He is street tuning. When I did my remote tunes I used 3rd for pulls too.
I will PAY YOU if you can tell me whats wrong with my car before I drive it off a cliff
- Thread starter PNWSVT
- Start date
It's not that you couldn't provide a 4th gear pull log from out on the roads.....but it's a lot easier and somewhat safer to top out a 3rd gear pull versus 4th. Unless you live in Mexico, of course lol
I don't do anything on the street. Not work the inherit risks.
Understood.....but you had the question "why"....now you have the answer
oh absolutely, I appreciate the response.
update:,
Street tuning at its finest! thats why im doing these 3rd gear WOT runs
My tuner and I have been at it non stop, probably about 6 or so updated tunes over the last few days.
its running 90% happier now and its almost there!
We are getting there, although i have a rattle getting a little louder every time and its coming from the transmission area. It happens when I press the clutch (louder this way) and it still makes the occasional rattlle without being pressed in. I installed a new HD TOB and billet retainer sleeve when i did the rebuild
the car mechanically doesn't have the tightest tolerances but its been blessed off on by multiple engine builders and tuners as being mechanically sound. So im not too worried. I just did an oilchange and there wasnt a single spec of metal in the pan.
Street tuning at its finest! thats why im doing these 3rd gear WOT runs
My tuner and I have been at it non stop, probably about 6 or so updated tunes over the last few days.
its running 90% happier now and its almost there!
We are getting there, although i have a rattle getting a little louder every time and its coming from the transmission area. It happens when I press the clutch (louder this way) and it still makes the occasional rattlle without being pressed in. I installed a new HD TOB and billet retainer sleeve when i did the rebuild
the car mechanically doesn't have the tightest tolerances but its been blessed off on by multiple engine builders and tuners as being mechanically sound. So im not too worried. I just did an oilchange and there wasnt a single spec of metal in the pan.
Oh and by the way my street tunes are all done exclusive in mexico ....
One other thing gents, why in the hell is my Raptor shift light tapped into my number 5 cyl coil wiring? am i missing something here? why would anything be tapped into a coil? it will randomly blink at me and its annoying as truck. Im pretty sure its the raptor light anyways
One other thing gents, why in the hell is my Raptor shift light tapped into my number 5 cyl coil wiring? am i missing something here? why would anything be tapped into a coil? it will randomly blink at me and its annoying as truck. Im pretty sure its the raptor light anyways
What brand o2 sensors are you running? I had issues with the parts store sensors, ended up putting OEM in it and haven't had a problem since.
I am currently using BOSCH 15717 and so far so good. If these give me trouble I’m going over to the NTKs
Yeah Bosch is what I had issues with before I switched. Would you mind sending me a datalog? We have a very similar setup other than fuel so I'd like to compare em
Yeah, I used 3rd also.
I made the switch to NTK's also. I ordered a set of OEM sensors, which now look like a Bosch. They were still laggy due to my car having long tubes. The NTK sensors seem a bit more responsive than the Bosck look alike.
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Heres one thing i noticed about the bosch, they look like downstream sensors and it freaked me out. You know how most of our upstream sensors are flat tipped and have a smaller profile? The ones i bought are rounded and freaking HUGE. Also the sensor plug where it goes into the harness, isnt the same. Its the same type of barrel but it doesn't have the pieces sticking out so it can only go in "one way" so that could also be an issue.
It should only have the “latch” on one side, no? At any rate, glad you’re getting it worked out. I think we all suspected the o2’s, since it ran well when WOT (which is essentially bypassing them). Make sure your tuner knows you have long tubes etc if you do, as the delay value should be changed to compensate for the additional distance from stock
A dead head system routed the way the OP is describing has been known to cause tuning issues like one side running lean without a crossover line.
There are quite a few threads on this topic with a more in-depth explanation. Great if you didn’t have problems, if you are I’d add the crossover
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So I don’t have a return-less system, I have return system.
Fore Fuel Hat
Dual GT Super Car pumps
FC2 controller
-10 feed to fuel filter
-10 from filter to y block
-10 from y block to front of each rail
-6 return from each rail to FPR
-6 return from FPR to tank
Fore Fuel Hat
Dual GT Super Car pumps
FC2 controller
-10 feed to fuel filter
-10 from filter to y block
-10 from y block to front of each rail
-6 return from each rail to FPR
-6 return from FPR to tank
With that setup you do not need a crossover and you are not running deadhead.
What FPR are you using and didn’t know you could run GT super car pumps in a return setup....
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What FPR are you using and didn’t know you could run GT super car pumps in a return setup....
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I’m using an aeromotive 1000, and why couldn’t you use the twin gt pumps? Just curious ?
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