VMP Stage 4 Power Package Dyno Results 14 GT500

MrAjsTech

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Hello everyone! So 1 Week with the car and I have already made a trip over to VMP Performance for some mods. My 2014 GT500 was mostly stock with the exception of a O/R X Pipe and a Lund Tune from the previous owner. When we got to VMP we flashed a stock tune into the car to get a solid baseline before adding power. VMP and myself were filming the results of each bolt on added to the car and the corresponding gains which I think is great info for helping everyone decide on mods. I will mention that there appears to be some sort of fuel pump issue with the car which prevented us from getting to 700rwhp and we wanted to keep things safe with this issue present (pressure drop on rails). I have a corresponding video and VMP also plans to release their video which will have significantly more tech tips and information. My videos usually glean over the info.

Baseline on Stock Tune

andrew stock 593rwhp.png


We then flashed in a VMP Tune. The Stock tune actually threw some good timing at the car at the top since it was cooled down quite a bit. You will notice peak hp gain isn't very significant but the torque gain and the gains in the curve are definitely significant.

andrew tune only.png


We then decided to throw the JLT 123mm Cold Air Intake and the VMP Twin Jet 67mm Throttle Body on the car with a VMP Tune to see what kind of gains we get before changing to the 2.4 pulley. We saw some fantastic gains both in the curve and at peak. There is also quite a bit more supercharger sound that can be heard outside and inside of the car with these two modifications. We also replaced the spark plugs with some Brisk plugs gapped at .028

andrew TB & CAI swap.png


2.4 Pulley and 90mm Idler. This is where our fuel issue started to become more obvious. The car is still safe but the pump is being worked much harder than these cars normally see at this power level.

3.27.19 run10 final stg4 boostane.png


Overall I am very happy with the results. I do have to do some more investigating to figure out the fuel issue. I plan to add a set of LTH Longtubes, VMP Gen 3 Supercharger, and L&M Cams in the future.

Video Link:

 

Ray Lucca

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Didn't think these mods would make it run out of fuel. Did you change the Fuel Filter? I would.. I'm sure Mr. Justin can set you up with a Bap if needed...
 

2011 gtcs

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You're already making great power with 4 bolt ons. I'm sure a new fuel filter and a set of BAPs and you'll have all the fuel you need (on pump gas) and you should pick up great power with the headers.
 

csvt98

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Slap on a Gen 3 VMP next. Also, chasing numbers also means chasing power. Unless you throw on something odd and kill the power under the curve to where all the power is up top and nothing mid-down low.
 

biminiLX

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Slap on a Gen 3 VMP next. Also, chasing numbers also means chasing power. Unless you throw on something odd and kill the power under the curve to where all the power is up top and nothing mid-down low.
True, more power is more power. But there is a point where you have to much for having fun on the street.
On commonly available street friendly drag radials (think Nitto) or R-compound tires (Toyo R888R), you’ll have a car that is most fun around 750rwhp.
It’ll still have Traction, still be rowdy enough to scare the fun into you and passengers and still eat 99% of cars you find on the street.
The other concern is that as you push past 750rwhp, you risk your engine.
My point is that he’s new to the GT500, and my advice would be to learn and enjoy the car before just throwing power at it.
A well driven, hooking 750rwhp car beats a 900rwhp without Traction or a driver mod.
Just sayin.
-J
 

Talleywacker

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Yup. I believe the terminator motor is more stout than the GT500 but 700rw on the street is what I would call plenty. I've seen a ton of 4 digit turbo cars turn the boost down to 650-700 for the street and then crank it up to 12-1400rw for the track.
 

csvt98

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True, more power is more power. But there is a point where you have to much for having fun on the street.
On commonly available street friendly drag radials (think Nitto) or R-compound tires (Toyo R888R), you’ll have a car that is most fun around 750rwhp.
It’ll still have Traction, still be rowdy enough to scare the fun into you and passengers and still eat 99% of cars you find on the street.
The other concern is that as you push past 750rwhp, you risk your engine.
My point is that he’s new to the GT500, and my advice would be to learn and enjoy the car before just throwing power at it.
A well driven, hooking 750rwhp car beats a 900rwhp without Traction or a driver mod.
Just sayin.
-J
Yes. I roll on my drag setup because the street setup spins past 100. If you make over 650-700, a radial or 888r is a must. He is new to the Shelby but not power, he had a 700 rwhp Terminator before the GT500. Yes, spinnin' ain't winnin'.
 

stanger1

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Definitely do the fuel filter. My 13 only has 11,000 miles, but being 6 years old, I figured it was time and it was. Noticed a difference right after. Don't have any data logging to show, but driveability is smoother.
Still don't know why Ford has a quick connect on one end and still need the tool to release the fitting on the other side.
 

e85svt

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Yes. I roll on my drag setup because the street setup spins past 100. If you make over 650-700, a radial or 888r is a must. He is new to the Shelby but not power, he had a 700 rwhp Terminator before the GT500. Yes, spinnin' ain't winnin'.
I definitely see your point, however I think what he is trying to say is that there is a point where adding to much power in a street driven car can cause reliability/longetivity issues along with the decreased fun factor because he will not only will he be limited on traction but limited in room to use the new found power especially since the shelby has relatively long gears due to the 2.66 first gear and the 3.31 ring and pinion ratio. Now Of course he could get 4.10s or 3.73s these would lower dyno numbers, however this would increase acceleration but would make traction issues much worse. A intake, tb, upper pulley, longtube, gear, dr car is a potent street car. After that some e85 and a lower pulley would net some nice results as well.

Sent from my SM-G960U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

Klaus

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Didn't think these mods would make it run out of fuel. Did you change the Fuel Filter? I would.. I'm sure Mr. Justin can set you up with a Bap if needed...

I would not think he needs a BAP at this level. I would figure out the pump/flow issue before I threw more voltage at it.
 

SteveWK

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@ 16:10 in the video, what is causing those puffs of white smoke coming out of the exhaust? Actually it is more like 16:14.
 
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SteveWK

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Some advice from my experience. If I were you I would just drive the car the way it is now and work out any gremlins before adding long tubes and any other engine mods. I know you had a high HP car before purchasing this car, but you need to get the suspension sorted out before adding anymore power, actually torque. I'm assuming the suspension is stock, and by sorting it out, I mean the rear suspension. The rear suspension in its stock form is dangerous, imho. I would recommend at the very least better lower and upper control arms, or you can do what I did and install a Griggs torque arm and watts link. There are other manufactures of torque arms and watts links, but this is just what I went with. If I understood you correctly from your videos, you are a ME. If so, draw some free body diagrams and understand what and how these suspension upgrades work.

On the flip side, you could be doing what I said above and know more than I do. Trust but verify.

Steve
 

biminiLX

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I definitely see your point, however I think what he is trying to say is that there is a point where adding to much power in a street driven car can cause reliability/longetivity issues along with the decreased fun factor because he will not only will he be limited on traction but limited in room to use the new found power especially since the shelby has relatively long gears due to the 2.66 first gear and the 3.31 ring and pinion ratio. Now Of course he could get 4.10s or 3.73s these would lower dyno numbers, however this would increase acceleration but would make traction issues much worse. A intake, tb, upper pulley, longtube, gear, dr car is a potent street car. After that some e85 and a lower pulley would net some nice results as well.

Sent from my SM-G960U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Exactly my point. Around 750rwhp with 4.10s on 18” DRs my car trapped over 137mph. From a 40 roll it was deadly. I’m not sure how much the 4.10s hurt the dyno, but 965rwhp trapped 145mph with only 2 poor attempts (belt issues). While it was built with a purpose, the car was more ‘fun’ on the street with 750rwhp range. I also took out the oil pump gears testing for NMCA at what was probably just over 750rwhp. It was due to overrev and my fault while datalogging, but it’s why I say respect octane and RPM and these motors will live a long life stock bottom end.
So, I’ve been through it all on this car, now built JDM 5.8 and shortly over 1000rwhp with the Gen3 upgrade.
Wisdom is learning from the mistakes of others, without having to make them yourself. Or something like that :)
-J
 

biminiLX

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I would not think he needs a BAP at this level. I would figure out the pump/flow issue before I threw more voltage at it.
Agreed. I would suggest replacing the pumps and fuel filter. The fuel filter is a great first suggestion, and the best choice is the Canton CM billet filter as you order direct from Canton to spec the bolt on Ford quick connect fittings and it’s reusable. It flows enough for over 800rwhp on a stock system with a BAP and E85.
I dint think this car was E85, but my tuner has seen pumps that sit in E85 get weak over time. Make the E10 pump 93 could do it or it’s just time, but stock replacement would be my call after the filter is changed and the wiring is checked.
-J
 

csvt98

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I definitely see your point, however I think what he is trying to say is that there is a point where adding to much power in a street driven car can cause reliability/longetivity issues along with the decreased fun factor because he will not only will he be limited on traction but limited in room to use the new found power especially since the shelby has relatively long gears due to the 2.66 first gear and the 3.31 ring and pinion ratio. Now Of course he could get 4.10s or 3.73s these would lower dyno numbers, however this would increase acceleration but would make traction issues much worse. A intake, tb, upper pulley, longtube, gear, dr car is a potent street car. After that some e85 and a lower pulley would net some nice results as well.

Sent from my SM-G960U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I do see that point as well, I would try to address reliability before making too much power. 675 rwhp like OP's car is really the point where he needs to go billet OPG's/Crank sprocket and upgrade timing components. 3.73's would be a good upgrade and on a Shelby I would be rolling around on a radial on the street. 15" conversion and 15x10's with 28's.

Exactly my point. Around 750rwhp with 4.10s on 18” DRs my car trapped over 137mph. From a 40 roll it was deadly. I’m not sure how much the 4.10s hurt the dyno, but 965rwhp trapped 145mph with only 2 poor attempts (belt issues). While it was built with a purpose, the car was more ‘fun’ on the street with 750rwhp range. I also took out the oil pump gears testing for NMCA at what was probably just over 750rwhp. It was due to overrev and my fault while datalogging, but it’s why I say respect octane and RPM and these motors will live a long life stock bottom end.
So, I’ve been through it all on this car, now built JDM 5.8 and shortly over 1000rwhp with the Gen3 upgrade.
Wisdom is learning from the mistakes of others, without having to make them yourself. Or something like that :)
-J
You made 215rwhp more and only trapped 8 MPH more? What is a normal Shelby GT500 trap speed that makes 1k wheel?
 

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