Which GT500 Is Best For Me? 07-09 / 10 / 11-12 / 13-14

SVTCobra60 · Jan 29, 2019

Hey,

Looking for informed opinions. I'm not completely sure what all of the differences are between each of the year groups, hopefully someone can help me out.
I know most of the general things like engine displacement/composition (aluminum/iron). Not positive if the TR6060 drastically changes very much in any of the year groups.

What I would be interested in getting into is a well built GT500 that can support north of 750+rwhp. Would be side/weekend car. Will never see the 1/8 or 1/4. May possibly bring it to roll racing events or the like.

- Outside of purely exterior changes/appearance, what seems to be the consensus on the best GT500 year range to go for when looking to make pretty big power (700-1000+) range. Take into account increased cost vs. usefulness. So if the 5.8 makes the most power (assuming it would) is it enough to justify the added cost, etc.
- What needs to be built at these power levels? I am assuming forged pistons/rods etc will need to be done, along with possibly a built up transmission?

Thanks in advance

SVTCobra60 · Jan 29, 2019

Hey,

Looking for informed opinions. I'm not completely sure what all of the differences are between each of the year groups, hopefully someone can help me out.
I know most of the general things like engine displacement/composition (aluminum/iron). Not positive if the TR6060 drastically changes very much in any of the year groups.

What I would be interested in getting into is a well built GT500 that can support north of 750+rwhp. Would be side/weekend car. Will never see the 1/8 or 1/4. May possibly bring it to roll racing events or the like.

- Outside of purely exterior changes/appearance, what seems to be the consensus on the best GT500 year range to go for when looking to make pretty big power (700-1000+) range. Take into account increased cost vs. usefulness. So if the 5.8 makes the most power (assuming it would) is it enough to justify the added cost, etc.
- What needs to be built at these power levels? I am assuming forged pistons/rods etc will need to be done, along with possibly a built up transmission?

Thanks in advance

RedVenom48 · Jan 29, 2019

First, welcome to the GT500 section!

To answer your question, there can be many paths. If we define built as the entire package (engine mechanical and mods), it identifies what you have in store for you.

2007-2009: S197 Gen1 GT500 body style. 5.4L Iron block, Alum heads, Terminator camshafts. 500 hp. TR-6060 and gearing remain the same. Block and crank are good to over 1000, pistons and rods are about 700 rwhp safe (IMO). Pretty good but pushing it for safe power. Hydraulic p/s. Brembo 4 pots up front, S197 rear brakes. 3.55 Gears

2010: Hybrid year. 07-09 power train in S197 Gen 2 body. Crude knock sensor system installed. all other systems and parts carryover. 540 hp.

2011: First year of the Aluminum block for the GT500. 550 hp. 11-12 feature 5.4L displacement. Crank good to over 1200 hp, pistons developed by Mahle are same as in 2012 Cobra Jet are good to 1000 (confirmed multiple times calling Mahle Motorsports). 1st year for SVT Performance Pack (suspension upgrades, factory 3.73s and unique stripes). Brakes carry over. 1st year for Electric power steering. 11-12 fuel system control unique from 07-10.

The bad: 1st usage of PTWA (spray on) liners. Extremely tough but extremely thin. Honing typically required for new pistons/rings could cut through to Aluminum block. Sleeving on 2011-2012 builds recommended (more on this later).

2012: Carry over year. Options for car now include Recaro racing seats

2013-14: The Trinity. 662 hp from a 5.8L version of 4v Modular. Alum block with PTWA liners. Supercharger upgraded to 2.3L Eaton TVS. TR-6060 regeared for 200+ mph top speed. Rear gears 3.31 for 200 mph top speed. Carbon fiber drive shaft. Trans and differential coolers available. Electric performance shocks and struts by Bilstien. upgraded instrument cluster and track apps. Alum block and heads with many small upgrades over the 11-12, but basic architecture is the same. PTWA liners return, unique pistons, rings and rods. Now using Ford GT Supercar camshaft profiles. Upgraded charge air cooling system. Many more Im sure Im missing.

Youd get to 750+ whp with a pulley swap and switch to E85 on the 2013-2014 GT500s. Con (in my opinion) is the gearing in the trans and rear end. You're still looking at a price premium for these years. Factory replacement parts arent cheap if you can still find them (common Mustang parts excluded).

11-12 are a good bargain for what youre getting. Will need a blower swap to at least the 2.3L TVS to hit 750+. Right on the edge of what the rods can safely handle but its doable. I have an 11 and I called Mahle to the get the scoop on the pistons. 11-12 share the same pistons as the 2012 Cobra Jets. Their car guy to car guy advice was tear down to shorblock, inspect liners. If they look ok, replace the rods, balance rotating assembly and reassemble reusing the factory pistons and rings ( in the same bores they came out of) Now good to 1000 rwhp. Thats the plan Im going with my car, and Im ok with that decision based on personal experience doing engine work on Lexus cars.

Should you sleeve? Probably the safest route if going over a solid 800 RWHP. Your mileage may vary.

The 07-10 engines are pretty good. Block and crank are solid, but the rods and pistons are the weak link IMO. Excellent benefit is that the iron block can be easily honed to accept new pistons and rings or bored for larger displacement without the need for sleeving.

gimmie11s · Jan 29, 2019

They all make the same power with similar mods although the 13/14 cars might be 20-40 hp more once you are a max effort bolt on car.

Buy the lowest mile, 1 owner car you can find in your price range.

Building a motor for the 13/14 is extremely expensive compared to an iron motor car.... like 5x as expensive. Keep that in mind.

07-10 cars do not have factory wide bands and some tuners (Lund) will require you to add a WB before they tune you.

However, 07-10 cars are a Huge bargain right now.

I paid $29k for my 07 2 years ago for original owner with 6k miles. I was actually shopping for an 11-12 car but couldn’t pass up the deal.

I loved the 07 and would have another in a heartbeat.

Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

SVTCobra60 · Jan 29, 2019

lexustech48 said:
First, welcome to the GT500 section!

To answer your question, there can be many paths. If we define built as the entire package (engine mechanical and mods), it identifies what you have in store for you.

2007-2009: S197 Gen1 GT500 body style. 5.4L Iron block, Alum heads, Terminator camshafts. 500 hp. TR-6060 and gearing remain the same. Block and crank are good to over 1000, pistons and rods are about 700 rwhp safe (IMO). Pretty good but pushing it for safe power. Hydraulic p/s. Brembo 4 pots up front, S197 rear brakes. 3.55 Gears

2010: Hybrid year. 07-09 power train in S197 Gen 2 body. Crude knock sensor system installed. all other systems and parts carryover. 540 hp.

2011: First year of the Aluminum block for the GT500. 550 hp. 11-12 feature 5.4L displacement. Crank good to over 1200 hp, pistons developed by Mahle are same as in 2012 Cobra Jet are good to 1000 (confirmed multiple times calling Mahle Motorsports). 1st year for SVT Performance Pack (suspension upgrades, factory 3.73s and unique stripes). Brakes carry over. 1st year for Electric power steering. 11-12 fuel system control unique from 07-10.

The bad: 1st usage of PTWA (spray on) liners. Extremely tough but extremely thin. Honing typically required for new pistons/rings could cut through to Aluminum block. Sleeving on 2011-2012 builds recommended (more on this later).

2012: Carry over year. Options for car now include Recaro racing seats

2013-14: The Trinity. 662 hp from a 5.8L version of 4v Modular. Alum block with PTWA liners. Supercharger upgraded to 2.3L Eaton TVS. TR-6060 regeared for 200+ mph top speed. Rear gears 3.31 for 200 mph top speed. Carbon fiber drive shaft. Trans and differential coolers available. Electric performance shocks and struts by Bilstien. upgraded instrument cluster and track apps. Alum block and heads with many small upgrades over the 11-12, but basic architecture is the same. PTWA liners return, unique pistons, rings and rods. Now using Ford GT Supercar camshaft profiles. Upgraded charge air cooling system. Many more Im sure Im missing.

Youd get to 750+ whp with a pulley swap and switch to E85 on the 2013-2014 GT500s. Con (in my opinion) is the gearing in the trans and rear end. You're still looking at a price premium for these years. Factory replacement parts arent cheap if you can still find them (common Mustang parts excluded).

11-12 are a good bargain for what youre getting. Will need a blower swap to at least the 2.3L TVS to hit 750+. Right on the edge of what the rods can safely handle but its doable. I have an 11 and I called Mahle to the get the scoop on the pistons. 11-12 share the same pistons as the 2012 Cobra Jets. Their car guy to car guy advice was tear down to shorblock, inspect liners. If they look ok, replace the rods, balance rotating assembly and reassemble reusing the factory pistons and rings ( in the same bores they came out of) Now good to 1000 rwhp. Thats the plan Im going with my car, and Im ok with that decision based on personal experience doing engine work on Lexus cars.

Should you sleeve? Probably the safest route if going over a solid 800 RWHP. Your mileage may vary.

The 07-10 engines are pretty good. Block and crank are solid, but the rods and pistons are the weak link IMO. Excellent benefit is that the iron block can be easily honed to accept new pistons and rings or bored for larger displacement without the need for sleeving.

Wow, now that was a fantastic response thanks so much.

Through each section, other than gearing of the TR6060, it doesn't look like it changed very much between years, correct?

I went on MMR's website to see how pricing for their shortblocks looked, it seems like their 5.4L builds all use a "New cast Iron" block, even in their 1500hp option. You can switch to a 5.8L aluminum block for an additional $4k, or a sleeved 5.8 for $6.5k. But those are options, and their kit comes with Iron specifically, does that mean they have more confidence in the Iron shortblock?

My plan was to look for a car with a built engine already, so aftermarket rods/pistons/crank(if needed)/etc. I want a car built to handle more than it's making opposed to a car making 750 able to handle about 750-800. If that makes sense?

Forgot to mentioned --- What did you mean by factory replacement parts aren't cheap if you can still find them, in the 13-14 section?

Thanks so much again

SVTCobra60 · Jan 29, 2019

gimmie11s said:
They all make the same power with similar mods although the 13/14 cars might be 20-40 hp more once you are a max effort bolt on car.

Buy the lowest mile, 1 owner car you can find in your price range.

Building a motor for the 13/14 is extremely expensive compared to an iron motor car.... like 5x as expensive. Keep that in mind.

07-10 cars do not have factory wide bands and some tuners (Lund) will require you to add a WB before they tune you.

However, 07-10 cars are a Huge bargain right now.

I paid $29k for my 07 2 years ago for original owner with 6k miles. I was actually shopping for an 11-12 car but couldn’t pass up the deal.

I loved the 07 and would have another in a heartbeat.

Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

Thanks for the response! Why is the building of the engine become so much more expensive? Because of the bigger bore for the 5.8?

Is the 11/12 just as expensive when building the motor?

Wow that's quite the deal!

RedVenom48 · Jan 29, 2019

SVTCobra60 said:
Wow, now that was a fantastic response thanks so much.

Through each section, other than gearing of the TR6060, it doesn't look like it changed very much between years, correct?

I went on MMR's website to see how pricing for their shortblocks looked, it seems like their 5.4L builds all use a "New cast Iron" block, even in their 1500hp option. You can switch to a 5.8L aluminum block for an additional $4k, or a sleeved 5.8 for $6.5k. But those are options, and their kit comes with Iron specifically, does that mean they have more confidence in the Iron shortblock?

My plan was to look for a car with a built engine already, so aftermarket rods/pistons/crank(if needed)/etc. I want a car built to handle more than it's making opposed to a car making 750 able to handle about 750-800. If that makes sense?

Forgot to mentioned --- What did you mean by factory replacement parts aren't cheap if you can still find them, in the 13-14 section?

Thanks so much again

So with regard to the 13-14 parts, Its Trinity specific parts like the carbon fiber driveshaft, factory crankshaft, Recaro trim etc. are all either out of production or expensive now. You can find them with some searching but these Shelby specific items were only made for 2 production years (Recaro stuff for 3). Aftermarket performance rods/pistons/rings are more available now for the 5.8L than they were. There was a time that you had to buy a complete OEM piston assembly if you wanted piston rings. In general, the cost to build a 5.8 carries a bit more of a premium.

5.4L based stuff is more readily available as they can go into iron and aluminum blocks. However, many guys here that had 5.4 equipped cars have had built 5.8s installed in their cars and they love it. All depends on how much you want to spend.

With regard to the block material, I look at it from an ease of build ability standpoint. With an iron block, you carry and extra 100 lbs over the aluminum version. The upside is that boring and honing are much much easier, as well as replacement blocks being cheaper.

PM-Performance · Jan 29, 2019

When I was faced with this decision its really down to what you like.
13-14 if you want a stock fast car and dont plan to throw everything and the kitchen sink at it.
The rest, buy on what one looks best to you with the best options to suit your needs. On any of those cars, you are technically basically just a blower swap and fuel away from those numbers in the most simplistic form.
Personally I wanted an Iron block. I wanted less nannies so I went older. Its just new enough though that it feels like a HUGE step up from my built SN95

gimmie11s · Jan 29, 2019

The aluminum motors are just expensive... not sure why. Not worth it IMO.

If I could do it again, I'd do a 2010--new body style with the iron motor and build it to 850 or so HP. Would be a blast.

SVTCobra60 · Jan 29, 2019

lexustech48 said:
So with regard to the 13-14 parts, Its Trinity specific parts like the carbon fiber driveshaft, factory crankshaft, Recaro trim etc. are all either out of production or expensive now. You can find them with some searching but these Shelby specific items were only made for 2 production years (Recaro stuff for 3). Aftermarket performance rods/pistons/rings are more available now for the 5.8L than they were. There was a time that you had to buy a complete OEM piston assembly if you wanted piston rings. In general, the cost to build a 5.8 carries a bit more of a premium.

5.4L based stuff is more readily available as they can go into iron and aluminum blocks. However, many guys here that had 5.4 equipped cars have had built 5.8s installed in their cars and they love it. All depends on how much you want to spend.

With regard to the block material, I look at it from an ease of build ability standpoint. With an iron block, you carry and extra 100 lbs over the aluminum version. The upside is that boring and honing are much much easier, as well as replacement blocks being cheaper.

Gotcha thank you. So it’s not so much the engine / transmission parts that are much more expensive to build up; it’s all of the other stock components specific to 13/14 that become expensive when replacing.

For the guys who have switched to 5.8 in their cars, I assume most of them are sleeving the blocks correct? Also those keeping the 11-12 aluminum blocks are also sleeving when moving into bigger power?

Maybe that’s why MMR provides an iron block as standard in their packages, because it’s far easier to work with and stronger to start without sleeves.

Considering I’ll be buying a car built already, I’m mostly looking for advice on what to look for in other builds so I can ensure they were done right.

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SVTCobra60 · Jan 29, 2019

PM-Performance said:
When I was faced with this decision its really down to what you like.
13-14 if you want a stock fast car and dont plan to throw everything and the kitchen sink at it.
The rest, buy on what one looks best to you with the best options to suit your needs. On any of those cars, you are technically basically just a blower swap and fuel away from those numbers in the most simplistic form.
Personally I wanted an Iron block. I wanted less nannies so I went older. Its just new enough though that it feels like a HUGE step up from my built SN95

Ok that makes sense. I personally love how the 13-14 looks, but I assume if I got a 10-12 I’d be able to tail light swap and have it look identical ?

Yeah most of the big power cars I see are running a big KB blower 4.2 or 4.7 not positive what it was. And a built up tr6060. Very impressive starting platform on these cars

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SVTCobra60 · Jan 29, 2019

gimmie11s said:
The aluminum motors are just expensive... not sure why. Not worth it IMO.

If I could do it again, I'd do a 2010--new body style with the iron motor and build it to 850 or so HP. Would be a blast.

So even the 11-12 cars will be 5x more expensive to build? I’ve been browsing MMR’s website to get an idea on pricing. I assume where the aluminum becomes more expensive is if you reach 900-1000+ and sleeve the block to make it stronger.

I personally love how the 13-14 cars look, but it’s mostly due to the tail light change which I assume could be done on a 10-12 car.

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merkyworks · Jan 29, 2019

While the 11-12 (5.4) and 13-14 (5.8) blocks are both aluminum there are slight differences but the biggest reason an aluminum 5.4/5.8 build is so expensive is because of the aluminum block. Aluminum 5.4/5.8 blocks were only put in Ford GT's and GT500's. Ford only made so many of these castings and as far as I know Ford stopped making them, hence why a brand new aluminum block will run you about $4-5.5k . Even if you have a used but in good shape 5.4/5.8 aluminum block chances are you will have to install steel liners when rebuilding it, I think this runs about $3k.

On the other hand Ford has been putting iron 5.4 blocks in trucks and suvs for many many years, used inventory is very good. Also with an iron block you can just re-bore/hone and then start to rebuild. Basically more inventory and easier to work on, so less expensive.

Totalpkg · Jan 29, 2019

Klaus · Jan 29, 2019

SVTCobra60 said:
For the guys who have switched to 5.8 in their cars, I assume most of them are sleeving the blocks correct? Also those keeping the 11-12 aluminum blocks are also sleeving when moving into bigger power?

Maybe that’s why MMR provides an iron block as standard in their packages, because it’s far easier to work with and stronger to start without sleeves.

I went from 5.4 to 5.8. The reason for sleeving is that you cannot use new pistons with the spray on cylinder liners. I was doing full build and switching pistons and so had to sleeve. Since I was sleeving I punched it out to 5.8. I should note that these liners are super thin - my block only had 13k miles on it and the spray was pretty worn in two of my cylinders.

Did you discuss with MMR? When considering my motor build I discussed with both L&M and JDM. Neither will do mega HP builds with FE blocks. It is a misconception that the FE blocks are stronger than AL blocks. Here is a good discussion of this if you are interested:

Clearing Up Mod Motor Misconceptions With John Mihovetz

RedVenom48 · Jan 29, 2019

Klaus said:
I went from 5.4 to 5.8. The reason for sleeving is that you cannot use new pistons with the spray on cylinder liners. I was doing full build and switching pistons and so had to sleeve. Since I was sleeving I punched it out to 5.8. I should note that these liners are super thin - my block only had 13k miles on it and the spray was pretty worn in two of my cylinders.

Did you discuss with MMR? When considering my motor build I discussed with both L&M and JDM. Neither will do mega HP builds with FE blocks. It is a misconception that the FE blocks are stronger than AL blocks. Here is a good discussion of this if you are interested:

Clearing Up Mod Motor Misconceptions With John Mihovetz

Great article. John has pushed the Mod Motor far beyond what could have ever been imagined when the SVT and powertrain engineer's developed the DOHC Mod.

Catmonkey · Jan 29, 2019

SVTCobra60 said:
For the guys who have switched to 5.8 in their cars, I assume most of them are sleeving the blocks correct? Also those keeping the 11-12 aluminum blocks are also sleeving when moving into bigger power?

I just bought a new bare 5.8 block and had it built with good internals. Only difference between it and a 5.4 is it has provisions for the oil squirters (mine are blocked off) and have an extra hole in the deck for each cylinder for a tiny coolant passage that goes up to between the exhaust valves. I understand the earlier heads can be drilled for it, but I didn't go that route. The aluminum blocks have gone up a lot in price since I did mine (early 2013). I still have my 5.4 block in storage and if I ever did build it, I would install sleeves with the intent to punch it out to the 3.68" bore. The 5.8 had specific rods for the pistons in the 13-14, but most aftermarket pistons can use the earlier or later rods. No one makes a specific aftermarket 5.8 billet rod, but an additional machining operation could be performed to use factory 13-14 pistons. JDM sells a Manley rod in that configuration.

Now if you're going after big power with a lot of boost, the spacing between the cylinders on the larger bore may not be that desirable. But there are quite a few 4 digit hp cars running this configuration without any problems.

Personally, I have several 13-14 components that were just bolt ons, some of which bolted on easier than others. They are:

13-14 intercooler (more airflow)
13-14 intercooler pump (more volume)
13-14 front and rear brakes and rotors
13-14 clutch master cylinder (larger diameter bore)
13-14 transmission (different 1st and 2nd ratios)
13-14 driveshaft (had a DSS carbon fiber, but not compatible with the 13-14 transmission flange)
13-14 tail lights

Essentially anything else that has been replaced is aftermarket. That's a bit longer list. Someone has even figured out how to retrofit the 13-14 gauges and launch control features, and while the gauges would look cool, mine are functional, and I'm not overwhelmed by all the other features that would compel me to attempt that modification.

Klaus · Jan 29, 2019

lexustech48 said:
First, welcome to the GT500 section!

To answer your question, there can be many paths. If we define built as the entire package (engine mechanical and mods), it identifies what you have in store for you.

2007-2009: S197 Gen1 GT500 body style. 5.4L Iron block, Alum heads, Terminator camshafts. 500 hp. TR-6060 and gearing remain the same. Block and crank are good to over 1000, pistons and rods are about 700 rwhp safe (IMO). Pretty good but pushing it for safe power. Hydraulic p/s. Brembo 4 pots up front, S197 rear brakes. 3.55 Gears

2010: Hybrid year. 07-09 power train in S197 Gen 2 body. Crude knock sensor system installed. all other systems and parts carryover. 540 hp.

2011: First year of the Aluminum block for the GT500. 550 hp. 11-12 feature 5.4L displacement. Crank good to over 1200 hp, pistons developed by Mahle are same as in 2012 Cobra Jet are good to 1000 (confirmed multiple times calling Mahle Motorsports). 1st year for SVT Performance Pack (suspension upgrades, factory 3.73s and unique stripes). Brakes carry over. 1st year for Electric power steering. 11-12 fuel system control unique from 07-10.

The bad: 1st usage of PTWA (spray on) liners. Extremely tough but extremely thin. Honing typically required for new pistons/rings could cut through to Aluminum block. Sleeving on 2011-2012 builds recommended (more on this later).

2012: Carry over year. Options for car now include Recaro racing seats

2013-14: The Trinity. 662 hp from a 5.8L version of 4v Modular. Alum block with PTWA liners. Supercharger upgraded to 2.3L Eaton TVS. TR-6060 regeared for 200+ mph top speed. Rear gears 3.31 for 200 mph top speed. Carbon fiber drive shaft. Trans and differential coolers available. Electric performance shocks and struts by Bilstien. upgraded instrument cluster and track apps. Alum block and heads with many small upgrades over the 11-12, but basic architecture is the same. PTWA liners return, unique pistons, rings and rods. Now using Ford GT Supercar camshaft profiles. Upgraded charge air cooling system. Many more Im sure Im missing.

Youd get to 750+ whp with a pulley swap and switch to E85 on the 2013-2014 GT500s. Con (in my opinion) is the gearing in the trans and rear end. You're still looking at a price premium for these years. Factory replacement parts arent cheap if you can still find them (common Mustang parts excluded).

11-12 are a good bargain for what youre getting. Will need a blower swap to at least the 2.3L TVS to hit 750+. Right on the edge of what the rods can safely handle but its doable. I have an 11 and I called Mahle to the get the scoop on the pistons. 11-12 share the same pistons as the 2012 Cobra Jets. Their car guy to car guy advice was tear down to shorblock, inspect liners. If they look ok, replace the rods, balance rotating assembly and reassemble reusing the factory pistons and rings ( in the same bores they came out of) Now good to 1000 rwhp. Thats the plan Im going with my car, and Im ok with that decision based on personal experience doing engine work on Lexus cars.

Should you sleeve? Probably the safest route if going over a solid 800 RWHP. Your mileage may vary.

The 07-10 engines are pretty good. Block and crank are solid, but the rods and pistons are the weak link IMO. Excellent benefit is that the iron block can be easily honed to accept new pistons and rings or bored for larger displacement without the need for sleeving.

Great post, lexus know his shit. Would only add
1. glass roof only available >2011.
2. SVTPP only avail >11 also includes staggered wheel set up. Cannot forget the different shifter ball either

3. 13/14 track pack includes torsen rear end (SVTPP as well?)

IMHO, 13/14 if you are thinking of getting something to either keep stock or stick with bolt ons. First choice would be 11/12 if you are looking to build a monster. 7/8/9/10 if you are looking to build a monster on a budget (although no offense to owners of these I would probably go with a terminator first.....).

boduke0220 · Jan 29, 2019

If amenities don’t matter, get an 07-09, if you want Recaro seats and other “finer” things well a 2012 or newer is where you need to look

SVTCobra60 · Jan 30, 2019

Totalpkg said:

Great video thanks. Avoid bastard child LOL

Klaus said:
I went from 5.4 to 5.8. The reason for sleeving is that you cannot use new pistons with the spray on cylinder liners. I was doing full build and switching pistons and so had to sleeve. Since I was sleeving I punched it out to 5.8. I should note that these liners are super thin - my block only had 13k miles on it and the spray was pretty worn in two of my cylinders.

Did you discuss with MMR? When considering my motor build I discussed with both L&M and JDM. Neither will do mega HP builds with FE blocks. It is a misconception that the FE blocks are stronger than AL blocks. Here is a good discussion of this if you are interested:

Clearing Up Mod Motor Misconceptions With John Mihovetz

I haven't gotten a response back from MMR yet. What was the reason for punching/boring it out more? Wouldn't the decreased wall thickness make the block a bit weaker under big power conditions?

I am not quite sure what FE stands for, I assume AL is aluminum lol.

Fantastic article thanks for that, is the 5.4 cobra jet block the same as the 11-12 GT500?

Catmonkey said:
I just bought a new bare 5.8 block and had it built with good internals. Only difference between it and a 5.4 is it has provisions for the oil squirters (mine are blocked off) and have an extra hole in the deck for each cylinder for a tiny coolant passage that goes up to between the exhaust valves. I understand the earlier heads can be drilled for it, but I didn't go that route. The aluminum blocks have gone up a lot in price since I did mine (early 2013). I still have my 5.4 block in storage and if I ever did build it, I would install sleeves with the intent to punch it out to the 3.68" bore. The 5.8 had specific rods for the pistons in the 13-14, but most aftermarket pistons can use the earlier or later rods. No one makes a specific aftermarket 5.8 billet rod, but an additional machining operation could be performed to use factory 13-14 pistons. JDM sells a Manley rod in that configuration.

Now if you're going after big power with a lot of boost, the spacing between the cylinders on the larger bore may not be that desirable. But there are quite a few 4 digit hp cars running this configuration without any problems.

Personally, I have several 13-14 components that were just bolt ons, some of which bolted on easier than others. They are:

13-14 intercooler (more airflow)

13-14 intercooler pump (more volume)

13-14 front and rear brakes and rotors

13-14 clutch master cylinder (larger diameter bore)

13-14 transmission (different 1st and 2nd ratios)

13-14 driveshaft (had a DSS carbon fiber, but not compatible with the 13-14 transmission flange)

13-14 tail lights

Essentially anything else that has been replaced is aftermarket. That's a bit longer list. Someone has even figured out how to retrofit the 13-14 gauges and launch control features, and while the gauges would look cool, mine are functional, and I'm not overwhelmed by all the other features that would compel me to attempt that modification.

Thanks so much for all of the info!

Did you sleeve the 5.8 block your purchased? And I assume you got aftermarket rods/pistons?

Why would you punch out your 5.4 to a larger bore? A few sentences later you mention boring the block could be a bad idea for big power applications (unless you would bore it out to 3.68 and aim for a conservative power level?)

I very much love the 13-14 tail lights, would definitely want that done if I got an 11-12 car. Nice to know of the other interchangeable "bolt on" parts!

Klaus said:
Great post, lexus know his shit. Would only add
1. glass roof only available >2011.
2. SVTPP only avail >11 also includes staggered wheel set up. Cannot forget the different shifter ball either
3. 13/14 track pack includes torsen rear end (SVTPP as well?)

IMHO, 13/14 if you are thinking of getting something to either keep stock or stick with bolt ons. First choice would be 11/12 if you are looking to build a monster. 7/8/9/10 if you are looking to build a monster on a budget (although no offense to owners of these I would probably go with a terminator first.....).

Based on that, sounds like the 11/12 would be best. Would you also recommend a sleeved block if wanting a "monster" haha

Which GT500 Is Best For Me? 07-09 / 10 / 11-12 / 13-14

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Let's go Brandon!

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Let's go Brandon!

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I Race Pontiacs

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Let's go Brandon!

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