Short shifter or blowfish support bracket?

Pribilof

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I think poly engine mounts are a better solution to the torque straps, but certainly not any more difficult to install on a later model. I purchased the torque straps, but I didn't install them. I felt like it was putting stress on the engine block in an area that was not designed for that sort of load and that poly engine mounts would end up doing the same thing by minimizing the effects of engine torque on the liquid filled motor mounts. It will probably have a little more NHV than the torque straps, but once the engine heats up I hardly notice it.

I have BMR engine mounts sitting on my workshop bench. A bit intimidated to install them. Any tips?
 

Catmonkey

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I have BMR engine mounts sitting on my workshop bench. A bit intimidated to install them. Any tips?

I put a bottle jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood that covers the whole bottom of the oil pan. Just barely loosen the nut on the top of the mount on one side and remove the nut on the one you want to tackle first. Jack up the engine about a half inch (you may need to go higher later) and loosen the two bolts that hold the mount to the K-member. You'll need a long extension and both sides can be accessed from up top. Passenger side is a little tighter clearance wise. The mount should be able to be wiggled out at that point. Consider jacking the engine up a little higher if you're not having much luck removing. The stud on top may give you a little grief on clearance. The plastic insulators around the mount may make it difficult to get out of there, but once the mount is loose, you should be able to separate them from the mount and remove them first. Once it's out, install your new mounts on that side and lower the engine. You don't want to fully tighten the top bolt that goes though the engine mounting bracket until the other side is finished. You need for the engine to move a little on the opposite side that your changing, but not too loose that it starts lifting the whole engine upward. You want it loose enough so it tilts, that's all.

I have to admit when when I swapped out the OEM mounts, the engine was out of the car, but I have removed the aftermarket mounts several times doing just what I posted. If you have headers it may be more of a challenge with the OEM mounts.
 

Catmonkey

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Just ordered my MGW2. Anybody able to install it without lowering the transmission?
Maybe if you had little tiny baby arms and hands. In all seriousness, I think it would be impossible if you didn't drop it. You have to drop the cross member and you're going to need something to support the transmission anyway.
 

KevinD92

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Maybe if you had little tiny baby arms and hands. In all seriousness, I think it would be impossible if you didn't drop it. You have to drop the cross member and you're going to need something to support the transmission anyway.
I’m wondering what my best option would be as I’m doing the install with the front end on race ramps.
 

Robert M

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I’m wondering what my best option would be as I’m doing the install with the front end on race ramps.

FYI - Don't leave it up on the Race Ramps (front only) for too long, that puts the battery at an angle and drip, drip, drip out of the vented caps, into the battery box, down into the lower portion of the battery box, out the drain hole in the bottom and onto the frame rail. It also gets battery acid on the rear bushing/sleeve of the front LCA.

R
 

SCGallo2

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I’m wondering what my best option would be as I’m doing the install with the front end on race ramps.

Do yourself a favor and raise the rear of the car up also for more room to work. Lower and support the transmission with a jack stand or blocks and remove the cross member for better access. Below is the combination of tools I use when working under my car.

Elevated Shelby.jpg


Lifting and support tools.jpg
 

KevinD92

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Do yourself a favor and raise the rear of the car up also for more room to work. Lower and support the transmission with a jack stand or blocks and remove the cross member for better access. Below is the combination of tools I use when working under my car.

View attachment 1557824

View attachment 1557825
Where do you jack from the rear to get those wheels up? I may order a set of the race ramp blocks
 

KevinD92

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FYI - Don't leave it up on the Race Ramps (front only) for too long, that puts the battery at an angle and drip, drip, drip out of the vented caps, into the battery box, down into the lower portion of the battery box, out the drain hole in the bottom and onto the frame rail. It also gets battery acid on the rear bushing/sleeve of the front LCA.

R
I have looked and found nothing about this? It looks like plenty of people only keep the front half up on ramps only?
 

SCGallo2

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Where do you jack from the rear to get those wheels up? I may order a set of the race ramp blocks

I use jacking inserts on the lower body pinch welds to raise the rear tires high enough to set on top of 2 stacked 2x6s so I can get my floor jack far enough under the car to center it on the base of the rear differential (I'm a pumpkin jacker), and that allows me to raise the car high enough to set wheel cribs under the rear tires. You could also use jack stands under the rear axle.

Jacking insert and rails.jpg
 

Bad Company

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I run both the Blowfish mount and the MGW2 shifter assembly. I thought this combination was going to add significant amounts of NVH to the interior cabin of the car, but it did not. Now my engine is sitting on BMR poly mounts that lowers the engine a 1/2". The transmission crossmember is a Shelby Performance billet piece that also drops the transmission a 1/2". This is why I wanted the Blowfish mount, I wanted to lose the OEM rear body mount of the shifter to the tunnel of the car to retain the stock geometry of the linkage between the shifter and transmission.

This combination netted a much easier and smoother shift between 1-2 gears even when the transmission is cold without changing the transmission fluid from the original OEM fluids.

I highly recommend this combo
 

Robert M

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I have looked and found nothing about this? It looks like plenty of people only keep the front half up on ramps only?

It happened to me..........and I am sure it has happened to others. The batteries are vented, when the car is at an angle and the liquid is at the vents, it leaks.

I would say most owners either don't notice it and/or it dries before they notice it. Either way, it is battery acid and we know what it does to metal and painted surfaces if it is not dealt with in a timely manner.

R
 
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Cman01

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I run both the Blowfish mount and the MGW2 shifter assembly. I thought this combination was going to add significant amounts of NVH to the interior cabin of the car, but it did not. Now my engine is sitting on BMR poly mounts that lowers the engine a 1/2". The transmission crossmember is a Shelby Performance billet piece that also drops the transmission a 1/2". This is why I wanted the Blowfish mount, I wanted to lose the OEM rear body mount of the shifter to the tunnel of the car to retain the stock geometry of the linkage between the shifter and transmission.

This combination netted a much easier and smoother shift between 1-2 gears even when the transmission is cold without changing the transmission fluid from the original OEM fluids.

I highly recommend this combo

Finally, somebody that actually did the bracket and has some legit feedback on it instead of just "forget the bracket and get a MGW2 shifter blah blah blah"

So, now that you have installed the bracket can you tell me if it eliminated the shift grind/lockout issue or do you still get it occasionally?

I still have the stock shifter but I'm running a KR mount and Revan support arm bushings, I don't really feel any significant slop in my shifter compared to videos I've seen. I'm thinking of getting the bracket to see if I can lose the lockout cause that really is a total pisser on an otherwise great car.

I've posted this before but I'm gonna add it here also so people can see the slop (or lack of) in my shifter now, I personally don't think getting the MGW2 is going to really help with this problem but I'm hoping the blowfish bracket will.


Tony
 

Catmonkey

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I've posted this before but I'm gonna add it here also so people can see the slop (or lack of) in my shifter now, I personally don't think getting the MGW2 is going to really help with this problem but I'm hoping the blowfish bracket will.
Start watching at about 8:20 and you might change your mind.

 

Cman01

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Seen that numerous times already the last few years (did you watch my vid?). I have never seen or heard of any positive proof that changing to that shifter gets rid of the grind/lockout and I'm getting tired of throwing parts at my car hoping it will fix this or that.

I'm not even sure I want to throw that bracket on my car but I talked myself into trying that first.
 

SCGallo2

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I have never seen or heard of any positive proof that changing to that shifter gets rid of the grind/lockout and I'm getting tired of throwing parts at my car hoping it will fix this or that.

Read this: https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/revan-racing-shifter-bushings-vs-mgw-gen2-shifter.1130060/

It's an honest and impartial review. I get that you don't want to throw money at your problem without a guarantee that it will fix your grind/lockout issue. MGW Gen2 is a great shifter and following your posts, you seem like someone who would really appreciate this component. With my 2008, I have never had a chronic grind/lockout "problem". Out of about 30 drag strip passes, I was locked out/ground second gear 2 or 3 times max (never on the street), which in my case may have been sloppy clutching or out-shifting the synchro. I haven't been to the strip since I installed my MGW, but I love it on the street and road course. If a MGW Gen2 with an extended shift lever can fix your grind/lockout issue, in my opinion, it's because it slows your shift down just enough for the synchro to accept the next gear. Good luck with whichever route you take.
 

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