lol New tuner please..... Tuner must be having a bad day an DGAF.
Head studs.
- Thread starter blwn03sonic
- Start date
sadly I learned the hard way that just because a tuner has a big name does not mean they know what they are doing. I was getting my car tuned on the dyno and the turner could not even get my car to idle. He would start the car and just started flooring it over and over and as soon as he took his foot off the gas it would stall. We finally had enough and limped it onto the trailer. The tuner claimed I built the fuel system wrong. I took it to another tuner and in 15 mins they other tuner had it running perfect.
Guess to for TTY Bolts it depends if its iron or aluminum block. You don't seem to get much psi out of a aluminium block with TTY.
Aluminium sounds great on paper but seem like a pain in the butt to build one the right for high hp.. and the money. All the expansion and contraction going on. Years of experience to get that combo right...
Aluminium sounds great on paper but seem like a pain in the butt to build one the right for high hp.. and the money. All the expansion and contraction going on. Years of experience to get that combo right...
I think quite a few of us have stories to tell. After my second tuner couldn't get my car running right I ended up buying the software and doing it myself. It's probably the best money I spent. I know a lot more because of it now.
Funny that you say that. I'm pretty sure my buddies engine was built using an aluminum block. And it had head studs.
Sounds about right. lol definitely need to torque-plate and hone that. could have .015-.025 difference. plus depends on the temp...
Looks super easy here. Lol.
.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lol man I use to be like that. Not gonna lie. But when you start making decent high range hp and using it all and putting it to the ground. It just dont hold up.
It a whole different animal. 2 thousandths can cost of 9k or more.
Lol I don't have deep pockets anymore sooo
It a whole different animal. 2 thousandths can cost of 9k or more.
Lol I don't have deep pockets anymore sooo
I just put a set of ARP 2000 headstuds in my car this winter. Hardest part was removing the driver valve cover (had to loosen hydroboost). I did not even need to loosen my K member. It's a very easy job.
--Joe
--Joe
Driver side is easier than passenger side. Passenger side I had to tilt the motor a bit because the stud hits the shock tower. Lots of room on driver side though.
--Joe
Depends on which studs you buy. ARP includes directions or you can download them from the ARP website for the specific kit you get.
--Joe
Thanks. I did a set on a sonic blue I owned. I had the motor out and had the heads rebuilt because of a bad valve or guide. I forgot the set I got. I think there was three stages and I had to use a dial at the last stage
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No reason to do 3 stages if you are doing it in the car one at a time. Your head gaskets are already crushed. Just torque to final spec.
--Joe
If you're talking about measuring the degrees of the turn you shouldn't have to do that with studs. At least I didn't with mine. I just torqued them to the specified values. Usually measuring the degrees of the turn is for a TTY fastener.
Total B.S. that you cannot install head studs with the engine in the car. Thinking you have to thread them all in, then set set the heads down is a rookie move. You set the heads on the dowels and then the studs can be threaded in one at a time - just like head bolts.
I used the ARP2000 version on an Aluminum block just fine - only used two per side initally (although the engine was on a stand) just to be sure I didn't let the heads slip. They could have all been threaded in after the heads were on the decks - that is why the dowels are there.
Complete build with all the specs ---> Aluminator Gibtec Build
I used the ARP2000 version on an Aluminum block just fine - only used two per side initally (although the engine was on a stand) just to be sure I didn't let the heads slip. They could have all been threaded in after the heads were on the decks - that is why the dowels are there.
Complete build with all the specs ---> Aluminator Gibtec Build
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Users who are viewing this thread
