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Nutty 5.0

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Update to results:
Update of Gen2R Install

Now that the Gen 3's are out, there's a handful of Gen 2/2R's available. I'm looking to grab one or even a new 2R for my 2012. Looks like things have changed quite a bit over the past few years from what is ideal for fuel system requirements.

Current: I'm a 2.5" VMP tune, pulley and 90mm Idler, JLT 123, Twin 67mm TB, full stock exhaust manifold to tips, and triple pass fanned HX on 93 octane.
Certains: No E85 around me and I don't have any interest in race gas so will stay 93 octane. I'll be staying full stock exhaust as I like it quiet as I've gotten older and don't care for off road pipe smells. Street only with maybe 1-2 trips a year to the track.
Goal: Gather parts for this time next year to increase 100 rwhp to 600-630. I assume I can still achieve that with a 2 or 2R. Since the car is essentially all street driven, is there any sacrifices from running a 2R over a 2? I don't see the reason to spend extra for a Gen 3 as it wouldn't be as street-able down low but maybe I'm wrong. The price of new and used 2R's really make it enticing.
Fuel: What is the right fuel delivery route for my goals? I don't mind spending money if it's the better decision. 56's? 56's with BAP, or should I be looking at the larger injectors and no BAP? With the Terminators you could safely run a BAP and 60's but that was 10 years ago. The BAP used to be a band aid but I hadn't heard of a widespread issue using them either.
Pulley: What pulley for a safe street 93 octane? Will my current 90mm idler work with the Gen 2 options?

Thanks for any input.
 
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merkyworks

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I have a 12 that's basically the combo your asking about, take out headers/OR X-pipe that is. See signature below.

My opinion is get the 2R unless you find a smoking deal on a 2.

Gen 2R with 2.5" pulley (~16psi)
TB 67 twin for best driveability
13-14 GT500 (56) injectors
BAP - I have ready 11-12's can increase voltage to pumps via the ECU so BAP is not needed but when Lund tuned my car it was still recommenced I put one on the car so I did.

This combo will get you to your power goals.
 

Nutty 5.0

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Thanks merkyworks. Sounds like there's really nothing to lose running a 2R.

You made me realize I missed the VMP 67 I do have. Updated my original post.
 

Catmonkey

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The 2R is going to shine over a 2 or a Trinity on the top side with 700 horsepower or more. Increases at 600-630 are going to be marginal. I see no reason to not go with it because you may want more power later. You can pulley it down a good bit and not worry about injectors, BAPs and all the other peripherals at 600-630. That's what I did with a Gen I when I bought my car. Blower first, bolt-ons later. I just didn't wait too long to start adding bolt-ons. I'm not sure what pulley you'd need to get there (600-630), but I'm sure VMP could tell you. You would need a tune to compensate for the higher engine loads. Make the $90 swap to a smaller pulley when you have the other parts lined up.
 

1Kona_Venom

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Picked up a bone stock '11 last month. My route is the same as yours OP as far as mods and power goals. I am just waiting till Labor Day Weekend to pull the trigger on parts during the Labor Day weekend sales.

fwiw, do not spend more than $2500 on a brand new Gen2R.
It's a BUYERS market now for blowers
 
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RedVenom48

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Idler will work just fine.

Im pretty sure youd be able to get away with a 2.5" upper and stock lower on 93. I ran a TVS on my 2011 a few years ago and used a 2.6" for street (pump gas 91) and a 2.4" on race fuel. Used with an off road H.

Because you have cats in there, a 2.4" upper may be a little aggressive on 93 but talk to your tuner.

56# injectors and a BAP will fuel it just fine. I used the plug and play VMP unit without issue, but next time around Im going with a 20V JMS bap.
 

Nutty 5.0

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Awesome and thanks to you and everyone else. Looking to see what the holiday brings for some sales. New 2R’s for 2500 is pretty tempting.
 

1Kona_Venom

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Awesome and thanks to you and everyone else. Looking to see what the holiday brings for some sales. New 2R’s for 2500 is pretty tempting.

the week of the 4th of July VMP did a sale, $2500. Every year, they do a Labor Day weekend sale. And if all else fails, wait till Lethal does 12 days of Xmas sale.....Whipples 10-15% off
 

Nutty 5.0

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I've pulled the trigger for FPDM kit. I'm finding 56# injectors new at many places at the 52# M-9593-MU52 part number which I assume are the same injectors listed at different flow pressure rating. $219 seems pretty cheap but haven't dealt with Diversified for a long time either.

Waiting on Labor Day sales but pretty much ready.
 

Nutty 5.0

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Figured I should post an update. Finally installed and got to drive the setup. Followed all of VMP’s recommendations on what I should run (Thanks to those here too!):

Gen 2R with 2.4" pulley
VMP 67 twin
JLT123
13-14 GT500 (56) injectors
VMP plug and play 11-12 BAP
170F Thermostat
Triple pass fanned HX
Stock exhaust: manifolds to mufflers
GR12YS’s gapped at 28
93 Octane VMP tune

Install: Had a PITA (Catmonkey and others shared the same) getting the EGR lined up. Took advice and started tube nut and the bolts while leaving blower not fully mounted and it still had us wanting to punch babies. Second but minor issue was the EVAP valve. I bought the car with 3400 miles on it and it now has 5700. I removed the EVAP and the valve and O ring were torn. Almost looked like it was factory install issue as the one part of the plastic where it mounts to the blower was pushed in wrong and bent but not quite cracked. I took it out myself and didn’t fight it so I know I didn’t do it. Or maybe it was apart from someone before; who knows. I found a Viton O ring assortment kit at the local Advance Auto so put that on. I still ordered a new valve as I don’t like the broke/bent one. Looks to be working fine now. Overall, it wasn’t bad at all. I scanned the instructions as VMP has them on their site, but goes to a broken Dropbox link. You will use a 28mm wrench for the EGR tube nut assuming you have a 11-12 (May be same for other years). Old GR14YS plugs looked ok; got new ones for the increased boost and gapped at 28.

Loading a tune: Pretty simple and have done it plenty of times on this car in the past year. Not this time. It would go all the way through the process of loading a new tune (not returning to stock and then adding a tune), and get hung up at “Clearing DTC Codes”. I say hung up because it would flash red and green LED’s which I never saw before. Posted on the GT500 FB page and great advice: update the firmware. I haven’t had to before, and was generally told not to, but I had no choice. Take it to the laptop and it says car needs to go to Stock first before loading firmware. I saved the stock tune from the X4 (I had done this already before but figured better safe than sorry!) and fortunately went back to stock. I was worried about bricking the ECU despite having it on a charger all of the time. Taking it back to the laptop it updated the firmware which took just over 30 minutes. It had over 800+ parameters to update so I guess that’s why it needed updated. Then took the X4 and successfully loaded the tune. Car fired right up like stock and all the previous tunes.

Driving: Let car warm up after tune install. Never a hiccup; perfectly smooth idle and transitions. Quick 15 mile cruise it drives like stock and all VMP tunes I’ve had in it. Buttery smooth yet slightly more responsive with this blower. Ran some data logs for WOT but it’s hard to find space to get a Third Gear pull yet alone a fourth. It still spins in second and sort of bites but skates in 3rd (Nitto 555 G2 in stock size) so I’m hoping they can see what they need that it’s safe to beat on. I saw as much as 18* of timing and up to +2* of knock. I did run my tank down to below a quarter tank (I had fuel from October due to the crappy winter weather up here) so topped off with fresh 93 and half a bottle of Boostane Pro just to make sure I had at least a good 93 to start with. Not sure if some of the older fuel is still in and it’s picking up some knock from that. Not sure what timing I should be seeing but 12-13* (EDITED: I said 18 but actually was much lower) seems safe from I recall.

Overall: Assuming nothing concerning is found with data logs, I love the stock drivability. It feels faster, but really hard to say is it another 100+ on HP and Trq? The long gearing of these cars seems to help for traction and mask some of the power. I’m happy it’s somewhat hooking in 3rd, but was assuming I’d be blowing them off through 3rd lol. I have all stock suspension other than BMR Panhard and Panhard support. I do plan on some BMR lowers.
 
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Nutty 5.0

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Sorry, missed some pictures. I put in some SS ARP bolts for the throttle body to better complement the look. I can get the sizes if anyone needs.

Picture of the torn EVAP O ring (left) and I did try and use an injector O ring (right) that I had but it was just to big and tore as well. Note the old plugs!
IMG_4571(2).jpg
IMG_4576 (2).JPG
Gen2R Install 4(2).jpg
IMG_4569(2).jpg
IMG_4573.JPG
 

Catmonkey

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I take it you use an octane booster quite a bit based on the tint of the spark plugs. I tore an o-ring on my EVAP valve when I installed my Gen 2. I'm more careful and lubing the o-ring and not just shoving it in the hole. Installing the valve on the bench before putting it in place on the engine makes that possible. I'm sure I tore the o-ring when I installed the EVAP with the blower in place. I had no luck on a replacement either, so I ordered a new valve.
 

Nutty 5.0

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Thanks for all your input here and elsewhere. It was helpful installing mine!

Plug tint: I put them in last year at 1500 miles ago. I was running Star Tron fuel treatment last winter and early spring until I had bad upstream wide band O2 on driver side. Not sure if it was that the car wasn't driven much and just idle time or time to die but I stopped using that after that (May 2018). I should have changed the plugs after I put in the new upstream (both) sensors but I didn't. So not sure. I am running Boostane in the tank now but haven't used it before other than the 20-30 miles in the past week before pulling blower.

Ah, so it wasn't just me. I'm always careful too but it came out damaged. I should've gotten a picture of the valve as you can see it was installed weird but very well could have torn from being dry from me. I'd recommend anyone else doing one to get a EGR gasket (just in case) and that valve since they're not too expensive. I hope to measure it off the new one when I get it. Debating if I keep new valve on the shelf if needed or just throw it in and be sure. I will post the kit I got from AA though in hopes it would help someone else.
 

Nutty 5.0

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No I haven’t yet. They sent me a revised tune yesterday which I loaded today. Need someone or my wife to datalog while i drive.
 

Nutty 5.0

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This is the new Evap valve part #CX-2409. I didn't want to open the package to measure, but if you are installing an upgraded blower that needs this to come out, it may be worth grabbing one. I know I would have.
IMG_4638.JPG
IMG_4639.JPG
 

Nutty 5.0

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Have you data logged any pulls since adding octane booster, are you still see +knock?
With another 50 miles and the updated tune, I did get their blessing with the new tune data logs. Looks like they have added a bit of timing (15-15.5) with knock of .25-1 at most since my last datalog. So i'd like to think it is helping. Boostane won't be a regular thing for me, but I will use the other half of the Pro bottle I have in the next tank and datalog again.
 

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