black (-) negative of the Zt-2 Kit. I purchased the PNP BoostBox Omega and according to Lund I don’t need the fuel as it’s already captured. It sure seems the Zt-2 Kit has a lot of unused wires. These are some tiny gauge wires.


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I wish i would have known that my car could already read the fuel pressure, as then i wouldn't have bought the extra sensor or the adapter block to mount the sensor. Oh well. Live and learn. my fuel sensor is wired into the zt2 box, so i guess it serves as a back up. I was impressed with the number of sensors the zt2 can support, but it does feel weird having 15 unused wires on the harness.
 

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