Lowering help?

14coyote6669

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Hey guys just looking for some feedback on exactly what I should be getting to lower my 2014. Was looking into coilovers, but I'm not sure that's the path I should be going in. Trying to keep everything sorta less than a 1000$ I understand I could just buy springs and a panhard bar, but I know I will need struts soon. I'm looking for a pretty aggressive drop. Would love some feedback! Cheers!

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TVSed GT

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You can pick up a set of eibach sport lines for about $300 that will lower approx 1.5”. A set of koni yellow shocks and struts will set you back around $700. A decent panhard bar like Whiteline is about $130. A touch over $1000 but part of mustang ownership is the joys of blowing past your build budget!
 

8ballBooker

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From the vast research ive done, I would diffenetely recommend the struts. Ive read way too much of guys ruining the factory struts and then having to pull everything out again. You can also use 05-10 struts with the ford performance mounts.

I somehow came acroos Eibach pro dampers on amazon of all places for about $320.

I figured to do it right and buy the pieces as I could to save a headache later.

Check my previous post, some real good info from the guys.

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8ballBooker

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From the vast research ive done, I would diffenetely recommend the struts. Ive read way too much of guys ruining the factory struts and then having to pull everything out again. You can also use 05-10 struts with the ford performance mounts.

I somehow came acroos Eibach pro dampers on amazon of all places for about $320.

I figured to do it right and buy the pieces as I could to save a headache later.

Check my previous post, some real good info from the guys.

Sent from my LG-LS993 using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I souldve stated, I came across that amazon deal when I bought mine. Steeda has a sale right now.

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Norm Peterson

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Actually, I'd put the PHB on a "wait and see" list. Get it only if you discover that you really do need it, not just because right now you think you might. Reports that you may have read about how far the axle may have moved tend to be exaggerated because other peoples' measurements may not have been made under the same vehicle condition.

When lowering and the various "control arms" are still OE, you want to loosen all of the control arm bolts and settle the car in at its new ride height before retorquing them (and this would include the OE PHB's bushings assuming that you're going to give it a chance at remaining OK). Retorquing MUST be done with the full car weight resting on the wheels, which means on ramps or on a drive-on lift. Otherwise, you're likely to not get as much "drop" as you're expecting. Worst case, now that the bushings are preloaded by the lowering, you can overstress the bushings themselves (possibly tearing them).

At least consider the more moderate amounts of lowering. Steering and suspension tend to deteriorate the further away from OE ride height you go, unless you're going to correct those things (there's more to this than what a normal alignment gets involved with). Appearance-wise, a "slammed" car always looks like it's overloaded (or the springs have sagged badly) when the tire is clearly not centered in the wheel opening. Tire to fender gap at the top gets smaller, but that's the only place (at the very bottom of the car, the gaps get bigger).


Norm
 
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8ballBooker

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Thanks for the feedback guys, first mustang I've owned, drove a 85 regal for about 4 years. Lots to learn hahahah

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Friend of mine had an 85' regal in college (early 2000's) that car was great. In my early 20's I had an Integra GSR during the fast and furious fad (although that car was awesome). I had some stuff, a spoiler, rims, used exhaust, and intake. Sad to say, I honestly just didnt have the money at thay point in my life to have it lowered. What ever route you go, have fun with your car, that's all that matters. Even at 41 with a good paying job, im generally buying a piece at a time or waiting for tax returns, etc...

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Norm Peterson

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Thanks for the feedback guys, first mustang I've owned, drove a 85 regal for about 4 years. Lots to learn hahahah
World of difference, eh?

I had a '79 Malibu (same basic chassis), which I'd bought new and to order. Suspensionwise, those RWD GM intermediates had more in common with the Fox/SN95/New Edge Mustangs.


Norm
 

D1984

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look at my setup. if you want the car to handle properly, you need to do more than just springs and a panhard bar. what i have now is what it needed to finally handle perfect/amazing and not move all over the place on bumpy roads.
 

Norm Peterson

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There's more than one path to a good-handling S197 . . . my '08 was datalogging well above 1g in the corners even when it was still on its OE springs. Haven't added relo brackets or done anything about the PHB except to DIY-stiffen its bushings a bit.


Norm
 

D1984

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There's more than one path to a good-handling S197 . . . my '08 was datalogging well above 1g in the corners even when it was still on its OE springs. Haven't added relo brackets or done anything about the PHB except to DIY-stiffen its bushings a bit.


Norm

the panhard bar is only if you have axle centering issues and the relocation brackets are only if you lower it more than i would say 1". i can see stock springs pulling high Gs since that is mostly about tires. i was commenting more on stability, steering response, accuracy, and chassis control and response
 

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