Will Hellion Single Kit make 1000whp?

I find it funny you guys are mentioning being worried about running pump gas with a turbo setup. As long as your waste gate spring is light enough dropping the boost to make it happy is easy you just touch a boost controller button. You don't have to do an hour worth of work removing belts and changing pullies like a blower car.

I would set your motor up for 11:1, once you are done with a head gasket, valve job on heads your actual compression is going to be under 11. Plan for cranking compression north of 200-220psi I would say.

bull_dog190 said:

What is the max compression you would recommend for someone that wants to switch between E85 and pump 91 regularly?

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If it will run on 91, and anything over 8psi on 91, I personally wouldn’t cross 9.5/1 on a factory ecu, or 10.5/1 on a well situated and safety net secured standalone with knock, retard, fuel or spark kill etc. I like the safety’s that can be set up with a Holley EFI.

Pre detonation is the culprit that sacks so many engines, and 91 burns hot. 93, 100 etc all burn cooler and need less worry. E85 is exceptional. I’m not near to it so I am stuck with pump or race gas.

04torchred said:

I find it funny you guys are mentioning being worried about running pump gas with a turbo setup. As long as your waste gate spring is light enough dropping the boost to make it happy is easy you just touch a boost controller button. You don't have to do an hour worth of work removing belts and changing pullies like a blower car.

I would set your motor up for 11:1, once you are done with a head gasket, valve job on heads your actual compression is going to be under 11. Plan for cranking compression north of 200-220psi I would say.

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Switching boost is very easy on a turbo car, but there are 3 major things to consider.

1. Wastegate springs for 1-10psi are very flimsy and fail easily in 11-20psi environments, as do 21-30psi springs. There is a general range to stay within.

I actually run a 10psi spring which is fine but slightly problematic when I run 30psi. Also, I can’t run less than 10psi, my floor for racing or just cruising is 800whp. Poor me I know, but unless I want to put a 5psi spring in, my cruising is limited to lots of human traction control. I’m fine with that because I like to fill the tank with 110 octane and run 15-20psi often enough that switching springs would be annoying from 5psi springs to my current ones.

2. Human error. Forget the settings on say 22psi, throw in pump gas, and man it sucks... I haven’t personally done this but it happens and it’s a sad event. Lower compression won’t save you from this, but it is much harder to blow up a 9:1 or 9.5:1 mill on 20psi than a 11:1 on 20psi. Humans have terrible memories and are bound to screw up.

3. What’s the intended use for the car? While the extra torque at low rpm from compression is always welcome, it may not be needed unless it’s in lots of lugging or stop go situations. I had a factory long block 4.6 with hp racing’s kit running 57’s and a Sullivan upper intake with 3.55 rear and it was more than torqey and spool happy. It made 756whp on 15psi and 91 octane.

If I was close to e85, I’d run 11/1 and 5psi springs but I’m 40 miles away.

bull_dog190 said:

10.5 safe for low boost pump gas?

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badcobra said:

Low compression is the 'old way'. No turbo build that runs on e85 should be less than 10.5 compression, period.

You can run that compression fine on pump gas for low boost/timing.

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Bingo, stay under 8psi. You can run 12-14psi but it’s right at the risky point. I’d go no higher than 10psi on 10.5/1 with a factory ecu running off a handheld programmer.

If you have a stand alone, 10-12 psi is fine on 10.5/1 even without direct injection but it’s still a somewhat butt puckering all in point of existence.

I’ve seen guys run 15psi on 11/1 and pump gas with stock ecu, but it’s just asking for kaboom in no short order. Get it hot or have a radiator failure get it hot and it’s game over imo at that range.

Depends on the dynamic compression.

In my experience there is no point in dual fueling. Build it for a goal on the fuel you choose and then have a back up plan if you’re stuck.
I run E85 and build to maximize my combo on that fuel. If I’m on a road trip and get stuck with 91/93, the car will get a fully neutered timing tune and I’ll drive like Miss Daisy. No way I’d forget what fuel is in the car and the consequences.
4-digit power is no joke and the guys that really make that understand the priority for quality fuel.
Regarding the initial question, for a 1000rwhp goal on a Hellion kit, I’d want 10.5 compression minimum and a 4” downpipe.
-J

biminiLX said:

In my experience there is no point in dual fueling. Build it for a goal on the fuel you choose and then have a back up plan if you’re stuck.
I run E85 and build to maximize my combo on that fuel. If I’m on a road trip and get stuck with 91/93, the car will get a fully neutered timing tune and I’ll drive like Miss Daisy. No way I’d forget what fuel is in the car and the consequences.
4-digit power is no joke and the guys that really make that understand the priority for quality fuel.
Regarding the initial question, for a 1000rwhp goal on a Hellion kit, I’d want 10.5 compression minimum and a 4” downpipe.
-J

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This is exactly what I was referring to earlier. Never try to make max power on 91 and E85. 91 tune should be "get me home" tune. Keep a 55 drum at the house with a pump for the E85. Fill it up every couple months. Makes running E85 super easy.

Agreed. Luckily I have 5 good E85 stations within 5 miles that test strong all year.
For my next build I’m planning some E98 and going with a drum to be able to mix my own if needed.
People may say E85 is a pain, but spending less than pump 87 that makes as much power as race 116, and most importantly enjoying full timing all the time (easily 100rwhp/tq on a 4 digit combo running corn over 93) is worth any hassle.
-J

biminiLX said:

In my experience there is no point in dual fueling. Build it for a goal on the fuel you choose and then have a back up plan if you’re stuck.
I run E85 and build to maximize my combo on that fuel. If I’m on a road trip and get stuck with 91/93, the car will get a fully neutered timing tune and I’ll drive like Miss Daisy. No way I’d forget what fuel is in the car and the consequences.
4-digit power is no joke and the guys that really make that understand the priority for quality fuel.
Regarding the initial question, for a 1000rwhp goal on a Hellion kit, I’d want 10.5 compression minimum and a 4” downpipe.
-J

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+100.

I’ve been cruising my cobra a little this weekend, and forgot I’d taken the thermostat out for a fully open unit last summer.

I’m sitting there on the freeway at 150° coolant temp 10 minutes into a drive with 75psi of oil pressure at very light throttle... 91 octane pump gas and 10psi too.

My buddys like “floor it it’s gonna rip”

I’m like “no. Oil and heads are way to cold, cylinders aren’t going to fully burn and the heads won’t fully expel.”

“Floor it, it’ll make so much power right now being so cold outside!!!”

“No, it makes the most power when the engine is at operating temp and the inlet air is 32.1°. Right now it would just churn and lurch through boost like a hiccuping alcoholic”

“Floor it!!!”

He drives a beat up charger Srt8... that runs like it needs a new fuel pump. And an oil change.