Coyote or build 99 Cobra engine up

Real98roush

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Okay, here is where Ive landed.

MMR can build me a stroker motor 10k

Ford Racing.Performance Coyote Aluminator 10k.

I am leaning on Aluminator.

Where to buy?

Does the Ford Racing setup include a control pack, gas pedal and accessory drive?


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Brutal Metal

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If I was gonna resort to putting a Coyote in my Cobra I'd do what 98SalCobra said, get an F-150 truck motor and save MANY thousands..
 
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Brutal Metal

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doesn't a 99 cobra have the good teksid block?
Yes I built mine many years ago still running great. A small bore, new rods and pistons, re-use the oem crank, good fasteners, bolt on some forced induction and have fun. Depending on boost levels you'll see 400-700HP.
 

SuperMarauder

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yea thats the block that Accufab swears is the strongest mod block to this day and can handle more psi and endure for years. 1500 to 2500 HP! Second in line is the GT car 5.4 block, both proven road race blocks.
For road race mod motors, Elan Motorsport Tech in California or Roush out here are the top of the game. Put 13k in that direction and you will be seeing corvettes and coyotes in the rear view. start with big darton sleeves and find some gt heads by R-Yates or stock. build it up from there into 9000 rpm flame throwing vette eater!

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decipha

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I would highly recommend you keep your current engine. Don't bother with any ford 2v or 4v heads as they simply just don't make any power. Toss yourself a set of trickflow heads on it and get yourself a nice set of cams from mark over at bullet. I have yet to ever tune a single 4.6 tfs headed engine that made less than 370rwhp n/a with the smaller tfs head (non cnc R head) combos mind you. Most are in the 380rwhp range and I have done some that just tickled 400rwhp on 93 pump gas. If you want to go big bore and toss the trickflow 195-R cnc ported heads you can pick up even more power. For reference, my 5.4 with trickflow 195-r heads in my 02 harley truck made 454rwhp naturally aspirated. Be sure if you do go that route you get with mark at bullet as the R heads and the regular tfs heads have completely different cams due to the aftermarket head design of the R heads. Mike over at LMengines can also cut you a set of cams as well for either head. I wouldn't recommend any other cam grinder as most aren't familiar with the tfs heads needs.
 

SuperMarauder

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FORD GT HEADS MAKE MORE POWER THAN TFS OR HELLEPANT HANDS DOWN AND WILL DO 24 HRS AT DAYTONA STOCK .........AND GET YOU HOME!

under 13k,
hellepant installed 30k?
 

01yellercobra

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I would highly recommend you keep your current engine. Don't bother with any ford 2v or 4v heads as they simply just don't make any power. Toss yourself a set of trickflow heads on it and get yourself a nice set of cams from mark over at bullet. I have yet to ever tune a single 4.6 tfs headed engine that made less than 370rwhp n/a with the smaller tfs head (non cnc R head) combos mind you. Most are in the 380rwhp range and I have done some that just tickled 400rwhp on 93 pump gas. If you want to go big bore and toss the trickflow 195-R cnc ported heads you can pick up even more power. For reference, my 5.4 with trickflow 195-r heads in my 02 harley truck made 454rwhp naturally aspirated. Be sure if you do go that route you get with mark at bullet as the R heads and the regular tfs heads have completely different cams due to the aftermarket head design of the R heads. Mike over at LMengines can also cut you a set of cams as well for either head. I wouldn't recommend any other cam grinder as most aren't familiar with the tfs heads needs.

I think this might be the one time I disagree with you. I would stick with the 4V set up personally. The money he'd put into swapping to a 2V head he could invest in porting his current heads. You also can't compare a 5.4 directly to the 4.6. The displacement makes a huge difference. My 5.3 made 326rwhp, but it had stock 04 heads, stock 01 intake, GT cams, and "low" compression. If I had built that engine as an N/A set up I'm sure 400rwhp wouldn't have been a problem. But that wasn't the goal.

FWIW, I did know a guy with 5.3 and FRPP 3V heads that made 435rwp I believe. But it was a 12:1 engine on E85. Just have to go with what you want.

OP, is your budget 10k or is that just where you ended up?
 

NotsoFastFreddie

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For road course NA is the direction I am going. 10k was the initial budget but with news trans, K member and clutch I am now figuring 15k all in.

Great comments. Still leaning on Coyote. 91 Octane is all I can run in CALIF so we are limited.

I do like my mod motor but need 100HP more reliable power for road course work. Building this motor vs a new one is a tough.
 

FIREBALL

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I am getting lost, just when I thought Im getting up to speed on some of the options (blocks, heads) this thread has got me really confused on what way the O.P. should go. I mean one person says go with a truck block-- and another says go with GT heads, --one says go with trick flow heads, Lol, and the list goes on,----------Well if there was a Coyote plug and play conversion kit and it would pass Calif. smog (c.a.r.b.) thats the way to go but if not then you should probably build your existing engine. --- if it is strictly for a track car that would be a different thing. Actually for me, If I didnt have to pass smog and my engine was worn out I would convert to a stroked 351W.
 
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01yellercobra

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I am getting lost, just when I thought Im getting up to speed on some of the options (blocks, heads) this thread has got me really confused on what would be a good way to go. I mean one person says go with a truck block-- and another says go with GT heads, --one says go with trick flow heads, Lol, and the list goes on,----------Well if there was a Coyote plug and play conversion kit and it would pass Calif. smog (c.a.r.b.) thats the way to go but if not then you should probably build your existing engine. --- if it is strictly for a track car that would be a different thing. Actually If I didnt have to pass smog and my engine was worn out I would convert to a stroked 351W.

Are you referring to the comment about using the 5.0 out of an F150? They're supposed to be much cheaper. But my understanding is that the intake cams need to be swapped, the compression is lower than the Mustang version, and the timing cover might need to be changed. But that's just what I've seen/read. I've never swapped a Coyote into anything and probably never will.

IMO, for a 4V car stick with a 4V set up. You can make 600hp with stock heads and cams. And more than that with more boost and octane. For me that's pretty good. But some want more.

I can't see why the Coyote wouldn't pass smog. To do it right all of the emission equipment needs to be in place and it needs to be checked out by a referee station. But it's possible. I know a guy that swapped a 93 Cobra drivetrain into an early 80's LTD and it's 100% smog legal.

But like I keep saying, I'd stick with the 4.6.
 

FIREBALL

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I can't see why the Coyote wouldn't pass smog. To do it right all of the emission equipment needs to be in place and it needs to be checked out by a referee station. But it's possible. I know a guy that swapped a 93 Cobra drivetrain into an early 80's LTD and it's 100% smog legal. But like I keep saying, I'd stick with the 4.6.

Its legal in Calif. to swap in any engine as long as the engine is newer than the year of car and as long as all smog stuff is installed but with OBDII cars (late 95 and newer) it makes it difficult. That LTD was a non OBDII and so was that 93 engine, that makes it much easier and cheaper to swap in an engine.
 
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GodStang

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I am getting lost, just when I thought Im getting up to speed on some of the options (blocks, heads) this thread has got me really confused on what would be a good way to go. I mean one person says go with a truck block-- and another says go with GT heads, --one says go with trick flow heads, Lol, and the list goes on,----------Well if there was a Coyote plug and play conversion kit and it would pass Calif. smog (c.a.r.b.) thats the way to go but if not then you should probably build your existing engine. --- if it is strictly for a track car that would be a different thing. Actually If I didnt have to pass smog and my engine was worn out I would convert to a stroked 351W.

No not trickflow heads as those are 2V and the price to convert everything to 2V plus the price of the heads would make that build pointless as you would end up what you could inexpensively do to a 4V.

Best 4V heads are the Trinity heads (GT/GT500) heads. You could build an insane N/A 4.6L/5.4L with those heads but they are a bit $$$ and if you port them even more.

I know a lot of people that do Coyote do a truck motor since you can get them with transmission for under $1500. The down fall is the cams and reduced compression. Now if you are opening it up then that is the way to go.

Seeing small PD blowers on a stock coyote motor hit 700rw and Turbos hitting over 900rw stock its hard for me not to choose the Coyote motor other than price. It is truly a better platform. There are guys that claim complete Coyote swaps for under $5K but I have yet to see the parts layout so I am skeptical.

That being said it is always nice to keep the original type motor and you can still build a very nice motor with the 4.6L you have now. So many ways to go.

I plan to find a 98 BAB Cobra with a dead motor and install a Coyote motor in it.
 

FIREBALL

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So there are truck motors that are actually Coyote motors but with down graded compression and cams?
 

NotsoFastFreddie

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Thanks for the comments guys. Keep in mind this is a street legal road course car. For road course and reliability its NA build.
 

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